I want to level the front of my truck. 1999 GMC Serria 2500 4x4. Wondering what is involved. Do the cams on the torsion bars need to be released and rotated or can I just turn the bolts in?
View 2 RepliesJust wondered if can use a floor jack to lift a vehicle but jacked directly on the torsion bar? Or let the vehicle rest on the torsion bar on a jackstand?
I have done this a few times with different vehicles and I guess didn't really think hard about it damaging anything, but was curious...
what does the front and rear sway bars do? how about the front lower tie bars? are they worth getting? i saw them on sale and i wasn't sure exactly what they did.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Ranger that I adjusted the torsion bar so the front end sits level. My dad has a 2007 F150 XLT that doesnt appear to have a torsion bar. I am looking at trading for a 2010-2012 F150. What year did the F150's stop having torsion bars? Do ALL F150's not have them or does it vary by trim package? If I were to buy a 2010-2012 F150, what would I have to do to make the truck sit level (raise the front end)?
View 8 RepliesI wanted to put bigger tires on my truck, something more agressive. Is there a torsion bar? Can it be adjusted? How? If not what is the biggest tire i can put on with my stock 17" rims? 2wd 2005 f150...
View 2 RepliesI'm not too familiar with the difference between lift kits and leveling kits. I want to lift my truck 2" but in doing research do i need get a lift kit and a leveling kit? For the front and the back? I have a 2006 F150 4.6 V8 RWD I also haven't been able to find any good places to but the kits (also because I don't know what all i may need) It would be ideal to get a kit i can bolt on myself.
View 1 RepliesPrevious owner of my truck installed a front leveling kit (2" aluminum shims under the coil spring seats) and was told by a dealer that it definitely lead to the wear and tear on the front end, specifically the track bar and track bar ball joints. They also stated it causing the truck to still pull to the left even when aligned because the geometry was off. My truck has 56k miles on it.
I was informed of this after months of trying to correct the death wobble. After 4 alignments at NTB, I took it to the dealer for diagnoses. I paid them to do the labor of replacing the track bar, but elected to remove the leveling spacers myself. Came out in about 45 mins, but had to purchase the shorter stock seat bolt from the dealer which was only available as a package with the coil spring seat...
Truck now rides better and seems perfectly aligned, before it pulled hard to the left. Wish I would have known about this earlier...
Had a Gen 2 years ago, first time with a Gen 3. Specs: 2011 Prius Two, not II, CPO'd with 83k miles. I've been experiencing this phenomenon for the past couple of days. I would park the car with 6 or 7 bars, but after 8-10 hours of parking it would power up with only 2 bars, or it would power up with 4-5 bars and quickly go down to 2 cars before it charges back up to 6-7 bars. I called the dealer and the SA tells me it's normal. I know for a fact my Gen 2 didn't and my TCH didn't. So is this something I should be concerned about or is this normal for the Gen 3?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2002 F250 Regular cab long bed 2wd. I'm tired of the front end sagging so low, so I've been looking into a leveling kit. I was wondering whether I should go with 2" or 1.5" for the kit. I tow about 2000 lbs. 3-4 days a week and do not want the truck to look like it is squatting too badly. However, I really would like it too look more level.
View 8 RepliesA friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
I have a 2008 extended cab gmc, I noticed the top of the front door sinks in more than the back when the doors are closed. They are not aligned flush, can I adjust the doors to have the same gap and be flush? did someone adjust the door that way for wind noise maybe?
View 2 RepliesConcerning my recently purchased '99 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 4.8L...
There is a seemingly undiagnosable, not that noticeable, rubbing noise that seems to come from the front passenger wheel - one rub for every revolution of the wheel. It is fairly subtle and can be felt (subtle) in the steering wheel between 30mph and 45mph. I don't think a lot of people would notice it and anyone that did would probably just turn up the radio at this point. After all, this truck has a very solid drive train and runs amazingly smooth for its age and mileage (172K)
Here are the repairs I have made that you might be about to suggest:- New front bearing/ hub assemblies on both sides within the last year. No play in any of the wheels.- New tires from Firestone within last month.- New tie rod ends and alignment. - New rotors, pads, and flex lines on front. Refurbished caliper on passenger side front.- New pads, calipers, and flex lines on rear. (one of the calipers had seized and I thought I had finally found the problem... not.) (one of the flex lines was the wrong part and was rubbing up against the rim... I thought that was the problem... not.)
Here are the things you are about to suggest I check:- Transmission, rear axle bearings, etc checked out by my trusted transmission shop. - Wheel well shields are firmly attached.
Things I haven't yet fixed : tail pipe bracket, evap emission solenoid assembly, blower fan resistor thingy, crappy door latch.
I have a 1997 GMC Sierra. I had a turn signal out in the front driver side. the old bulb was rusted out so i had to remove it with needle nose pliers. replaced bulb, and now i have absolutely no turn signals at all. not even the clicking noise or the turn signal illuminator in dash. I have since replaced the turn signal relay, but that was no luck.
View 2 Replies99 F-150 4x4. Any tips to get these rusty things separated from their homes? I've got the torsion keys unloaded and loose and the cross member loose. They will not budge. Aside from getting a bigger hammer and abusing the cross member till something gives. I don't like using the torch on heat treated components....
View 14 Replies1984 K2500 4WD 8-lug
Front DS wheel hub. The front wheel bearing nuts come loose all the time. I have to check it every weekend, usually starts to get loose after a week and I have to pull apart the hub and re-tighten the nuts. Bearings are all okay, but tires wobble when they get loose...
Reverse order of install: nut -> keyed washer -> nut -> washer -> snap ring -> 4wd auto engaging assembly -> spring seat -> cap seal -> spring -> cap
My understanding is the deepest nut gets adjusted so that the bearing is tight enough that nothing wobbles but not so tight the wheel can't freely spin. Then the keyed spacer goes in and the second nut is tightened down hard to lock the first nut in position.
I've had on-and-off issues with the front DS in general as well. That side the brake caliper always start to suck in air after a few months, on #4 now. Brake system has been replaced with rebuilt MC & calipers, all new lines and warning switch. Also the 4WD doesn't seem to lock in on that hub every time. It will engage, but doesn't hold if it gets too much torque. Then other times it engages and locks and won't have any problems until next time I want to use it. It works about 70% of the time. I've taken it apart and checked everything, no burrs or wear that I've noticed to cause it.
I have a 1988 gmc c2500 with brake problems. the front brakes keep locking up both sides. Have replaced the calipers rotors pads and the brake lines. I can bleed them off and they release but has soon has you it the brakes they lock up again.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 gmc sierra, 4x4, 1/2 ton, has 155,000 miles on it. I recently changed both front hubs on my truck. They didn't have any play in them just noise. I had one new front hub that was leaking grease out of the rear seal. I took that one back off and got a new one. Must have had a bad rear seal. Now I'm getting a front end vibration at highway speeds. Between 70-75mph. It gets worse when turning left when highway turns. It goes completely away when turning right at highway speeds. It doesn't shake in the steering wheel. Feels like its coming from the left front area or left front tire. More in the floor boards. So i rotated my tires, and its not as bad but still is there in the same spot. I've checked everything.
Cv axles have no tears in the boots and aren't spinning out any grease. I turn the steering back and fourth while the truck was on the ground and I didn't notice any play in any of the front end components. The only thing I did notice was the passenger side inner tie rod boot had a bunch of grease built up on it. But the boot was actually full. Could one of the bad wheel bearings caused something else to go bad? Warped rotor? Truck doesn't shake or vibrate when braking either.
I have a 2016 SRW Long bed Super Duty that is close to warranty expiration. Recently, I've started hearing noise from the back door rubber weatherstripping when there is torsion force from uneven chassis pressure (like going over a speed bump at an angle, one wheel at a time).
My previous truck was a 2001 F-250 short bed and I had no such rubbing noise with it for 250K miles, at least after they replaced the cab mounts.
Is this normal for a long bed?
It also feels like the front-end is loose when I hit a bump at high speed - it sort of rattles around before settling back down.
And, the dealer has never been able to duplicate my problem where the front left or right wheel makes noise while going around a corner while braking - sounds like a brief engagement of the anti-lock brake system.
I doubt the symptoms are related but I'll toss them all out there for you opinions. I doubt the dealership will be able to duplicate the cab noise - maybe I should drive it for them.
Because the F-350 is under warrantee I haven't worked on it myself or done any mods yet. This has been a fantastic vehicle otherwise.
2000 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0L gas engine 150K miles. After returning home from a 150 mile drive, I notice a very heavy sound of marbles banging around near the front of the engine at idle. The noise is a much like heavy detonation where timing is badly off kilter. Used my stethoscope to determine this is loudest at the water pump housing. The belt runs smoothly with no sign of unusual resistance. The engine does not overheat, and there is no sign of a coolant leak.Can a bad water pump shaft bearing make such a tremendous "cackling" noise? What else could it be?
View 8 RepliesI just got my IS350 F-sport which equipped with HID headlight for few days, but I have encountered a weird problem as every time I start the car the HID headlight never does a self-leveling job. It just never goes up and down and back to its original spot in which I have never encountered in my previous owned vehicles.
View 14 RepliesI had read that the auto leveling only works when you first turn on the lights. But, I have caught mine doing it in traffic. When I come to a stop behind a car, a second after the front end bounces back, I notice the beams dip down half of an inch, on the car in front of me. I have seen this a few times. Seems the auto level feature is always at work. Is this new for 2012?
View 5 Replies