Sierra :: 1992 - Transmission Slow To Engage
Nov 8, 2011
I have a 92 and the transmission has started acting up. When I put it in gear it sits for about 5 to 10 seconds before engaging mainly Drive and overdrive sometimes reverse. it shifts fine when I am driving. A shop told me the front pump is going out. Would it be worth it to flush and put some Lucas fluid in it. I am trying to advoid spending hundreds having the tranny rebuilt or replaced.
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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Im looking to upgrade my radio and speaker system in my car but I do not want to lose my steering wheel controls.
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I have a 92 gmc with a standard transmission that is backfiring and sputtering after it has been running for a while. I have noticed that on longer trips, 30+ miles, the truck backfires when i go to accelerate on the highway. Also, after it has been running a while, I will stop at a light, When I go to accelerate, It backfires and tries to stall but wont. I have to turn the key off and wait for the truck to shut off.
Once it shuts off, I will restart it and then it runs normal till the next light.. I have replaced the plugs recently, thinking that it was a misfire problem. All the plugs looked normal. None were dirtier than the rest. It only does this after it has been running for a long distance. If it is cold, it does not have a problem. I have also tried seafoam in the tank and direct into the carb. I am at a loss? the temp gauge never gets hot?
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I have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
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M friend with his 98 gmc. When stopping the breaks are normal until getting slow then the abs motor comes on and the break pedal sinks to the floor. The truck stops but the abs motor runs constant until you release the pedal. This is happening on dry roads. What is there to check before condemning the abs module?
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I got a 2002 sierra 1500 with a 5.3l. I just replaced both catalytic converters and y pipe. After I did this, I am having a few problems. First, when slow down to park or at a stop sign the idle drops way down and it dies. I cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, and ran a can of seafoam and a can of b12 chemtool through it. It did this for a couple of days and now when the idle slows down the "check oil pressure" light comes on before it dies. Then yesterday the "check oil level" light started coming on. Is this all related, would the low idle cause low oil pressure, where to start?
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I noticed by mistake that its possible to engage "P" at slow speeds (3-4 mph?) Even at slower speeds the experience and effect was scary, its not like an emergency brake or hand brake stop but like chaining a dog to a stationary hook while running. Electronic and mechanical wise, whats happening when you push the "P" parking button. And why the Prius engineers allowed to set engaged other than just absolute stationary?
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My 1992 Dodge W150 truck skips when I am accelerating slowly from a stopped position. It is an automatic and seems to change gears properly. It skips between every gear change until you reach cruising speed. The skip does not occur or I do not notice it, if I accelerate rapidly. After I bought it, a mechanic installed new plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, dist cap, fuel filter and speed sensor. Truck has over 90,000 miles.
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1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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I recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
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I don't think it's possible but is there any way to stop this message from popping up in the info centre Every Single Time I exceed 30kmh while the locking diff is engaged? It's winter here on the Canadian prairies and roads are generally snow and ice covered where at live. Makes driving in town really annoying. On My '11 SD I only had to clear it once per drive cycle.
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I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I have a 4l60e transmission that was rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, I was driving on the highway when all gears were lost. There is clicking in the front part of transmission. Can I just replace pump? Fluid is clean no pieces in pan, are cluthes still good?
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When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2006 Gx 470, which is the wife's car.
Yesterday I couldn't drive the car when 4WD shifter was in neutral.
The transmission would not engage in R or D.
Same thing when the car was put in low for the 4WD shifter.
However, it seems to drive normally when the shifter is in H.
When I went to put the shifter in Park from either the low or Neutral position it would have a high grinding noise.
Car is in the shop as we speak.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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