Sierra :: Getting Hot When Putting In Gear / Gets Over Half Way Mark In Just A Couple Minutes
Jul 12, 2011
I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
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Over the past approx 3 weeks Ive noticed that my gas gauge stops at about the mark half way between 3/4s and full now. Previously when I would fill the tank it would go about 1 click beyond full. Today,with the needle damn near on empty I filled up and it only took 9.13 gallons. During this same time span I am only avg approx 17mpg where prior i was getting over 23/24 mpg.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 motor. I have cold heat but it will still defrost windows the temp gauge stays around the 1/2 way mark.
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The temperature gauge continues to go above the half way mark. Yesterday it was 88 here and I ran the a.c.. The gauge got a little over the second white mark from the top. I don't know if this is normal, I have taken it to a mechanic twice and he said I had nothing to worry about.
I am just used to the gauge staying right in the middle, and this one does not do that. The fan that cools the engine is almost always on as well. This is another thing that leads me to think there is a problem.
Would you mind telling me if your 430 gauge moves around like mine? I have to get something done before I hurt the engine?
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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Just installed a new jvc kd-s48 stereo and it cuts out for a half a second every couple seconds. Kind of like a scratched cd but it's with the tuner and mp3. The sound "stumbles" and then it very quickly raises back up. it sort of seems like if I wiggle the wires in the back it'll stop. I will check all connections, I use female and male spade connectors and then shrink wrap over each connection. Could it be a faulty deck?
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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BMW 325xi... When I turn on the car the symbol is not there, it only appears after I put the car into gear. Whether that is reverse or drive. I went to an auto parts store and the codes that came up were a lot, I'm not sure they are all referring to the symbol. Any tips on what could be wrong with it?
-P1345-P0300-P0313-P1353-P1347-P1351-P1349-P1083-P0313-P1085-P1343-P0171-P0174
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I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe about 4 months ago. 45k miles. The TPMS work nice. I had a tire start getting low and it told me which one.
But every once in a while the other light, just the TPMS light comes on for a couple minutes and then goes off. The manual says if this light comes on than something with TPMS is malfunctioning. But it doesn't stay on constantly.
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1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
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I turned on the car today and about a couple minutes into my drive I noticed the airbag light was on. I pulled over, turned off the car, then turned it back on. The light came on with the rest of the warning lights, turned off when they all turned off, and then came back on a couple seconds later and stayed on. The car has just been sitting in my driveway. Only thing worth noting was that last night, while walking past the car, I noticed I had left one of the windows open. Also noticed my glovebox was open since I had gotten something out of it earlier in the day but forgot to close it. I turned the ignition half way to just use the battery to close the window (without turning the car on) and went to bed.
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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I'm having a very strange problem with my 2011 Prius.
About two and a half hours ago, I drove home and parked my Prius for the night. About an hour after I parked, my Prius started beeping, three short beeps, every couple of munutes. It's now been doing this for over 90 minutes. Because I can hear it from the house, it is very, very, very annoying.
I have checked all of the doors, and also took the car out for a quick spin around the block, in hopes of getting the beeping to stop. No luck. It keeps beep-beep-beeping every few minutes.
It has been unusually cold here the past couple of days, in case that has anything to do with it. That being said, it was a good 10-15 degrees colder yesterday, yet the car wasn't having this problem. It only started this evening.
My question is, what in the world could be causing this beeping? Is there any way to stop it?
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I have a 2008 Miata that is new to me (<40K miles). When I first drive it in the morning it has a very noticeable bumping feel for the first couple of minutes then smooths out and is not noticeable for the rest of the day, even if I park it for a couple of hours. I believe the bumping is coming from the rear driver's side. I just replaced the tires (thinking they were flat spotted), but the problem persists.
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This happened several times on my way home today.
Car: 2013 Prius v Three
Symptom: Bluetooth connects and works but then stops after a couple minutes. The Bluetooth Settings screen indicates "Bluetooth Off" at this point but will not turn back on if I press the button that should toggle it. All other options on the settings screen are dimmed out.
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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My 2009 silverado ltz is haveing heating issues. when you first start truck all work fine. After a couple min the drivers side vents loose heat and blows cold air. the heat on the pass side works fine. then the vent will change to defrost even though the display still shows its on vent. the only way to get it back is to mess with the vent control. then it will last about a min then back to defrost. at this point i just turn it off. I have already replaced the control panel to no avail ...
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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I need to get my oil cooler replaced but that's besides the fact. I drove it on a little trip the other night ran fine. Then went to start it after i was done with what i was doing turned it over didn't start the first time. Cycled the key and cranked it again. Started up drove it back home on the high way no spitting or sputters got off the high way it started idling like crap and shaking as i accelerated but made it home. Let it sit over night and day (was at work) got home to start it and it fired up no problem but still idled funny.
Revved it a couple times and it seemed to clear up so i took it around the block. Floored it and it ran like it was suppose to then go to the other side of the block floored it again and it had no power and sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders. Pulled it back in the driveway idled weird and cleared up again went down the street and floored it ran like a scaled ape and then just died. tried cranking it over and nothing finally got it to start after holding the ignition on ran and then died again. Got it pushed home and decided to fire again after a VERY long crank and it idled for a couple minutes very horrible and died on its own and hasn't started since.
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My 06 was parked about 2 months and when I first started the truck, the CEL light came on. It idles a couple of minutes and shuts off. It was running very well before it was parked. I put a code reader and the codes are P0607 and P2107.
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I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
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