The brake lights on my 97 GMC Sierra are not working right. When you apply the brakes the lights come on when you first press the pedal but then they immediately go out. I'm thinking brake pedal switch. Any other possibilities I should look at?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 GMC Sierra with 90,000 miles and a 5.3 engine. Never any issues but I've noticed that when I start the truck up the electric auxiliary fan comes on immediately. This is when the truck is cold and the fan should not be needed. Never had any issues with it overheating or anything. Is this just a sensor gone out or something or is it normal? If it is a sensor which one is it and where would it be located?
View 9 Replies2005 Sierra 4WD 1500 Crew Cab.
My 2005 Sierra, with only 42,000 miles on the odometer, has been stricken by the corroded brake lines syndrome. So far, only one line has burst - a line to the left front brake - spraying brake fluid all over the exhaust manifold and leaving me with rear brakes only. I'd like to know, before borrowing a car and heading off to the parts store for a generic length of pre-flared tubing, what the tubing diameter is (i.e. 1/4" or 6mm) and what the thread gauge on the fittings is.
How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
View 2 RepliesWhere is the brake control module located on a 2008 Sierra, Crew Cab, Z71, 5.3L.
View 3 RepliesI've replaced rusted out brake lines on my 1998 GMC Sierra 1500. I bled the system properly and every thing seems to run fine and brakes good. But the brake warning light stays on in the dash and buzzer is on. What to do to turn these off...
View 3 RepliesStop immediately brake failure fault on Passat? Mine is a w8 4 motion and is riding a wrecker to the dealer.. We'll see what he says...
View 4 RepliesA friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
M friend with his 98 gmc. When stopping the breaks are normal until getting slow then the abs motor comes on and the break pedal sinks to the floor. The truck stops but the abs motor runs constant until you release the pedal. This is happening on dry roads. What is there to check before condemning the abs module?
View 4 RepliesI have an '89 GMC Sierra which has the standard rear wheel anti-lock brakes offered that year and a vacuum booster. It has about 180,000 mi. on it. I have a problem with the brake pedal fading to where it goes completely to the floor. This happens whether the engine is running or not. The brake warning light is not on (but is operable), there is no air in the lines, and their are no external leaks. The resevoir has stayed at full level. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the bore looked great as did the seals, but I installed the rebuild kit anyway.
There has been no change in performance. Can this be a problem with the isolation/dump valve assembly leaking internally. I would think that would cause the warning light to come on. The i/d valve is a costly part to replace and I hate to experiment on such a solution without some confidence in the source of the problem. The GM Service Manual troublshooting indicates air or internal master cylinder leakage is the culprit, and indicates the light would come on for any i/d valve problems.
I have a 2000 Sierra and my driver's side brake light won't work but the light bulb is not bad. The Passenger side light, however works. What should I check on the truck to solve this problem. Would it be between where the bulb snaps in and where the plug for the lights plug into the truck under the bed or should I check something else?
View 5 RepliesMy 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
View 9 RepliesI have had my new Santa Fe Elite for three weeks. On three occasions I have found the Electronic Park Brake does not immediately release as it should on takeoff. Why it stays on some times? My vehicle is Right Hand Drive.
View 4 RepliesI have just recently bought a 2006 prius (T Spirit model in the UK) with 46k miles on the clock.
Anyway i took it into a local garage today for its full service, as part of the process they disassembled the brakes to inspect them. unfortunately when they put it all back together, all the brake related lights have come on (VSC, ABS, anti skid, handbrake) and despite the mechanics efforts to reset them, could not turn them off. When the car is turned off the brake pedal now feels loose and makes a funny twang noise as if it has come off its spring. there are also dull noises coming from the brakes when i am driving the car and turn the steering wheel full lock to the right or left.
What has really annoyed and scared me is that when i now drive the car and brake, on releasing the brake pedal i get the feeling the brakes do not disengage immediately, instead there is some lag with the brakes disengaging a second after i have removed my foot from the brake pedal and makes the car jerk a little before coming to a stop. the car also feels sluggish to drive and on the drive back home only managed to achieve 45 mpg (heart breaking!). the mechanic has promised to take a look at the car next tuesday (we have a long public holiday this weekend so most stores will be closed) leaving me to suffer 4 days of anxiety and non use of my car.
My gen I Prius started having issues. Every time I drive about 30 miles the triangle and check engine light come on with a ding and also my dash lights immediately dim. I just replaced the 12 v battery. Still no fix.
I also switched the fuel pump relay with the horn relay which seemed to work the dash light dimming problem (oddly enough). So I'm not sure what it could be.
My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
View 11 RepliesI am having a problem with trailer lights and an 03 350. When the truck is in reverse the fuse for travel trailer running lights and tail lights blows immediately. Changing plugs on the truck did not work. Truck has been hooked up to 4 other trailers including another travel trailer with no problems. Our travel trailer has been hooked up to an 08 and a 2011 truck with no problems. Fuse 38 20 amp. 7 post rv plug.
View 3 Repliesi have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesMy wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
View 4 RepliesI found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
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