This engine will not start unless we dump gas into carburetor. Changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel regulator. At the shraeder valve we are getting 20psi. I hear that it only needs to be at 10-12psi to run. What else is controlling fuel to being dumped into the engine!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 GMC Sierra with a starting problem: When you've driven it long enough for the engine to reach about 210 degrees, if you stop the truck it won't start back up until the engine has cooled down to about 200. It only does this when it's over 80 degrees outside, though.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
My Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
View 3 RepliesCar has less than 28k on it but the pump took a dump,luckily I noticed the coolant leak after my wife drove it and we caught it in time before it got hot.
She never looks at her gauges (except the fuel) and since I know there's no low coolant warning light in these cars,I'm on it like a hawk.
Couldn't find the proper Toyota coolant so I topped off with distilled water and what fluid I was able to recapture from the drip pan.
Had it towed to my mechanic,he diagnosed the problem and $600 later,he'll button her all up and we should be back in the drivers seat tonight.
Counting my lucky stars...could have been much worse.
I just installed a gt2871 turbo and I'm experiencing fuel dump at higher rpms. It's just like it dies at the top. My buddy said I probably need new injectors.
View 2 RepliesSo as the title states I'm getting a rear whine sounds more like a dump truck slowing down, anytime I go over 45 mph. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with VW to get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed.
I've checked and properly inflated my tires and there is still decent tread left. As far as I've seen it could be the rear diff or harmonic balancer.
I recently got my car tuned (apr stg I) and I'm lowered on neuspeed race springs with matched bilsteins. I doubt either of those would have any impact on my issue though.
A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
95 GMC Sierra 1500. My truck cranks, but it won't start. If I push on the gas it delivers fuel and kind of starts, but it dies out immediately. I considered it to be a fuel pump issue at first, but I had my fuel pump replaced about a year ago so I do not think that is the problem, but I am not sure what else it could be. I am looking for some troubleshooting steps so I can narrow down the issue and get my hands dirty working on my truck.
View 4 RepliesI recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
I have a 350 throttle body injection 3/4 ton 87 Sierra with 107K miles that runs great but when I shut it off it won't start again! Starts right up when it's cold but I have to wait about 2 hours before it will start again once its been started. Turns over just fine. I recently replaced the coil but that didn't do the trick. Is there some kind of sensor or switch that could be heating up?
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
View 2 RepliesI have a 96' 1500ec with 5.7L and auto trans. I have been fighting an ongoing code of multiple misc. cyl. misfire. I noticed a hesitation only when I start out in first gear, once it shifts or if I start out in second it's smooth. I have 138,000 on the odometer. Code-0300 with the mmcm , how about timing, distributor or stretched timing chain?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 GMC Sierra with 90,000 miles and a 5.3 engine. Never any issues but I've noticed that when I start the truck up the electric auxiliary fan comes on immediately. This is when the truck is cold and the fan should not be needed. Never had any issues with it overheating or anything. Is this just a sensor gone out or something or is it normal? If it is a sensor which one is it and where would it be located?
View 9 Replies2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
View 3 Replies2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesI'm working on getting my GMC seirra 1500 5.0 L running. Last fall When I was making a trip to another town, it broke down. When it broke down it smelt like plastic was burning, I was unable to figure out what the smell was.
First I though it was a bad battery connection, or that the starter had went.
I changed the Battery, made sure the cables were good. changed the starter and it still doesn't work.
I know the battery is working for sure because There is power to the lights so I can turn on the brights. There is no power to anywhere else on the dash though other then the icon that shows the brights are on.
When I try to turn the engine over, nothing happens at all. Doesn't even make a clicking noise.
I have a 1991 gmc 1/2 ton with 200K on it. Its a 350 engine. The engine has been stumbling for a long time. I've tried many things ...new fuel pump and filter...complete tune up.....checked all vacuum lines..replaced a couple lines...EGR valve.....changed head gasket and intake gasket. Checked the warm up flap inside the air cleaner. I am now very very frustrated.
This stumbling happens often but intermittent also....sometimes worse than other times like the truck is about to stall. The truck seems like its being held back like a loss of power. The truck will begin to stumble so i will pull over and rev it up and it seems to clear itself for a short while then right back to stumbling.
Upon warmup in the morning she seems to run fine until hot. No codes being thrown ...service engine light NOT on. Even while at a stop i will hold the throttle part way and revs at different rpms. I am now at a loss and feel defeated.
I started having trouble that the mechanic identified as the carburetor not working (it was pouring gas into itself). He said that this carburetor was a 'dinosaur' and never worked right from the factory. They told me that they never heard of anyone who had successfully worked on this car's carburetor, after it started having problems. They recommended getting rid of that carburetor & putting on a rebuilt Holley carburetor, which continued to give me problems. Were they just giving me a line so they could charge me more money? Or telling me right?I have another mechanic who after he saw what they did, that the Holley will never work right on this car because this car has a computer module & there is nowhere to plug in that module on the new carburetor.
View 15 RepliesMy fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 model, new body style Sierra wt, that has a 4.3 v6, it has 62000. miles, and it has been giving me a (enjine hot a/c turned off warning) and will not let the ac work,
This problem is not a true over heating issue and is happening intermittently, even on a cold start it will sometimes give me this error message and when this is happening it will not register the temp on the gauge, but will activate the electric fans.
I am thinking this is a short at some point or a loose connector but where to look.