Sierra :: 4.3L Running Rough When Cold - Engine Is Missing
Apr 10, 2011
We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I have a 1994 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 with a rebuilt engine 2 yrs ago and it has started having a rough idle(surging/dies) I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, maf sensor, iac sensor, tps sensor, top half of the tb and injectors, distributor, ignition module, plugs and plug wires and still no change. Yesterday I cleaned the iac and seemed to straighten up a little but then got in it to go to work today and it was back to running rough again and seemed worse. I am at a loss.
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Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
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My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
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I have a 1990 3.1L, multiport fuel injection (NOT sequential FI), which runs very well most of the time. However, when I cold start it runs rough (misfire) for about 1 minute (no throttle) or until acclerated. The is no misfire when running normal, but it might be running a little rough when stopped at a traffic light (in Drive, foot on brake).
I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not affect this problem.
I am not using coolant, or oil, the plugs that were removed were somewhat worn, enough that I expected to notice a difference after they were changed.
I have not yet (1) cleaned the MAF, (2) checked carefully for vacuum leaks, (3) checked for leaking injectors.
Since this is a 1990, OBDI, I can't say which cylinder is misfiring or how the fuel trims look etc.
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About a week ago I purchased a new K&N air filter for my '09 GLI (6spd stick & all factory options with 55,000k on the odometer). Outwardly the vehicle seemed to run better (although a new clean air filter of any type will make a vehicle run better) however, 2 days later I noticed that the engine seems to chug a little when it was cold. Not missing like a plug wire off but a chug where it surges forward then holds back continually until the engine warms up. This persists today. I've also noticed a little bit of a rough idle. I've re-inspected my installation and nothing seems to have come loose and the filter fits perfectly.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I have a 1972 MG midget and recently rebuilt the carbs, (needles&seats, floats, needles&jets, new fuel pump&filter) along with ignition,(points, condenser, rotor and plugs), checked timing and adjusted the valves. After tuning and balancing the carbs I take it for a test drive, it runs perfectly for about 5 - 7 miles then starts missing and running rough. I thought this might be heat related so I ran on a cold day with no change. I also put in my old coil with no change. After 25 years this is the first time I have been stumped.
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I have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I live in Kansas and was home in Georgia for the last 2 weeks. The truck drove great there after a fuel up started missing and surging at 50 to 70 thought it might have been bad fuel. waited till it was low added Lucas fuel treatment and premium gas still was doing it. no check engine light. went to Advance and fuse for light was blown they checked and was getting mass air flow code. unplugged it and seemed to be better, not perfect but better. plugged it back in and went to do it again. Changed mass air flow night before the drive back to Kansas. Ran well from Savannah to north Georgia then started doing it again the rest of the way home. Going to have advance check code again.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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I've got a '96 Sierra manual transmission with 215K that's been running fine. I just ran it 400 miles without a problem. Recently I downshifted into fourth to go up a hill and I had a sudden loss of power and a rough ride like I had a flat tire. The harder I press the gas the rougher the ride and it idles almost normally. The check engine light came on and blinks 12 times.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord Ex that began to run very rough when cold. After warming up it seemed fine. Now the car runs rough whether hot or cold. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. The cap, rotor, and wires all appear to be good.
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