Sierra :: 2003 - No Fuel Pressure At Cold Start
Jul 30, 2011
I have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
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I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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95 GMC Sierra 1500. My truck cranks, but it won't start. If I push on the gas it delivers fuel and kind of starts, but it dies out immediately. I considered it to be a fuel pump issue at first, but I had my fuel pump replaced about a year ago so I do not think that is the problem, but I am not sure what else it could be. I am looking for some troubleshooting steps so I can narrow down the issue and get my hands dirty working on my truck.
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I have a 350 throttle body injection 3/4 ton 87 Sierra with 107K miles that runs great but when I shut it off it won't start again! Starts right up when it's cold but I have to wait about 2 hours before it will start again once its been started. Turns over just fine. I recently replaced the coil but that didn't do the trick. Is there some kind of sensor or switch that could be heating up?
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
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I just purchased a 91 sierra sle with the short bed. I am interested in buying a cap for it because the snap on tonneu cover is falling apart and id like a cap. Would caps from other full size short bed pickups work or does it have to be from a sierra/silverado?
Also i notice the oil pressure fluctuates from around 20 to 80 depending on if I am idle (20) to acceleration at 80, when driving it seems to go up and down to depending on the accelerator position. is this normal??
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When it's cold I can floor it and it'll go to 4K RPM.....When it warms up the oil pressure drops and then I can't push the motor over 1500 RPM. I overhauled it and used the old camshaft....I really don't want to get charged 80 bucks an hour for a mechanic to take 2 days to tell me it something I could have fixed myself.
1999 GMC Sierra 4.3 V6 "W"
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so my car doesnt want to start so i am going to check a few things.
first how do i check my fuel pressure or the location?
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After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
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this car is a daily driver and ran very well it has 104,000 miles and well maintained. on a Friday night, it started to rain and my windows were down. my friend volunteered to roll them up and mistakenly left the key in the run position. I was unaware of this until Monday morning so the battery was completely drained. I removed the battery and charged it for about 12 hours until fully charged on a 3 amp charger.
The head lights were bright when I reinstalled the battery but I did not take a voltage reading although i believe it was charged up good.when I went to start the car it did nothing and the fuel pump is not running either. I removed the starter wire from the starter and with a remote starter jumped the starter.. it swirled over fine but no start with the key in run position . it has no fuel pressure and is not getting fire. this car is equipped with an immobilization unit for security.
Is it possible that this caused it to activate? my key also is equipped with a chip I was told by the (stealership) and I only have the one key with no fob to deactivate the security system. my owners manual say I can turn the key to the left in the driver's door to turn off the security also but it has no effect. it is the original key and is very old looking. I have exhausted every hunch I had to get this machine back on the road and I just know one of you tappet brothers is holding the solution to my problem.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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95 lincoln towncar was running fine all day. made a pit stop later on and the car wouldn't start. previous owner said it would do that occasionally and to let it sit for 20 min. or so. still wouldn't start! released fuel pressure at fuel rail and then the car started just fine and was running like nothing happened! could I be getting too much pressure? also never did get the smell of raw gas!
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2000 explorer XLT, 4.0L, OHV (VIN "X")---sitting for 15 months, engine turns over but no start unless 10 cc's of gasoline into intake manifold, then runs for 4-5 seconds. Fuel pressure of 5-6 PSI at fuel rail AFTER replaced fuel pump assembly and fuel filter. I can hear fuel pump come on for about a second with key on. Doubel checked fuses and relays for fuel pump and PCM, then again checked that engine would run briefly with gas squirted into intake manifold. Questions:
1) Could fuel lines be clogged after sitting for over a year?
2) Area driver's side next to spare tire, underneath jack storage, where return fuel lines are clustered (nuts are rusted and need to be sawed off)---some type of fuel regulator here? I thought fuel pressure regulator was on fuel pump assembly.
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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I have an '89 GMC Sierra which has the standard rear wheel anti-lock brakes offered that year and a vacuum booster. It has about 180,000 mi. on it. I have a problem with the brake pedal fading to where it goes completely to the floor. This happens whether the engine is running or not. The brake warning light is not on (but is operable), there is no air in the lines, and their are no external leaks. The resevoir has stayed at full level. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the bore looked great as did the seals, but I installed the rebuild kit anyway.
There has been no change in performance. Can this be a problem with the isolation/dump valve assembly leaking internally. I would think that would cause the warning light to come on. The i/d valve is a costly part to replace and I hate to experiment on such a solution without some confidence in the source of the problem. The GM Service Manual troublshooting indicates air or internal master cylinder leakage is the culprit, and indicates the light would come on for any i/d valve problems.
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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I replaced the fuel pressure sensor in my freestar...I drove it around for a minute then noticed a strong smell of gas. I stopped and then put the old sensor back in and now it won't start.
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On my 2005 Merc Mountaineer AWD, I've had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, crankshaft sensor, ECM relay for the fuel pump, starter, and spark plugs replaced, but to no avail. Car starts when it wants to, but when it doesn't, it'll usually take three to ten minutes of cranking on and off before it fires up. Ford dealership and second repair shop confirmed no fuel pressure to the fuel pump when the vehicle doesn't want to start and recommended a new fuel pump. Problem is, I've already paid the first repair shop for that same service and its gone back to them three times. Could this be electrical as the first shop is now claiming or are multiple mechanics missing something? Second shop replaced the ECM relay out of caution, but the problem persists.
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