When it's cold I can floor it and it'll go to 4K RPM.....When it warms up the oil pressure drops and then I can't push the motor over 1500 RPM. I overhauled it and used the old camshaft....I really don't want to get charged 80 bucks an hour for a mechanic to take 2 days to tell me it something I could have fixed myself.
1999 GMC Sierra 4.3 V6 "W"
I recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
I have a 2004 gmc sierra and it is having heater issues. For a while now when starting it up cold it would not blow any warm air until the vehicle is moving. The other day while driving it would go back and forth between hot and cold.
View 3 RepliesI noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
I just purchased a 91 sierra sle with the short bed. I am interested in buying a cap for it because the snap on tonneu cover is falling apart and id like a cap. Would caps from other full size short bed pickups work or does it have to be from a sierra/silverado?
Also i notice the oil pressure fluctuates from around 20 to 80 depending on if I am idle (20) to acceleration at 80, when driving it seems to go up and down to depending on the accelerator position. is this normal??
I have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
View 2 RepliesI have an '89 GMC Sierra which has the standard rear wheel anti-lock brakes offered that year and a vacuum booster. It has about 180,000 mi. on it. I have a problem with the brake pedal fading to where it goes completely to the floor. This happens whether the engine is running or not. The brake warning light is not on (but is operable), there is no air in the lines, and their are no external leaks. The resevoir has stayed at full level. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the bore looked great as did the seals, but I installed the rebuild kit anyway.
There has been no change in performance. Can this be a problem with the isolation/dump valve assembly leaking internally. I would think that would cause the warning light to come on. The i/d valve is a costly part to replace and I hate to experiment on such a solution without some confidence in the source of the problem. The GM Service Manual troublshooting indicates air or internal master cylinder leakage is the culprit, and indicates the light would come on for any i/d valve problems.
I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
View 1 RepliesA friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
oil light on after warm up. 15 psi at idle, 23 psi at 2500 rpm . will get as high as 28 psi at any rpm above 3500 but no higher. heard of the sludge problem so i added flush and changed oil using amsoil 5w40. this did not change the pressures. when i drained the oil , i poked a wire in the drain hole to try to see if i could drag some sludge out but there did not seem to be any there.
I am thinking the oil screen may be clogged with some harder deposits which would require removal of the oil pan.does this all sound reasonable and what kind of difficulty is the oil pan job. it looks rather tight. this is a 1999 passat 1.8 t with a/t.
One other thought: this vehicle just had a head job after a timing belt break. the valves were replaced etc. i wonder if that could have affected the chain driven oil pump?
Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
My 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
Some information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover
Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..
Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles
Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.
I found the following codes:
P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528
I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.
Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.
So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?
I have a ES350 and it is doing the issue of having warm air (or not cooled air) on the driver side, but has cold air on the passenger side. I looked around and saw it was a common problem. One of the solutions I read was to just refill the system with R134A. Not a problem for me, except I don't know where the low pressure port is located in my car. I was trying to find a online service repair manual on my car to locate where I need to connect to, to recharge the system.
View 12 RepliesI have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.0 liter V8. I have right at 130,000 miles and I have a very annoying noise at very low idle. It's a buzzing sound whenever I put very light pressure on the gas peddle. When I depress it further the noise stops, but I don't always want to burn out of parking spaces.
View 1 RepliesAs the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
1999 GMC Sierra - 2wd
Truck belongs to a co-workers son so I might not have all the info I need. Just within the last couple of days - he's driving at night and the headlights cut off. Pulls over and waits a bit - restarts - lights work for 1/2-1 mile then cut off again. He has changed the headlight relay switch.
No DRL but does have automatic headlights. First noted this Tuesday night and the weather since Tuesday has been either rainy or foggy. He had higher intensity "blue" bulbs installed but has swapped them to regular bulbs and the problem continues.
Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
I have a 99' GMC 1500 Sierra SLT w/5.3 Vortec V-8 w/460,000 miles (yup !!) I bought the p/u w/59,000 miles, and the gear-selection lever on the column has always been hard to move when selecting gears. My daughter drives the p/u, and is hard for her to select gears.
View 1 Replies