Sierra :: 2000 GMC 4wd Won't Shift Into 4 Hi Or AWD
Dec 12, 2009
I just started having a problem with my 4wd.
When I push the button to select anything other than 2 hi, the indicator light for the selected range will flash for about 30 sec and then it reverts back to a steady light on the 2 hi button.
I have already replaced the pushbutton unit and nothing changed there.
How can I troubleshoot it from this point?
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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It's a 2000 . She just started seeing the gauges randomly swing all the way over, not sure which way . They stay that way until she starts it again and it's all fine and dandy once more. I'd go into more detail but haven't got them since it's not my truck and this is the first I have heard of it
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I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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2000 GMC Sierra, just over 200k, 4.8L, 4WD. Son was driving and the rear differential seemed to sieze up. Internal casing was destroyed, so got a replacement. Matched the size using the code inside the glove box (something similar to GT4 in both vehicles - it matched exactly). Attached video shows the sound that is coming from the rear of the truck. This noise happens on deceleration. Can drive at least 20MPH and let off the gas. Truck begins shaking at 45MPH. There is no feeling of loss of power or anything negative besides the sound on deceleration.
Important note, this sound was present before we changed the differential guts, and is absent when in 4WD. We only hear the sound when the truck is in 2WD.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I have a 2000 Sierra and my driver's side brake light won't work but the light bulb is not bad. The Passenger side light, however works. What should I check on the truck to solve this problem. Would it be between where the bulb snaps in and where the plug for the lights plug into the truck under the bed or should I check something else?
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I have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3 L V8. Recently I have noticed that when I first start my truck, especially if it's a cold start, it doesn't seem to be running right. It sounds almost as if it's not getting enough fuel to me but I'm not sure. It will first run really good, and then it will drop in RPM's pretty rapidly and almost sound as if it was about to die, which it has died a couple of times in the past from this problem.
Once I give it some gas it seems as if it comes back to life, but if I happen to stop at a red light or stop sign pretty soon after driving, I will encounter the same problem, where it sounds as if it may be about to die. After I get going though, the problem disappears and the truck runs great. I decided to pull the codes finally today, and code P0174 and code P0171 popped up. I have looked at the vacuum hoses and they all seem to be in good shape, but like I said earlier, I could be wrong.
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My truck just started to do this today. when i start, the clock and shifter panel blink/flash for about 20 sec. it also clicks when its flashing.....it makes the same sound as the turn signal. Is it a fuse? maybe a switch?
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2000 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0L gas engine 150K miles. After returning home from a 150 mile drive, I notice a very heavy sound of marbles banging around near the front of the engine at idle. The noise is a much like heavy detonation where timing is badly off kilter. Used my stethoscope to determine this is loudest at the water pump housing. The belt runs smoothly with no sign of unusual resistance. The engine does not overheat, and there is no sign of a coolant leak.Can a bad water pump shaft bearing make such a tremendous "cackling" noise? What else could it be?
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Son's 2000 GMC Sierra, 200000 miles, 4.8L engine, automatic transmission and 4WD. Was driving home from a trip to the store - heard a "violent popping noise" on the passenger side and the truck simply slowed to a stop. Engine running fine, all sounds fine while idling. When we put it into any gear, I can "feel" it go into gear but the truck doesn't move forward or back. Just changed differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids about two months ago.
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2000 Celica GTS e shift will not hold gear it just shifts like its in drive....
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Driving at cruising speed in 3 or D, encounter a hill and the truck shudders and bucks in same gear... then will finally downshift and everything is fine. The high miles 232k may be the issue of course. But does this thing have a vacuum modulator or something on the transmission that I can replace besides the fluid and filter that will fix this reluctant down shifting problem?
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I got into my 2000 V70 Turbo and noticed that someone had cracked the gear shift box. I didn't know what to think so I checked to see if they messed with the gear shift (automatic transmission) and thus were trying to steal the car by moving the gear shift into neutral and pushing my baby away. Nope. Gear shift looked ok. I put my key in and the car was totally dead. I popped the hood, looked about, then looked at my main fuse box. Someone pulled my air pump relay fuse. Oh boy! I went back to the gear shift to see if they messed with my emergency brake. I can't tell. So, I called the police and filed a police report. Here's my question: By pulling the Air pump relay--is someone trying to kill my ABS brakes and then when I'm cruising down the highway I have no ABS and my emergency brake is gone? Very scary thought here. Is my thinking clear, or is there another reason to remove the air pump relay and break into my gear shift box?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback, the car has about 41,6xx miles on it. When i drive it between 2nd and 3rd gear it shift violently, its almost like it shifts due to pressure, it also happens when it downshift too. Also the reverse went out, i can hear the pump running and it goes into reverse but when i press on the gas it acts like it in neutral. This is a daily driver for me.
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My 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
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Alright, well I have recently purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5l SOHC, automatic. 117k miles. The problem is, it won't shift into overdrive. It appears that the overdrive button works, as the dashboard light turns on and off, but pressing the button has no effect on the transmission, as it still doesn't go into 4th gear. It's 3rd gear all the way down the freeway, which really limits me to cruising at like 60 mph. What this could be? The fluid seems alright, and there's enough I believe.
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I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
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What this may be. 2004 Accent Automatic. We just purchased recently for my daughters fist car. Today when leaving the house the car stays in first gear, you can move the shifter through the gears but it wont shift up. Reverse is fine. Checked the oil level in Neutral when hot and it was ok. Hooked up my code reader and there are no Codes. Car only has 85,000 KM on it.
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Why my car is grinding gear when I shift from 1st to 2nd, & yes the clutch is fully depleted and still grinds when I shift.
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