I have a 4l60e transmission that was rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, I was driving on the highway when all gears were lost. There is clicking in the front part of transmission. Can I just replace pump? Fluid is clean no pieces in pan, are cluthes still good?
View 6 RepliesWhile driving on highway lost gears no reverse or any gears. check fluid ok no burnt smell
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
View 1 RepliesOn the way home tonight my dad was driving his camry and lost all gears. As far as I know there was no clunking or noises it just lost all gears. I can put the selector into any position and the engine does nothing but rev. Car doesn't try to move at all. "Manual" mode doesn't make a difference either. No fluid leaks that I am aware of and I've done every oil change on his car. Park works as far as I know if that matters. Its almost as if its stuck in neutral. I checked the transmission fuse under the dash and it is not blown. Thinking maybe the solenoid pack went out?
View 9 RepliesI just bought a 1993 Plymouth Voyager recently and the transmission is making a sort of howling sound in low and second gears. It seems to be shifting fine and the sound stops once you get going but I am concerned because the sound is slowly increasing. The fluid looks real old but is stillfairly red. A little bit darker than what it should be with a little bit of brown, but not super bad. I am wondering if maybe someone put in the wrong kind of fluid or maybe the filter is old or clogged, is the pumps system wearing out or bad bearings or what. I know that I need to change the fluid and clean or replace the filter but am I probably looking at something significantly hard to fix or expensive. I can get a free diagnosis at a shop, but I am looking to try and get this fixed myself if possible as I am fairly mechanically inclined and have lots of free time. I am just wondering if changing the fluid and filter will make much of a difference in the life of this transmission. So what is making this sound and is it something not too complicated that can be fixed without a major effort. Is there something fairly easy and cheap to do besides the fluid or do I just drive it.
View 7 RepliesI rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
View 7 RepliesI'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
View 3 RepliesLost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
View 7 RepliesAll week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
View 10 RepliesI was driving down the highway when I lost all oil pressure soon after I lost power steering and the engine died. I have checked the radiator and it is still full of fluid pulled the starter off and try to crank it it still turns the cannot get the engine to turn over it clicks but wont turn over there are no oil leaks underneath the vehicle that I can see. I'm just not sure where to go or what to do from here
View 19 Replies'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
View 1 RepliesI have had the absolute worst experience with my 2010 Toyota Sienna that has 66K miles. The transmission gears seized (completely locked up) while I was driving down the road, causing such friction/tension that it exploded through the top of the cover of the transmission. Parts of the transmission were falling out of the car and the transmission fluid completely emptied onto the road. This created an incredibly dangerous situation.
View 3 RepliesI've been noticing that my 2012 Passat TDI with 125,000 miles, hasn't been shifting to 6th gear when driving down the highway. I've actually noticed it's one gear too low even when driving down city streets. We have been experiencing extreme cold weather in Pennsylvania, so perhaps that's a factor.
If I manually shift to 6th gear, it stays in gear, but it appears that the engine RPMs are a bit lower than usual as well, but I could be wrong there.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
View 5 RepliesI have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.
It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.
Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.
My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
View 11 RepliesA friend has a 1993 4x4 Z71 automatic that has lost 2nd gear. He has drained the fluid and it does not smell burnt and color is fine. He does notice what seems like dust in it but it has no texture when try to feel the dust. The fluid did seem to have some sludge like gunk in bottom of container He drained it into.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
Car, 1993 Ford Festiva, 199,800 miles, original clutch, 5 speed manual transmission. Had the shifter cable replaced about 2 years ago, so that's not it. For almost the past year or so, there's been a lot of freeplay in the clutch pedal, like you have to press about halfway to the floor before you start separating the clutch, but no slipping of clutch. Mechanic said usually when clutch is slipping it will grab near the top. Its been, like, for the past few months I really have to make sure I've got the clutch pedal pressed ALL THE WAY to the floor to shift the gears. Like it grabs way down at the very bottom. And it seems the gears don't shift smooth like they used to, like the shifts are getting "crunchy" for lack of a better word, this is hard to describe in a post.
So anyway, sitting at a light, light turns green, felt a 'POP' as I pushed the clutch pedal close to the floor. So now the pedal pushes down very loosely until about the last 2 inches or so, and at any rate, almost impossible to shift gears. I can kinda jam the gears if the vehicle is moving, but taking off from a stop is darned near impossible, I can kinda jam it into second gear and rev the engine to get going. (And I only did that in order to get home) Actually I was about 80 miles from home when this happened, fortunately I was near a major interstate, only had to contend with 7 traffic lights and managed to hit 3 of them green. Rolling along in gear (any gear) seems fine, almost impossible to shift.
Car now sitting on front lawn, tried (with motor off) shifting the gears, with or without clutch pedal depressed. Gears feel 'crunchy', i.e. doesn't shift smoothly doesn't want to go into a gear. I was thinking along the lines of maybe a clutch spring or a synchronizer broke when I heard the 'pop'.
And this is off--topic, but to top it all off, I get in my other vehicle to go to the store, and within half a mile the "check engine" light comes on, but that's another topic, you can tell I had one heck of a day, someday I'm gonna buy me a new or newish car I'm getting sick and tired of patching up my rolling junkpiles, but for a variety of reasons which would be off-topic and thus verboten.
I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.