Going down interstate running fine. Then just died, changed timing chain & gears, camshaft, crank, throttle pos. sensors, New cap & rotor,new gear on bottom of distributor, new coil and module, everything but the knock sensor and computer. Still no fire, Plug wires are good.
View 1 Replies2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
Heres the deal...less than 2 weeks ago i had the clutch replaced in my 97 s10 2wd 2.2 5spd. this truck has been nothing but problems mostly self inflicted (by myself) 20000 miles since February 9th... anyways I was driving down the road to work running not perfect but running. All of a sudden the truck shut off while going fast enough to go down another street into a lot. came back at the end of the work day tried to start it with nothing. It got spark but wont fire. Replaced the fuel pump and filter, checked all the lines to see if they were messed up during the clutch repair, the gas is circulating all the way through, so i took out the spark plugs and no of them are getting wet. Then we tried something and tried to get it to start and it shot a backfire and flames out the intake manifold...
View 2 RepliesMy Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
I have a 97 Sierra with a 4.3 in it. The truck has 236,000 miles on it.
The truck ran great up to a couple days ago. My father in law was driving it and he said he started it, put in gear to drive off and it just died. It will not start now. The fuel pump is priming when you first turn the key. I haven't had a chance to look at it, but my FIL said he pulled a couple plug wires and there is no spark.
I've been doing some reading online and I've seen bad crank sensor as a good possibility. Is this a common problem? I'm not wanting to sink a ton of money into this truck with its mileage.
I have a 99 Saturn SL2/auto. Cylinder 1 will not fire. It has spark to the end of the plug. But the cylinder will not fire. No oil is getting on the plug it isn't fouling out. A brand new plug doesn't work at all. The cylinder is DEAD!
View 8 RepliesMy father in law has a 98 4wd, 4.0L that cranks but doesn't fire. We pulled a plug to check for spark....no spark. Possibly coil pack, or crank position sensor?
View 5 Replies2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
I have a 2005 ford ranger, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 60psi fuel presser, has spark and injector pulse, will try to start if you hold the throttle a little over 3/4 the way down, but will not fire on starting fluid.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
View 9 RepliesWhile driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
View 14 Replies1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
View 19 Replies94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?
So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
So I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, etc., ( all the usual things).
Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.
Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.
Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinking that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.
Now I am stoked and thinking that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark. It still turns over but no start. I am trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.
I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop, which I really do not want to do. A day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. In the process I am thinking I may have damaged something?
My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
I recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
View 3 RepliesMy Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
I just started having a problem with my 4wd.
When I push the button to select anything other than 2 hi, the indicator light for the selected range will flash for about 30 sec and then it reverts back to a steady light on the 2 hi button.
I have already replaced the pushbutton unit and nothing changed there.
How can I troubleshoot it from this point?
Ac does not work. as soon as i start the truck the AC compressor goes on and off every five seconds ?
View 1 Replies