I have a 350 throttle body injection 3/4 ton 87 Sierra with 107K miles that runs great but when I shut it off it won't start again! Starts right up when it's cold but I have to wait about 2 hours before it will start again once its been started. Turns over just fine. I recently replaced the coil but that didn't do the trick. Is there some kind of sensor or switch that could be heating up?
View 4 RepliesMy 2.0T 06 Passat misfires sometimes during cold start after 6-8 hrs of parking. It happens very rarely. I have had the car for 4 years (bought it brand new) and the misfire has happened about 5-6 times. Is this normal? Just wondering if they get logged in the computer system so VW Service can see it? My car has got 47K miles on it.
View 5 RepliesA friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
I have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
View 2 Replies2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesAbout three days ago, while taking the dogs out, I go through the garage, which is not heated, and I notice the Prius is making a noise. It sounds like an electric motor running but I can not figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. It had been raining, and the car was pulled in the garage wet. About 5 minutes ago, I heard the same noise while getting the dogs in from outside. Both times I came back in the house, grabbed a FOB, and hopped in the car and put it in ready mode. I immediately shut it off, and the noise was gone. It reminds me of the sound that the car makes when you open the drivers door, which I think is the master cylinder pressurizing. It is about 7 degrees F here, but I am sure it is a little warmer in the garage.
The car has about 33K miles on it. It gets driven everyday. Today, I got home about 4:30, and this just occurred at around 9:45. Whatever is causing the noise, I am sure will put a drain on the battery, as it definitely is an electrical motor of some sort running, which will take some power. I would hope that the power was coming from the 12 volt battery, and not the traction battery, as it usually disconnects a minute or so after the car is shut off. The car was definitely shut down when I drove it in, and every light was off on the dash when I got in to power it back up, except for the flashing lock light on the right side of the display. The wind chill here tonight is supposed to go to -25 degrees F. I am concerned about the car starting if it pulls too much power from the 12 volt battery.
I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
View 12 RepliesSo I went on a trip with my 7.3 PSD the other weekend. It was a 4 hour drive. After 3 hours of driving with the A/C on, the air temp started getting warmer to the point were it seemed like the A/C wasn't working at all. After reaching our destination we didn't drive the truck much or use the AC for 4 days. On the trip home, the AC worked perfectly for the first 3 hours. Then again, the last hour it started to warm up like the AC wasn't functioning at all.
View 1 RepliesI have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.
It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.
Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.
We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
View 13 RepliesTruck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
I have a small problem with the 337. this morning it was -21 and i started the car and it died right away second try it died right a way third try it started no problem. after work it was around -2 and same problem. i have problem starting the car when its been siting for a few hour.
What could cause this? i changed the crank sensor last weekend. put a brand new battery. cause the last one was 7 years old.
Happen a few times already. My RCF had problem starting at night only after parking for a couple of hours. During the day the car start fine and never once have starting issue. The problem is when I press the start button the car will try to start then die immediately. Second and third push will be required before the car would start. Is this a problem with fuel pump? I don't hear any noise issue from the fuel pump that others have reported. I notice that this starting problem only happen at a particular hotel that I play tennis at after work. The hotel is at sea level our day time temp is mid to high 80's. At night it is low 80's. Our humidity is quite high at 80%+.. Going to have the car checked on next service.
View 6 RepliesMy dad has a 98 Buick La Sabre that will shut off at times. It once shut off as he was turning on the air cond. last summer. Right after it stalled and would not start he attempted to open the windows but they would not work. After a few hours and cooling off it started and the windows worked again. He took it to a shop who said it was the map sensor. They changed it but the problem happened again a few weeks after. The fuel pump has recently been changed along with the fuel filter.
One mechanic suggested it could be the ignition control modular or knock sensor. He recently got a different car so I an going to test drive it for a while. If it shuts down I will test for spark to confirm it is not a fuel problem. I will also try swooping relays to see if that is not the problem. I will be cleaning all the connections I can find with contact cleaner as it can't hurt.
What could be the problem. Could it be a short, a bad wire that once it gets to much of a load on it cuts the engine off?
I noticed what like water Steam or smoke when start the car after parking it for more than 6 hours.
Here is a like to youtube I see the smoke is a little blue ....
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with about 222,000 mikes on it. It runs extremely smoothly, but I've had problem after problem with startup. My clutch sensor was loose for a while, replaced my starter, replaced the ignition coil, everything that could stop the thing from starting up has happened. Finally for the last couple weeks, the car has had these spells where it will crank forever and not start, like it did when I replaced the coil (I did that again just in case, not the problem). These spells last varying mounts of time.
A few times it's started up in minutes, and two times now it's been out for at least a day. I've checked everything and it seems to not be getting spark when it's not starting. I'd really like any insight to this. I'm considering changing my crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, but I can't even find those on my engine. What could be causing this? I really need a car that will start up and is reliable. It should be noted that the car USUALLY starts fine. This only happens about once every 5 or 6 days.
Friend of mine has a 2000 Passat. He has a weird problem. The car will just shut off in the middle of driving and won't start for 1-2 hours.. the ECU was already replaced, along with some sensors.
View 3 RepliesCar is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
View 12 RepliesIs it possible for the engine fan to start running on my honda civic while the car is turned off and has been off for hours? My husband claims that it was so hot in the garage last night that the fan on the car started running. I think it was the house air conditioner that he heard, but he insists it was the car engine fan. I think he's up in the night!! So...is it him, or me, that's up in the night?!
View 8 RepliesThe car has 96xxx miles and doesn't like to turn over when it sits for more than about 6 hours, it is worse the colder it is. Once the car starts it will fire right up every time you start it as long as it doesn't sit for more than about 6 hours. It doesn't make any strange noises while starting just the normal vum vum vum vum VUM vum vum VUM VUM vum vum etc until it finally catches. I should also add that upon starting (and this only happens when it hard starts) it will idle at around 1500rpm while in the park. The shift to reverse it drops to about 1000, shift back to park it goes back to 1500. I have already replaced the fuel pump, 02 sensors, MAF, and the camshaft position sensor. I took it to a shop once, they could not figure out the problem but claimed it was a common problem with Nissans of that period and if I primed the fuel pump by turning the key to the ACC point for about a minute and pressing the gas a little bit when I tried to start it that it would start. That does not work.
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