Sierra :: 97 4.3 Truck Not Starting - Put In Gear To Drive Off And It Just Died
May 17, 2013
I have a 97 Sierra with a 4.3 in it. The truck has 236,000 miles on it.
The truck ran great up to a couple days ago. My father in law was driving it and he said he started it, put in gear to drive off and it just died. It will not start now. The fuel pump is priming when you first turn the key. I haven't had a chance to look at it, but my FIL said he pulled a couple plug wires and there is no spark.
I've been doing some reading online and I've seen bad crank sensor as a good possibility. Is this a common problem? I'm not wanting to sink a ton of money into this truck with its mileage.
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1985 GMC Sierra 2 wheel drive. Truck sets lower on drivers side about 1 or 1.5 inches. Very noticable. Put new coil springs in front and 4 new shocks on. Back springs are original heavy duty with six leafs. Nothing noticable. don't know what to do. This truck is all factory original.
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Recently purchased this Monte Carlo SS with a bad engine. Picked up a really good engine and it sounds great. Backed the car out of the garage, and when I shifted into drive, the car would hardly move. It felt like it was starting out in high gear. Had code P1860 (Trans converter clutch) set. Car has 150K on it. Suspected bad trans. Just had the trans rebuilt by AAMCO to the tune of $1100.00. Still have the exact same problem. The car will go in reverse just fine, but it won't hardly move forward. The old engine pushed a lot of antifreeze and oil through the exhaust. When I started the new engine, it smoked like a smoke stack for about 20 minutes, but then quit smoking. What am I missing? The trans is full of oil, and all connections are fine.
The Monte Carlo is a 2000, not a 2001.
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Going down interstate running fine. Then just died, changed timing chain & gears, camshaft, crank, throttle pos. sensors, New cap & rotor,new gear on bottom of distributor, new coil and module, everything but the knock sensor and computer. Still no fire, Plug wires are good.
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I have a 98 gmc k 1500 350 5.7 . Was having an issue with the truck bucking it would die very briefly thought maybe bad gas. Added treatment and few days later it was doing the same this time back fire check engine lite came on checked code mass air and cam position sensor.
I pulled cap and when I was about to take rotor button out I noticed play I could actually push down on it. I pulled distributor and confirmed the play I replaced new complete distributor and yes I forgot to mark position so line tdc #1 compression stroke installed distributor timing was off.
But running rough so I re adjusted timing now it just cranks I have played with the timing alot so I tested the coil had some strange ohm readings ( high quality meter) and have voltage 12 vdc at coil and module replaced coil today still same thing I have fuel and 60 psi of fuel pressure and it holds with key off and it's not the pass lock security does not flash. Fuel pressure regulator can't be leaking.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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1999 GMC Sierra - 2wd
Truck belongs to a co-workers son so I might not have all the info I need. Just within the last couple of days - he's driving at night and the headlights cut off. Pulls over and waits a bit - restarts - lights work for 1/2-1 mile then cut off again. He has changed the headlight relay switch.
No DRL but does have automatic headlights. First noted this Tuesday night and the weather since Tuesday has been either rainy or foggy. He had higher intensity "blue" bulbs installed but has swapped them to regular bulbs and the problem continues.
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I have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sierra. The rear differential cover was leaking on me for past couple of months, but I was putting it off. FInally this weekend my truck starting making an airplane sound that seemed to be coming from the rear. The sound happened on acceleration only, and increased in amplitude and frequency as the speed increased and as I pressed the gas more. If I let go of the gas, or let it cruise, then the sound would sputter once or twice, and go away. It would resume if I pressed on the gas again.
Since the rear differential cover was leaking, I thought I burned out the gears. When I changed the cover, the gears appeared to be fine. The lubricant was super low, and did smell burned out though. I refilled the fluid and put a new cover on. This did not solve my noise problem though.
Is it still the rear differential that is making the noise? Is it something else? How hard is it, and how involved is it to replace the rear differential? Can I replace its components, and which ones?
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
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I recently started having problems with my 98 GMC Sierra c1500. I'll be driving and all the sudden it will jerk as if it's shifted from 5th to 1st gear, but the revs don't go up, they drop to about 600 like it is about to die and then it go back to normal revs. It only does this while I'm on the gas and very rarely at idle. I don't know if it could be the transmission or something is blocking fuel from the engine.
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I have a 96' 1500ec with 5.7L and auto trans. I have been fighting an ongoing code of multiple misc. cyl. misfire. I noticed a hesitation only when I start out in first gear, once it shifts or if I start out in second it's smooth. I have 138,000 on the odometer. Code-0300 with the mmcm , how about timing, distributor or stretched timing chain?
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Son's 2000 GMC Sierra, 200000 miles, 4.8L engine, automatic transmission and 4WD. Was driving home from a trip to the store - heard a "violent popping noise" on the passenger side and the truck simply slowed to a stop. Engine running fine, all sounds fine while idling. When we put it into any gear, I can "feel" it go into gear but the truck doesn't move forward or back. Just changed differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids about two months ago.
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I have a 99' GMC 1500 Sierra SLT w/5.3 Vortec V-8 w/460,000 miles (yup !!) I bought the p/u w/59,000 miles, and the gear-selection lever on the column has always been hard to move when selecting gears. My daughter drives the p/u, and is hard for her to select gears.
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I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
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All the sudden today all the dash indicators died & the seatbelt indicator light is flashing. It drove OK, but something is definitely wrong. Fuse maybe?
2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax Diesel.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
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My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
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While driving at night, my battery and break light came on on the dashboard. About 50 minutes later, my car can no longer travel faster than 5mph. The engine was not able to rev up when it is in Drive, but it was able to rev up the when I put it in Park or Neutral. Finally it died, while traveling at 5mph.
Had a friend jump started the car, but was not able to travel over 5mph. Then it died shortly.
So is this the alternator? I'm hesitant to think it is the alternator, because the engine was able to rev up when it is in Park and Neutral.
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