Sierra :: Low Speed ABS Pulsing / Grease Between Lobes On Reluctor Ring In Hub
Aug 25, 2012
My wife has a Sierra 1500 2WD 6cyl that is doing the low speed ABS pulsing. I read this forum and performed the sensor cleaning as described in the TSB from GM. The problem did not go away, so I pulled the ABS fuse for now. When I was cleaning the sensors - which were covered with crap - I noticed a lot of grease between the lobes on the reluctor ring in the hub. I cleaned it as best I could, but I could not get all of it. My question is - should there be any grease visible on that ring at all? If not, then do I need to replace the hubs? If some grease is ok, then I guess I will do a voltage check on each sensor, but I don't want to change the sensors if they are just going to get dirty again. The problem is on both sides.
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My abs light is coming on and off. It turns out the ABS ring on the right hand side has some damage on some of the teeth. Is it possible to just replace the ring? and how hard of a job is it? I tried searching and could not find anything on this part.
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I have a 2006 gmc sierra, 4x4, 1/2 ton, has 155,000 miles on it. I recently changed both front hubs on my truck. They didn't have any play in them just noise. I had one new front hub that was leaking grease out of the rear seal. I took that one back off and got a new one. Must have had a bad rear seal. Now I'm getting a front end vibration at highway speeds. Between 70-75mph. It gets worse when turning left when highway turns. It goes completely away when turning right at highway speeds. It doesn't shake in the steering wheel. Feels like its coming from the left front area or left front tire. More in the floor boards. So i rotated my tires, and its not as bad but still is there in the same spot. I've checked everything.
Cv axles have no tears in the boots and aren't spinning out any grease. I turn the steering back and fourth while the truck was on the ground and I didn't notice any play in any of the front end components. The only thing I did notice was the passenger side inner tie rod boot had a bunch of grease built up on it. But the boot was actually full. Could one of the bad wheel bearings caused something else to go bad? Warped rotor? Truck doesn't shake or vibrate when braking either.
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When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
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When coming to a full stop, there is a growling/grinding sound from beneath the floor behind the brake pedal and I can feel the growling./grinding in the pedal as well. Used to happen occasionally, now is happening more often than not. When the Service ABS System/Service Traction System message is displayed (occasionally) on the message center, the growling/grinding doesn't occur and the brakes work. Like normal. When I turn the car off and restart it, the messages are no longer displayed and the growling/grinding sound and feel returns.
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Ever since the day I bought the car, it has had a highway speed pulsing vibration. This vibration manifests once you cross about 90kph, and pulses like a sine wave.
Think of it like this - OOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOO - where big O's are vibration and little o's are absence of vibration.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced several times on various machines over the years in attempts to rid myself of it. The original owner had theorized that the car was so heavy and had sat on its aftermarket rims in one spot for so long that the wheels had bent, which does not appear to be the case. The dealer has experienced the symptoms but cannot find a cause...though I fear they are less knowledgeable about the car than I am. I note that several people on the forum have had vibration issues due to drive shaft bushing failures...but in skimming the relevant threads, none of those people characterized it as a pulsation OR a constant issue that I saw.
I wouldn't say the pulsing was fast...think 4-5 seconds of vibration and then 4-5 seconds of peace.
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Some of you might remember I've pondered here before about the strange pulsing that occurs on my steering (on the V10) when maneuvering at low speed. It's always done it. Well, for the 18 months and 15k miles I've had the car.
Nobody (including Phaeton technicians) who have heard it/felt it have had any useful advice or insight (save offering to take the engine out to check on various bits).
I had always assumed that it was something like the load when the car is being parked etc was sufficient such that some relief valve was lifting momentarily and repeatedly. However I've come to realize that it is not just the slow vehicle speed, but engine speed too. Of course, nearly all parking maneuvering is done at tick over. But if I raise the revs just a little, the phenomenon seems to go away. Not easy to isolate maneuvering speed from engine speed... which is why I'd not really noticed before.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus and have been having a problem with the brakes. When I hit the brakes at any speed there is a feeling of pulsing as I slow down. It is proportional to the speed I am going. It feels like there is an unevenness to the rotor or brake drum that makes one spot on either of those hit the brake pad/shoe more severely than the rest of the pad/shoe and thus I slow down more during that one spot. Maybe the best way to describe the feeling is like this: While the brake pedal is pressed down it feels like I am slowly pulsing the pedal even though the pedal is steadily pressed down. This pulsing feeling slows down as I slow down until I stop. What might cause this?
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I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
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I have a problem with the front rotors on my '01 Impala warping. The pulsing is really bad when decelerating from highway speed. They will last maybe a month after installing before they start to warp again. I purchase my parts at the local NAPA store. Is there something I could be doing wrong during installation or it bad parts (cheap material)?. Could it be an issue with other front end components?. The car has 173,000 miles on it.
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2006 GMC Sierra 1500 crew cab 4x4. Bought it with a 3 inch body lift. 2 years ago I put on a 3 inch suspension lift (blocks in the rear and torsion keys in front). Tires were getting worn out and truck had a hop to it, so brand new tires (33's) 4,000 miles ago.
Since putting on new tires I have replaced:
-both front rotors (they were warped)
-front brake pads
-pitman arm
-idler arm
Still have the hop. Cant feel it in the steering wheel and very little in the seat. Mostly in the floor boards. Hop starts at 50 mph and stops at 70 mph.
Front end is stiff since putting on new torsion keys in front.
Have had new tires rotated once and balanced twice with no change.
I know my rear shocks are shot and my front shocks are almost done.
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra z71 has 159,000 miles on it. I've already changed the front hub bearings and the tires are brand new. Brakes are in good shape as well. I also had someone check the front differential bearings too. Said the front diff was good. The noise starts at about 50-55 and keeps getting louder with speed. The noise is similar to a hub bearing noise. When you let off the throttle the noise is more pronounced then when on the throttle. I'm thinking it's te cv axles. The cv boots don't have any tears in them and I have no clicking noise. But I've also heard that cv axles can make this noise. Also the noise seems to change when I hit bumps. that's also why I'm thinking cv axles. Because cv axles are the only thing that move with the suspension and also rotate.
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This truck has 180km on it and runs fine except as of lately i have developed a surge while at constant speed. When i step on the gas it does not seem to happen.....it only happens when I reach a constant speed. The odd time it will surge at idle and the engine will rev up and down on its own also. When at highway speed it seems to not do this. The truck never dies completely....just surges slightly.
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My 1998 GMC Sierra K1500 has developed an intermittent high speed miss. I doesn't miss while idling but with no apparent regularity it will jerk as though the engine lost power for just a moment. I just replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the plugs and plug wires appear to be fairly new (I bought the truck last May). The truck has about 213,000 miles on it.
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I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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We have had a 2007 Camry & now a 2007 BMW, both of which get grease stains on the area under both front doors. It is not on the door or anywhere else. Just in the 6 inch or so high area under each front door (both sides, 6 inch by 24 inch area). We also have a Saturn Vue but it does not get them. We can clean it off with Goo-Gone or Dissolve-It, but it still requires hard scrubbing. The car is Silver so the black stains are very obvious.
The BMW dealer said it was some kind of wax they coat things with during manufacture that oozes out of the door, but after 5 years that should be gone. Just frustrating since it so quickly re-accumulates after cleaning.
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While changing over to snow tires yesterday, I noticed the driver's side CV boot was split open with grease/oil everywhere.
Questions:
How urgent is this repair? Is the car drivable for a short while until I can get it fixed?
How much might I expect a CV boot replacement to cost?
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Just took a drive to Home Depot, hopped out of the excursion and got a whiff of burning brakes. I'm thinking i have a stuck caliper on the rear driver side just enough to cause the smell but not enough to slow acceleration or speed up deceleration. Should I just grease up the calipers?
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This morning I went to the self serve junkyard to pull some parts, in a hurry to get back to my car I place my tool box that had some oil, grease and dirt on the bottom of it, on to my rear seat.
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