Sierra :: Third Door Won't Open - Where Is Latching Mechanism
Feb 1, 2012
97 extended cab -three door, The third door for rear access just clicked and something inside snapped loose. Now it won't release and open.
Where do I start to get into the latching mechanism?
will the upholstery come off while closed?
Do I drill the two rivets at the handle to get into it and open it?
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Does the latching mechanism on hatch have a little play in it or is it tight. I would like to get some info before I tear into the hatch trim to see if it needs to be tightened up a bit.
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My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
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1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
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I just bought a 2001 f150 supercrew. I was told that the locking mechanism didn't work right so I took off the door panel. I can tell when using the power locks that the actuator is weak and probably needs replacing. I also noticed that there is not cable or rod going to the actual door lock, that is to say where you put the key in the door to unlock or lock the door. Need a picture of what this locking system should look like? I assume that for some reason I am missing the rod that goes from the actuator to the door lock. And I can't just look at the passenger side because it is the same way.
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Can I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
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I have a 2008 extended cab gmc, I noticed the top of the front door sinks in more than the back when the doors are closed. They are not aligned flush, can I adjust the doors to have the same gap and be flush? did someone adjust the door that way for wind noise maybe?
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Outside door mirrors that fail to retract? Seem the one on the driver's door does okay but not the passenger door mirror. I guess the motor is bad or possibly the activation switch on the driver door.
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My last issue is resolved and the next day my door handle broke, so I purchased a new replacement put it in, and now my drivers door power lock wont work. I can see it twitching but not going fully either way. the passenger side works fine however. it still works if I di it manually but I have keyless so that's a annoying hassle!!!
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My sister has a 2003 gmc sierra and the 12 way body plug in the fuse panel inside drivers door on dash isn't getting power. Where that section of fuse box gets power from? The rest works its just the 12 plug???
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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Now that I have the audio upgraded in my LS, we have uncovered a slight issue with the drivers rear door. The installers will work with me, but I thought there is so much knowledge up here, why not ask.
Everything else on the vehicle works perfect, its just this one door as if all the power is off or disconnected.(ACC or ON power it functions fine) I have checked the fuses under the driver side and the ones in the trunk, they are all fine and we took the front driver door apart to make sure any connections were good. everything seems secure, we even looked over the ECU in the door to make sure it didn't seem fried or anything, all functions on front and passenger doors are perfect.
Here are the symptoms: passenger rear door light wont come on with the door open unless the ACC is on. the other 3 turn on, with or without ACC.
The door lock actuator from the outside on this door wont lock the doors or with the sensing when you approach with the fob and grab the handle (as in the lights there wont light up).
The door closer that finishes off the door being slightly open wont grab and pull it in.
The trunk lights wont come on and there is no fuse or connection issue we can see. Its puzzling.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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I am trying to keep driving my Astro until I pay off my wife's new car. Repairing the door shouldn't be a problem if I could get the door open to remove the inside door panel. How to get the door open? Can't use the inside or outside handle now.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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