Sierra :: 96 - AC Only Get Really Cold At Highway Speeds


Jul 25, 2011

I have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.

It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.

Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.

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Ford A/C :: Less Cold Air At Sustained Highway Speeds?

So I had a couple of hoses replaced on my a/c system and the refirgerant replenished. On a hot day (like we've had for the past several weeks) When just tooling around town I have it set to "max cool" (recirculate) and fan on "High" it blows air cold enough to freeze water! But when I hit the highway and run at sustained highway speeds for over an hour, the fan output (force of air coming from the vents) distinctly lessens.

This is regardless of whether I have it set to max cool or just high regular. The fan simply does not blow as hard. Now I have replaced fans in both my older trucks (an 82 and an 88) so as long as a '97 isn't too much different, I know the job isn't particularly hard or expensive. I just want to hear some theories as to why this is behaving as it does.

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She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.

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We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.

Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.

Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.

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Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?

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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.

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This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.

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My car is just 3 months old ( 3300 miles). I started noticing that the car is floating at highway speeds. I feel like the wind is pushing the car to sideways. I started feeling this for few days. Then I verified the tire pressure. Because of the cold weather we had in the last couple of months, I never had chance to check the tire pressure. The pressure was between 37 and 40. I don't know why the dealer didn't set it to right pressure. Then I reduced the pressure to 30 for all the 4 tires. Now I feel the steering is heavy. Couple of questions.

1. Do I need to align the wheels ( I have just 3300 miles).
2. What is the tire pressure you maintain. I have 15" Continental stock tires.

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For a while I had been having vibration at between 60-80mph I think I mentioned it in a thread before too. Well anyway when I got my 30,000 mi check up they told me it was probably due to the tires being unbalanced and that my tires were in such bad shape that balancing them woudln't make a difference. So I got to new tires (and my rims as you all remember) from NTB. I took it back to Toyota to get the alignment done after that I got on the highway to see if it was vibrating still and it was so they told me to bring back in.

So today they told me one of the tires that I got at NTB was bad because they couldn't get it balance within the range of the other 3 tires so I took the car back to NTB got into it with the guy there and they eventually saw things my way and put a new tire on the car. So after that I get back on the high way the car starts vibrating right when it hits 60. So I take back to Toyota, the guy tells, I heard him mention to one of the mechanics that it might be a bad axle.

Around 6:30 or so they call me and tell me they are going to take rims and tires off a brand new Camry and put them on my car and the manager who lives far away is going to drive my car home and then back again in the morning to get a better idea of the problem with the car. And to top that off they wanted to charge me 40 bucks for a rental car, but luckily I can drive my dad's Cam to work.

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Bought a 2005 Prius with a perfect history and that recently had its 60k check up at the Toyota dealer. Don't know exactly when the sound changed since I'm not the primary driver, but now it sounds like a jet airplane when it reaches highway speeds and it's hard to hear what we're saying to each other, much less what people are saying over the Bluetooth (although the built in Bluetooth noise cancellation feature is fantastic and the person on the other end of the phone doesn't hear the noisy engine). What could be causing the car to sound like we're taking off at the airport (at any speeds above 40 mph, it seems)? Our passengers comment on the near constant background noise level.

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Having trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....

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My 2004 Camry 3.3 V6 (3MZ-FE) has started to run a bit sluggish at highway speeds and sometimes in stop and go traffic.
This P0430 code came on after a recent oil change and flushing my engine with seafoam.

The info I've gotten from my auto parts store is that it's one of the oxygen sensors, HO2S or Bank 2. I believe, if my research is correct, that this sensor is post cat. Looking down from the front of my engine I can see 2 sensors after the cat pretty close to each other.

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Honda - Accord :: 2004 - Using Oil At Highway Speeds Only

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My vehicle works absolutely beautifully except between 75 and 105 km/hr where I experience sputtering. This does not happen under load but just when I am maintaining a constant speed. It feels like misfires but I don't get a check engine light when it occurs. Misfires would definitely trigger the check engine light. I've tried the obvious solutions:

Used fuel system cleaner in case I got a bad tank of gas
Used fuel additive to eliminate any water in the tank
Changed the oil and filter (it was due anyway)
Replaced the air filter (it was also due)
Cleaned the MAF Sensor
Replaced the spark plugs

None of this has made any appreciable difference in the performance of the vehicle. The sputtering persists.

The car does not have traditional spark plug wires. Instead it has ignition coils which run about $140 each from the dealership. I may eventually have to change one or more coils but I'll try cheaper solutions first.

My next step is to replace the crankshaft position sensor. You may have noticed that I am problem solving starting with the least expensive solution and progressing to more expensive repairs.

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