I have a 1988 gmc c2500 with brake problems. the front brakes keep locking up both sides. Have replaced the calipers rotors pads and the brake lines. I can bleed them off and they release but has soon has you it the brakes they lock up again.
View 8 RepliesI just picked up a C2500 with the 350 and 250,000 miles on it. Looks like the brakes were redone in the past few years.
The problem is, whenever you stomp on the brakes, the rears lock up immediately. It will spin out easily in the rain and squeal like hell on dry pavement, so slow controlled stops are necessary.
I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesWhat would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
Replaced all components of front right braking system. Calipers rotor pads and hoses. Still, every other day or so the front right brakes gradually start locking up within minutes of driving.
I just bought car. I am stuck with this problem now. Only thing left i'm told is replacement of abs module.
Can you just bypass a faulty abs module instead of replacement?
Front and back brakes heating up and locking on intermittently brake pedal feels normal this has happened 3 times over the last 500 km of driving pedal not sticking down break fluid ok no swelled lines today noticed front left and rear right rotors were hotter than front right and rear left once vehicle sits they release and all is good no abs lights or any other warning lights on.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Forester, recently noticed the front brakes locking up, especially on hot days. Completely immobilized car, to get going again I would have to wait for them to cool and/or cool them with water if pads smoking from trying to drive with brakes engaged, and tap on calipers and master cylinder to allow pads to release. Problem got worse as it got hotter out, due to job I rarely drive car and didn't get in for service yet. Last time pads burned a whole lot and braking felt odd (less pressure and uneven like rotors were messed up or pads burned up).
Took it into brake place, they had never seen before. When they inspected, discs were in bad shape with one cracked, but I don't think that was original problem, just caused by driving with them hot. Shop at first said fluid seemed clean but I left and later they said it was contaminated but I don't trust them. Shop solution is replace everything: calipers, pads, hoses, flush system, and replace ABS (the most expensive part I am hoping isn't actually necessary). I don't trust shop for several reasons including because they admitted having never seen this and seemed content to take maximum amount of money just to replace everything without knowing what actual problem was.
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
View 9 Replies2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
After my coilover install there is a small knock coming from both sides in the front that wasn't there before..sounds and acts like a swaybar link but they don't have play and I replaced them and the noise is still there. I also reused the the shock tops?
View 4 RepliesAt low speed driving and hitting a small bump I hear a clunking noise in the front on both sides. But when driving at faster speeds and hitting a bump it makes no noise at all. I can't seem to figure out what it is.
View 5 RepliesDuring low speed parking manuvers with the steering wheel at extreme angles, car exhibits a snapping noise from the front end on both sides while braking.
2010 SC 430 Matador Red 30,000 miles.
I recently purchased 96 Toyota Tacoma 108 K miles. I discovered that it is totally missing all the front fender liners on both sides. Looking for info as to the number of parts needed for each side. No need to include the clips because they are bought by the 10 pack. Maybe how many 10 packs.
View 2 Replies2011 Isf with noise coming from the driver front and both sides rear. Have Bc coilovers, and checked them but they're good. Everything tight I double checked and torqued. I wanted to say it was tierods but tierods wouldn't make noise this is more of a rubbery thump. sounds like a boot or balljoints .
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I just bought 2006 f150 4wd . It make a grinding sound on both sides in the front end..it seems to be independent and when I slow and come to a stop, I makes a clanking noise like its locking something in.
View 4 Repliesim trying to lift my truck to clear 44's its a 88 f250 ext cab long bed, I will be using a dana 60 front and stearling 10 1/4 rear, if I get 6 inch lifted leafs front n back with my 3 inch body lift is 9 inchs enouph? If not will it be atleast high enough for 40s?
View 1 RepliesI noticed on my 03 excursion on both sides of the front axle there is a circle plastic o ring behind the u joint that is lose? Nothing is leaking and no signs of leak marks ever. Kind of looks lik a spacer ring of some sort because its at least 1/8th inch thick plastic. Also some time ago I posted about a whistling noise but never got a answer but its only there when im in 4wd there is a whistling noise from my right side and my locking hub when I turn it the hub seems lose and has a crunchy feeling to it. I just bought it a few weeks ago and now I am running into a whistling noise and noticed theres a piece of plastic that looks like a spacer....
View 14 RepliesI have had my 2011 model III for a month, and today I had to brake rather abruptly. I heard my tires squeal! Is this normal? I have owned at least two other vehicles with ABS, and I recall the pulsing of the pedal, but not tire squeal.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Saturn Vue that has an intermittent problem. After commuting for 50 miles and parking for the day, when I leave to go home by pulling forward out of the parking space, there is a loud metallic clang and the left rear wheel locks. When I step on the brakes to stop the car stops, but the rear wheel stays locked. When I press the brake pedal all the way down about half way down there is a difference in pressure on the pedal and the rear wheel releases. This will repeat up to three times. Has also happened after the 50 mile drive and stopped at store for 20 minutes. Will not repeat every time, and of course not when there is a mechanic is anywhere near the vehicle.
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