Sierra :: 1998 GMC K1500 Not Starting
Oct 17, 2014
I have a 98 gmc k 1500 350 5.7 . Was having an issue with the truck bucking it would die very briefly thought maybe bad gas. Added treatment and few days later it was doing the same this time back fire check engine lite came on checked code mass air and cam position sensor.
I pulled cap and when I was about to take rotor button out I noticed play I could actually push down on it. I pulled distributor and confirmed the play I replaced new complete distributor and yes I forgot to mark position so line tdc #1 compression stroke installed distributor timing was off.
But running rough so I re adjusted timing now it just cranks I have played with the timing alot so I tested the coil had some strange ohm readings ( high quality meter) and have voltage 12 vdc at coil and module replaced coil today still same thing I have fuel and 60 psi of fuel pressure and it holds with key off and it's not the pass lock security does not flash. Fuel pressure regulator can't be leaking.
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I have a 98 k1500 5.7 vortec. I was driving and the next thing I knew my truck lost power and would misfire at an idle but only when under a load (in drive with foot on brake). The last time something like this happened an injector came out of place. So that's where I started. I wound up changing the whole spider injectors and ALL the gaskets, upper and lower. I put everything back together and the problem was still there so basically I am back to square one.
I then pulled spark plug wires while running to see if I could isolate the misfire and found that I could pull all 4 wires on the passenger side without any difference in while it was running. So basically my truck is currently running on 4 cylinders and they all happen to be on the driver side. I checked my compression on the passenger side and all 4 cylinders have 180 psi so that rules out the head gasket being blown. I am getting 4 codes , 520, p1345, p0155 and p0161. I know that i have to get tge truck properly timed with a computer but i don't think that would cause my problem.
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I have a 97 Sierra with a 4.3 in it. The truck has 236,000 miles on it.
The truck ran great up to a couple days ago. My father in law was driving it and he said he started it, put in gear to drive off and it just died. It will not start now. The fuel pump is priming when you first turn the key. I haven't had a chance to look at it, but my FIL said he pulled a couple plug wires and there is no spark.
I've been doing some reading online and I've seen bad crank sensor as a good possibility. Is this a common problem? I'm not wanting to sink a ton of money into this truck with its mileage.
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I recenlty bought a 98 GMC sierra for a great price knowing it needed engine work. It has a constant misfire on cylinder one and it causes the whole truck to shake constantly no matter whether idle or acceleration or slowing down. At first I was thinking a burnt exhaust valve. I ran a compression check (the engine was cold though) and I heard a cold compression check means nothing. But in doing so I found that cylinder 1 has the highest compression out of all. I plan on another compression test tomorrow when engine is warm. But until then I was thinking maybe a bad injector on cylinder one? It is a "spider injection system" and I was wondering if it was possible for one injector to be clogged or not working and the rest be fine. I have seen where one will get hung up and cause hydrolock.
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My 1998 GMC Sierra K1500 has developed an intermittent high speed miss. I doesn't miss while idling but with no apparent regularity it will jerk as though the engine lost power for just a moment. I just replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the plugs and plug wires appear to be fairly new (I bought the truck last May). The truck has about 213,000 miles on it.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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My Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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Just curious on what it could be. I checked all fuses I did find some blown ones but I replaced them then the car worked and now it not cranking again. I checked the fuses I found another bad one i replaced it but still not cranking. All lights turn on, radio turns on. The fuses were check engine slots.
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Our 98 Corolla has recently become hard to start. Usually two or three starting attempts for a few seconds before starts and then idles roughly for a few seconds, then drives fine like it always has. Has 51k miles, oil changed regularly, 100k-mile tuneup/spark plug replacement not yet reached (maybe another 18 years, in 2034? Anyway, has performed great always until recently no longer starts immediately. Replaced battery, no change. Have BlueTooth OBD scan tool connects to Android phone - cool display, no codes, what to check, do next?
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I jumped in my car, started her up, and drove the 10 miles or so to meet up with her on the other side of town. And hour and a half later, I jumped back in my car and tried to turn her over....and nothing happened. I got the normal lights on the dash but no sounds at all - not even the usual "click".
I tried a couple more times before I went back inside and retrieved my brother-in-law, who is a retired truck mechanic, and asked him to take a look at it. He found nothing wrong and even he couldn't get it to start up.
I finally relented and called AAA to tow me to my fav mechanic. Before the dispatcher sent someone out, she offered to run through some troubleshooting stuff with me. She tells me, "Jump in, make sure the car is in park and your foot is on the brake, and give it one more try." And guess what? YES! THE CAR STARTED! It wasn't the normal start - it was silent for about three seconds before it finally roared to life - but at least it started.
So, I rush to my mechanic's place and ask them to give it a check over and make sure everything is okay. (I'm heading up to the high desert tomorrow and don't want to get stuck out there.) They came back a couple hours later saying everything looked fine - the battery, starter, and alternator were all fine. The advised me to keep an eye on it and come back when it "finally dies".
In the past year, I've replaced the fuel pump, battery, tie rods, and a boot. The alternator was replaced about 5 years ago and I've never had the starter worked on.
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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I currently own a 1998 Lexus GS400 that is having issues starting. it'll start right up after sitting for a period of time, 30 min or more. Stalled out last night almost home, started right up this morning. Drove to work, wouldn't start back up 5 minutes later, but again started right up an hour later. It started last night with the radio cutting in and out, then radio wouldn't turn on at all. I noticed the interior lights getting kinda dim as well. What it might be?
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I just purchased a 98 Passat 1.8t with 100k and noticed when I let it warm up for more than 10 minutes I start to get white smoke from the tailpipe and the ground underneath the pipe is wet. I can't figure out if its a head gasket because my coolant hasn't gone down too much or if its a problem with the turbo.
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Mine is starting to leak. Watched a couple vids, they lifted the motor passenger side with a hoist and removed the bracket and mount, dogbones etc. That bracket had two bolts on one side and three on the other. They didn't unhook the exhaust or lower the frame either.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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Why doesn't my 98 Ford Crown Vic Police package turn over when it is hot outside and the car is hot? Winter time, I never have the issue. When the outside temp hits the upper 70s or more, and I drive for a little bit, turn the car off it will not start or even turn over. The lights come on like normal. I wait 15-30 minutes, it fires right up. I have replaced the starter/solenoid, battery, battery terminals, ignition relay.
98 crown vic police-4.6 liter Coil-on-plug,electronic timing,182,000 miles
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