Sierra :: 2000 5.3 Sierra Suddenly Overheated In Cold Weather Then Fine
Jan 25, 2012
A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
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So I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD named Beulah and she is quite the beast... She's got over 260,000 miles (given to me by my father after he used it as a work truck, so mostly highway mileage) and a few little kinks and issues. The one at hand today is some lugging/chugging of the engine usually after wet weather. I live near Lake Michigan and we just got dumped on by lake effect snow, but over this weekend it warmed up and we got quite a bit of rain. After this rain, I went to drive my truck and while it starts just fine and idles just fine, for about 10 or so minutes of initial driving, while at speeds anywhere from 0-30 miles an hour or so, Beulah seems to run a little rough. It almost sounds like she's lugging a bit or something's sticking in her engine. After about 10 minutes or so of driving it seems to fade away so my guess is its just some moisture getting into something and eventually evaporating from the heat of the engine. My questions are 1. Is this bad for my truck? 2. Is there a way to prevent this without spending a fortune?
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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I have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.
It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.
Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.
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I have a 350 throttle body injection 3/4 ton 87 Sierra with 107K miles that runs great but when I shut it off it won't start again! Starts right up when it's cold but I have to wait about 2 hours before it will start again once its been started. Turns over just fine. I recently replaced the coil but that didn't do the trick. Is there some kind of sensor or switch that could be heating up?
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I just started having a problem with my 4wd.
When I push the button to select anything other than 2 hi, the indicator light for the selected range will flash for about 30 sec and then it reverts back to a steady light on the 2 hi button.
I have already replaced the pushbutton unit and nothing changed there.
How can I troubleshoot it from this point?
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We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
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I have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
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Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
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It's a 2000 . She just started seeing the gauges randomly swing all the way over, not sure which way . They stay that way until she starts it again and it's all fine and dandy once more. I'd go into more detail but haven't got them since it's not my truck and this is the first I have heard of it
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I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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2000 GMC Sierra, just over 200k, 4.8L, 4WD. Son was driving and the rear differential seemed to sieze up. Internal casing was destroyed, so got a replacement. Matched the size using the code inside the glove box (something similar to GT4 in both vehicles - it matched exactly). Attached video shows the sound that is coming from the rear of the truck. This noise happens on deceleration. Can drive at least 20MPH and let off the gas. Truck begins shaking at 45MPH. There is no feeling of loss of power or anything negative besides the sound on deceleration.
Important note, this sound was present before we changed the differential guts, and is absent when in 4WD. We only hear the sound when the truck is in 2WD.
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I have a 2000 Sierra and my driver's side brake light won't work but the light bulb is not bad. The Passenger side light, however works. What should I check on the truck to solve this problem. Would it be between where the bulb snaps in and where the plug for the lights plug into the truck under the bed or should I check something else?
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I have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3 L V8. Recently I have noticed that when I first start my truck, especially if it's a cold start, it doesn't seem to be running right. It sounds almost as if it's not getting enough fuel to me but I'm not sure. It will first run really good, and then it will drop in RPM's pretty rapidly and almost sound as if it was about to die, which it has died a couple of times in the past from this problem.
Once I give it some gas it seems as if it comes back to life, but if I happen to stop at a red light or stop sign pretty soon after driving, I will encounter the same problem, where it sounds as if it may be about to die. After I get going though, the problem disappears and the truck runs great. I decided to pull the codes finally today, and code P0174 and code P0171 popped up. I have looked at the vacuum hoses and they all seem to be in good shape, but like I said earlier, I could be wrong.
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My truck just started to do this today. when i start, the clock and shifter panel blink/flash for about 20 sec. it also clicks when its flashing.....it makes the same sound as the turn signal. Is it a fuse? maybe a switch?
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2000 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0L gas engine 150K miles. After returning home from a 150 mile drive, I notice a very heavy sound of marbles banging around near the front of the engine at idle. The noise is a much like heavy detonation where timing is badly off kilter. Used my stethoscope to determine this is loudest at the water pump housing. The belt runs smoothly with no sign of unusual resistance. The engine does not overheat, and there is no sign of a coolant leak.Can a bad water pump shaft bearing make such a tremendous "cackling" noise? What else could it be?
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Son's 2000 GMC Sierra, 200000 miles, 4.8L engine, automatic transmission and 4WD. Was driving home from a trip to the store - heard a "violent popping noise" on the passenger side and the truck simply slowed to a stop. Engine running fine, all sounds fine while idling. When we put it into any gear, I can "feel" it go into gear but the truck doesn't move forward or back. Just changed differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids about two months ago.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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