Sierra :: 91 GMC 5.7 - No Fuel From Throttle Body When Cranking
Aug 10, 2013
When cranking there is no fuel from the throttle body. Dropped the fuel line on both sides of the filter that was replaced last fall and have good flow before and after the filter. If I spray starting fluid down the throttle body it will fire. Switched out the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve to no avail. It used to die after warming up every so often at a stop light but would start right back up, now it just quit and wont start ???
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97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 liter V8. I have right at 130,000 miles and I have a very annoying noise at very low idle. It's a buzzing sound whenever I put very light pressure on the gas peddle. When I depress it further the noise stops, but I don't always want to burn out of parking spaces.
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
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I cleaned my throttle body this afternoon.
My car started fairly easily, and I continued with running it to 4k RPM a few times, then took it for a ride. I floored it a few times, as suggested, to clear everything out.
Now, my 2004 J-VIN Camry is running around 1200 RPM, it was at about 650-675 before the cleaning. Is this normal? Do I need to d/c the battery to reset the ECU so the car can re-learn with a clean TB?
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My prius has a coolant leak, which look like it's coming from the throttle body. The stealership recommends a new throttle body. The mechanic said he has not seen coolant leak from the throttle body before. Is this the only fix to replace the throttle body?
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What Is that little hose for? I can Smell the gasoline whenever i start the car in the morning. It is cracked But i recently heard a z-zzing Under the hood. Is it an expensive hose? What about the hose clamp.. it looks weird.. is its special for that application ? I wanna replace it myself but I don't want to do it wrong and turn my car on fire.
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I have a 2012 Camnry I4 and want to clean the throttle body.
Is this throtte the type that I can manualy open valve by hand without damage, or does the pedal need to be pushed to open, to prevent computer or throttle timing issues?
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The rpm with the A/C on are 550 , I was told to replace Throttle body, I did, rpm continue the same,when im driving and I stop the car start vibrating, some one told me that i have to program the new throttle body , how can i do that?
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I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
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My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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I cleaned the MAF in my 2008 (58k miles) with CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the throttle body as well. There was a small puddle of oil in the intake manifold from the previous owner overfilling oil so I cleaned that up as well.
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Started my car this morning to warm it up, idled for ~ 20min. weather conditions. I returned to my car, and it was misfiring and threw the p1545 throttle body code. There was a mk5 tsb for a similar problem involving wiring. 49k miles, stock tune, w CTS catted dp.
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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I have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
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Just purchased one of the members 2006 Prius. It wasn't in good condition and I knew that upfront. The price I paid justified the imperfections on the car. The car has 117k miles and it does burn oil. To the tune of 1 qt every 3000 miles according to the seller. However I believe it burns more than that amount now. I changed the oil and the dipstick reading was slightly below the minimum mark. The engine doesn't sound all that great but seems to run very well.
I was cleaning the throttle body today and noticed there is oil in that area. I looked down the throttle plate (not sure what that's called), and there was a layer of oil on the bottom. I know oil is not suppose to be in that area. What could this be?
The car had a leaking ice water pump and the coolant was a bit low, not sure if it could have overheated before.
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