Silverado :: 1989 - Sputtering On Acceleration?
Mar 18, 2014
I have a 89 chevy silverado with 380000 miles. It has the 5.7, 350 engine, 2 wheel drive , automatic. The past few days I've noticed when the engine is cold , the engine starts sputtering on acceleration. If I ease off the gas and let it accelerate slowly it seems to be okay. Once the engine is warms the problem is not present. I haven't checked anything as of yet but wanted to get some input so I'm not chasing and replacing things for no reason. I did a complete tune up about 7000 miles ago. Cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and pvc valve, EGR valve, coil and fuel pump( only becasue my float has been sticking for years). I run the K&N air filter and I just cleaned it last month.
I did notice one item the past few months. When I open the passenger door after I get done driving I can smell gas. I thought it problably coming from the engine compartment air intake since it feeds from the passenger side.
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I hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
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Our '93 Escort, Gilligan, (1.pL, 125K, manual and under our ownership for less than 6 months) has recently developed the shameful habit of chugging and glugging during acceleration, most specifically second and third gears, with the occasional hiccups at cruising speeds. If Gil is driven a little "harder" then there is little issue with sputtering, but then we are killing our MPG and beating the crud out of his motor. Using a careful foot there are better "zones" that can be found via the accelerator than others, but no "safe zone".
He has had several bottles of fuel injector cleaner, new spark plugs (the wires looked fairly new and clean), fuel filter and a replacement ignition coil pack, so these have been ruled out. I thought it might be the Mass Air Flow Sensor, so I drove him around with it unplugged, but that made no difference. If there is a clog in a injector is it possible to "flush" it out or would he require a more in depth cleaning?
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I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.
About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
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I have a 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3L V-8, 351,000 (yes that is correct) miles. Runs great except it has recently developed a stutter, hesitation, skip, I don't really know how to describe it, under acceleration or at steady speed. This is an intermittent problem and it is driving me batty. The only codes are a P0420, maybe after 350k miles it needs replaced? Would that possibly cause this issue, or am I looking at something more sinister?
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2000 Ls V6, 145,000 miles, Ok the other morning I start up, and sitting waitng for it to idle down, when it does it starts to sputter like its gonna die, so I hit the gas kinda rev it up a bit, and it's fine, it drives fine with no problems, however I was sitting in it today and reved it up at around 3,000 rpms it starts to sputter, but I punched it on the way home and no problems, put it back in park and reved it up and it did it again around 3,000 rpms.
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I have a 2007 camry xle v6. Ihad some sputtering in car and check engine with "check vsc" came on. Autozone free codes said misfires detected in cylinder 3 and 4,and a code about ignition coils.. Had a freelance mechanic change the parts and said best was to change all coils, but I couldn't buy all,especially after seeing price.. So I only changed for 3 and 4 as well.... got car back... drove to work, ran good I'd say.... but steering wheel was jiggling as well.... I thought it was just some wheel/tire associated thing..... parked later on and car is sputtering now.. almost like every 1.5 seconds...what to do ? aside from taking back to mechanic, which ill do...
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 151.000 miles ( first owner) ... Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold ).... Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off. button after this sputtering always goes away.
I checked spark plugs they look clean, I changed PCV valve, oxygen sensors, I clean mass air flow sensor, new throttle body was installed 2 years ago, new catalytic converter a year ago. There are no OBD codes ...
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I know 12 is normal 24 is speed sensor so I ran out and ordered one but no clue where to find it on the car.
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I have a 1989 Chevy C1500 w/ 350, T.B.I, Automatic Trans, Mileage = High, that keeps throwing the Trouble Code 13.
I can crank the truck and drive it and it runs great BUT as soon as the engine gets warm(5 -10 miles) the Check Engine Light comes on and I can tell a noticeable difference in power (loss). I have to press a little more on the gas pedal to maintain my current speed. As you know a Code 13 indicates a faulty O2 Sensor, I replaced it with NO LUCK.
Could I have bought a faulty O2 Sensor? I checked the voltage of the wire coming from the ecm with the switch in the on (not running) position and I got a voltage of 1.5volts. All this started all of a sudden after I done a complete tune-up on the engine.
New Plugs,Wires,Cap,Button,PCV,Air Filter,Oil and Filter, New Thermostat and Gasket.
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I own a 1989 Chevy Horizon Camper Van, a "camper" on a 1989 Chevy chassis, the "van part" of the camper is just like a normal 1989 Chevy G20 Automatic Van. About 2 weeks ago it started to "bog" down while accelerating, meaning it feels like the van is running out of gas although it is defiantly not out of gas. Also I put a new battery in two days ago because I had been having starting problems and somewhat hoping this would cure the other problems. It did not cure the problems and although I have not had to get a jump, the van is starting hard and the battery indicator on the dash is in between the dead line and the middle line. I also put in two cans of "Sea Foam" thinking there might be condensation in the gas line.
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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Im looking to upgrade my radio and speaker system in my car but I do not want to lose my steering wheel controls.
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I have '88 Isuzu Trooper that has been sputtering lately. I'll be driving for a while then all of a sudden, it will start sputtering, lose all power and die. When I try to restart it, it will go immediately back to sputtering/dying mode. It's done it 3 times now. The first time, I waited about 20-30 minutes and was able to drive it for 5 minutes before the problem happened again. After waiting ~1 hour it started just fine and drove fine. The car drove fine for a few weeks then the same thing happened.... again, after waiting a few hours, it drove fine. I didn't have the problem again for a year and just happened again last night.
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I have a 92 gmc with a standard transmission that is backfiring and sputtering after it has been running for a while. I have noticed that on longer trips, 30+ miles, the truck backfires when i go to accelerate on the highway. Also, after it has been running a while, I will stop at a light, When I go to accelerate, It backfires and tries to stall but wont. I have to turn the key off and wait for the truck to shut off.
Once it shuts off, I will restart it and then it runs normal till the next light.. I have replaced the plugs recently, thinking that it was a misfire problem. All the plugs looked normal. None were dirtier than the rest. It only does this after it has been running for a long distance. If it is cold, it does not have a problem. I have also tried seafoam in the tank and direct into the carb. I am at a loss? the temp gauge never gets hot?
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Back in January I drove my excursion about 1 1/2 hours or so and my tank had about 1/4 left. I shut it off and went to start it about 15 min. later. It did start but was sputtering. I shut it off and it started back up and ran fine. Drove another 1/2 hour... Shut it off, went to start I and it would only crank. Sounds like it isn't getting fuel. I also tried pressing he gas pedal thinking maybe a faulty IAC but that didn't work. I waited 1/2 hour and it started an ran fine. has not done it since... Always had more than 1/4 tank left.
This past weekend drove to the same place pulling my trailer. No issues at all. Coming home I live at the top of a big hill. My tank was at 1/4. Backed the trailer in and unhooked. Shut the ex down and walked away for 15 min or so. Went to put it in the garage and it started and sputtered, it did clear up after a few seconds and idled fine. I then shut it off. Tried to start it again and it would only crank. Waited a few min. and it started and ran fine. Does this sound like the fuel pump giving out?
- I have a scan gauge a checked for codes.... Nothing
- Garage kept hardly sees rain.
- Just over 95 k miles
- Only other thing is both times this happened it had sea foam in the tank
Napa says that bosch is the OEM pump. Is there a difference between motorcraft and the Bosch? Is one better? Could this also be a symptom of a crank sensor going bad or a cam sensor.
Took it in to my local mechanic that also has a v10 excursion. He hooked up fuel gauges and a computer to monitor the engine and codes while driving. He said everything is well with in the range of the specs. He will drive I for a coupl days to see if he can reproduce the issue. Where do I go from here with out just guessing what's wrong?
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I have a 89 chevy 1500, 5.7 pick up. I beleive it's referred to as the c/k series.
Recently I've been having some issues with stalling. When the engine is cold everything runs fine but after warm up I've noticed the problem start occurring.
When I'm doing a slow turn ( any direction) , backing up, or in stop and go traffic, the truck want to stall when I touch the gas pedal. Once I get past the intial slight throttle it picks up and does fine.
I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and even the fuel pump( mainly because it never gauged fuel correctly but I thought it might have a pressure issue).
Nothing seems to work and I'm not getting any codes.
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