Sierra :: 2002 - Alternator Started To Make Some Noise And Battery Light Flashing
Mar 19, 2013
I have a 2002 with a 4.8 ... My alternator started to make some noise, and my battery wasn't holding a charge very well so i decided to change the alternator today before it went some were out in the boonies. After i put the new alternator in, the battery light started flashing in the "message center" but everything seems to be running fine. The voltage gauge in the dash is reading about 15. So from there I turned everything on in the truck and the gauge barely dropped. At this point I'm not sure what to do, I'm going to put the old one back on and see if it goes out, oh I also put some tension on the belt to make sure it wasn't slipping.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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My 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
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The battery light (but not the ! warning light) suddenly started flashing a week ago, and then a day later the car wouldn't start so I took it in for repair. Was told the battery needed to be replaced, but that it was drained because the alternator was defective. So both replaced. Within one day of driving it home, the battery and various other lights started flashing anew (which had happened last after it was jumped and while I was driving it into the mechanic the first time). Car then went dead again after turning off ignition. Wouldn't start.What's wrong with the car? BTW, mechanic has car (which we towed in) and now can't get problem to recur despite his having driven it around several times, for shorter and longer trips! My sixth sense tells me as soon as I pick the car up and drive home, I'll get the loss of battery/power experience and it going dead yet again! He says he checked for short wires and belt issues.
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Driving home yesterday and my dashboard battery light started flashing intermittently. This morning it came on and won't go off.
So far I have...
1. Tested alternator and battery with a multimeter and the results appear to be within normal ranges.
2. Pulled out the alternator and had it tested. It went through 7 test cycles on the bench and passed all of them.
3. Swapped out the battery with a new one.
4. Checked the charging system fuse.
5. Thoroughly cleaned the battery cables.
6. Cleaned the battery to chassis and engine to chassis ground cables.
The battery light stays on no matter what I do. What am I missing?
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Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.
I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.
Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.
I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. How to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege with 74K miles. For the last month the battery light has been flashing on and off, more on lately. When I first noticed the battery light flash on, I took the car to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Soon after my car wouldn't start after I had it parked for about 10 minutes. It wouldn't hold a jump, so I had it towed to a nearby auto mechanic and had the battery changed. Since the battery change the battery light has still been flashing on and off. Yesterday, after my car had been parked for about 1.5 hours, it wouldn't start again. It made a click-click-click sound but would not start. My car was able to hold a jump this time and I drove it to my mechanic. Once again he was unable to find anything wrong with the car. What might be wrong with my car?
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The brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
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Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
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Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
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My power steering started to make noise. I checked the power fluid and it was empty. I refilled it and noticed a leak.
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2005 has 130,000 trouble free miles. Recently during a long trip the engine started to make more noise than usual. This occurs during acceleration up until the point when you hear the engine really start to work.
I took the car to Toyota and they said it sounded normal. I am picky about my car and know a new noise. My wife even said she can hear it.
I think it sounds a bit like the old lifter rattle my 289 Ford made in my 67 Mustang.
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Front discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
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I went out to my 96 gmc k1500 this morning after auto-starting about 10 minutes before to let a/c cool the cab. It was running fine but when I got in I noticed the battery light was on and the electrical gauge was topped out past 19 into the orange. I turned the key into the "on" position and when I hit the brake pedal to put it into gear the engine started surging and then dieing down, back and forth (approx. between 500 and 1500 rpm) until it just finally died (lasted about 20-40 sec.). Ignition was still in "on" position but the electrical gauge returned to normal.
Tried starting it again and electrical gauge jumped right back up and battery light was still on but the engine didn't start surging again until I hit the brake pedal just like before. I'm going to guess my alternator/voltage regulator needs to be replaced but beyond that what else it could be. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I've managed to make minor repairs over the years myself following the Chiltons or Haynes manuals. I have a Hanyes manual for this vehicle but the troubleshooting section doesn't cover my problem specifically.
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Our 2010 Prius has about 57K miles on it (mostly highway and rural commuting). The rear brakes just started to make some noise the other day at low speeds. It sounds like a light metallic squeal, similar to a brake pad wear indicator. It only occurs at low speeds and in reverse. Last time I checked the pads, they had lots of life, but that was in the spring.
I'd like to take apart the brakes to service them, but I don't know if this is a DIYer job on a Pruis. I have tons of experience on auto repairs, and have done hundreds of brake jobs (I also perform auto restoration as a hobby and have done almost every type of mechanical work on a car). So I am not really worried about my skill, but I am worried about knowing the proper procedure to do the repairs on a Pruis.
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My 05 F20 CC LB 6.0 4WD has the alternator light on for a few miles then goes out also sometimes goes away when you accelerate hard, is my alternator going, or is this some common glitch in the light hopefully?? Also every once in a while got the death wobble, installed tie rod ends and center link, but if I hit a bump just right it does it.
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