Saturn - Vue :: 2008 - Transmission Fluid Incorrectly Changed
Oct 10, 2014
I have a 2008 Saturn Vue SUV XR model, 3.6L V6. I currently have 85,000 miles and my transmission is on the fritz. I have been told by the dealer that I need some sort of rebuild, but the extent won't be known until they open it up and look.
I checked my records, and at 51,000 miles I had a transmission fluid exchange done by Pep Boys, and from my receipt it shows that they used CVT Fluid. I have confirmed that my transmission is NOT a CVT.
My question is, could this have caused the early breakdown of my transmission if in fact they did use the wrong fluid which I have been driving with for the past 35,000 miles?
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I have a 1998 Saturn with about 270,000 miles. Two weeks ago, I was shifting in and out of reverse and drive, trying to get out of a tight spot in my driveway. Suddenly, I heard some sputtering noises. The transmission started jamming and jarring, rather than shifting. I got out of the car and saw transmission fluid rapidly leaking all over the driveway. I put the car in park, turned it off, and haven't done anything for about two weeks because I had to go out of town.
Now that I'm back at home, I'm trying to assess the situation. I'm not sure if I should spend any money for a mechanic to even diagnose this car because it's only worth a few hundred dollars, if that. I figure that any diagnosis and repair work will probably far exceed the value of the car. I guess the worst case scenario is that the transmission is blown. I would not invest in a new or rebuilt transmission. I suppose the best case scenario is that this is merely a leak that might only require a $2-$300 repair. I don't think I could justify spending upwards of that, $400 or more, on this car.
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL2, about 183,00 miles on it. For about 6 months (maybe longer) the car doesn't want to reverse unless the engine is cold. When I start the car in the morning it reverses just fine but any other time throughout the day it won't. Well, it will if I give it a ton of gas and then it reverses VERY slowly.
There appears to be enough fluid in it, although I haven't changed the transmission fluid in a very long time. It's still that pink color.
I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on this car as this is just one of many problems (although probably the most severe). Will this might be fixed by getting the fluid changed or if it's a sign of a dying transmission with no hope of recovery?
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i have a 2003 saturn vue 2.2 liter engine that suddenly blew all the transmission fluid out the back. it looks like it is on the top of the transmission around some bolts up top on the drivers side, not on the bottom. could this be a seal or has the transmission blown?
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I have a 2004 4x4 with 305K on it. Never changed the transmission fluid and I think its slipping a bit.
Beentold that I should not change the fluid because the new fluid would somehow damage something and to just not worry about it.
So OK to change the fluid or not?
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What is the range is on these temps. Reason I ask is because long story short My truck did not come with a factory tow package and I have added the hitch and seven pin wiring, I am lacking the HD trans cooler. Recently purchased a travel trailer and am a little worried about getting the tranny too hot. I have an Edge tuner and set the gauge to read tranny fluid temp. Without the trailer I have been seeing temps that range in the 130's to 150's, with the trailer I have been seeing temps in the high 160's, with a spike to 176 when going up a hill. I plan to add the tranny cooler but cash is little tight at the moment. Just wondering how hot is too hot.
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My dad's truck recently started leaking transmission fluid and we're having trouble identifying what needs to be replaced, here is a picture of where it's leaking from.
2005 Ford F-150, 5.4L Engine...
Fluid is leaking from the rear end of the transmission. The black stuff is some instant weld fluid...
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I drive an 06 Sonata with the 2.4L. I have put about 25,000 miles on the car and since then I have changed the tranny fluid 3 times due to it shifting rough. I will change the fluid and it will shift smooth for about 2 or 3 months then it will start to shift roughly again. What I could do or what the problem could be?
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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2003 - I tried to change the brake fluid with a MityVac. I've done it to dozens of cars with no problem. With the Prius it didn't take it well as I have to pump the pedal sometimes to stop or the pedal goes way down. Only now I read about how a special Toyota scan tool is recommended to do it. Is there any other way? I only really did the front brakes since after trying one rear wheel cylinder and getting nothing out of it, I quit. The dealer wants $165 and I'm sure that doesn't include any extra shop fees and such they tack on. What other way can I try before taking it in?
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I have a 99 Sentra 217500 miles 1.6 auto: I changed the trans fluid, and now have a bearing noise on the driver's side. The car shifted ok, but would stay locked up coming from drive to a stop.The fluid had been changed a couple times, before I got the car @195000, but was now very greyish looking, not burnt or black. I drained and then used the car to pump 8 quarts total (keeping it filled) The car runs and shifts fine, but now I have a 'tire like noise' driver's side. I jacked up each front wheel and ran the car in drive. the noise only came from the drivers side. I think it is a coincidence and am having the car checked on mon.
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As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
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Flipped to the app screen in the center display, I think most refer to it as the "off-road" screen. Anyway was descending a 4% grade, when it showed 17% once I got down to level ground it never went back to 0% and stayed at 7% even on level ground.
Going to disconnect battery and let sit for 10-20 minutes and re-check. Where the control box, is located for this feature? Not really a big deal, but I would expect the feature to function properly at 6k miles. Put 32k miles on my 2011, with same feature and it wasn't a problem ever.
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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So, I have a 2009 Golf City (Canadian mk4.5) with the 09G 6 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission. It's at 80k kilometers and shifting fine, I can remember maybe one 1-2 slip bump a few weeks ago but that's it. Shifts in Drive, Sport or Tiptronic are smooth and forced downshifts are smooth as well. I do want to follow the US service interval of 40k miles, and of course, my dealership won't do anything with this transmission unless it's broken because "Your fluid lasts the life of the car sir!" That, of course, we all know is BS because every transmission wears, and I don't want millions little metal shards of hardened steel having a party on the inside of my transmission.
This being said, I know that you can do a pan out filter and fluid change, but your only getting about 5L of fluid of the 9L that the 09G has. Or I can pay a local trans shop to do a full flush without dropping the pan by tapping into the in/out fluid ports and flushing everything out. My worry about a flush is that it will take these little anarchist metal shards and put them in a spot where they get stuck and have an all out project X-style party with my solenoids, gears, and torque converter. And the filter still won't have been changed!
Or I do the former where I get the ECS Tuning kit, drop the pan and clean out these little bastards and put in a new filter and not worry about the last 4L of fluid that still might have some of these buggers in it...
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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5.8L C6 .... I can't get a good reading on my transmission fluid level. When the truck is cold the level is well above (2") the checkered area.
When the truck is hot, I can't read the dipstick. It either has a little bit of oil well above the checkered area, or there isn't enough in the transmission to register.
How to get an accurate reading?
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I'm shopping for an older used VUE. I have a 2005 with the V-6 and five speed auto. I need to know how to identify a VTi. Did all the fours come with them through 2005? Last dealer I talked to said he couldn't find a transmission dipstick and this would tell me it was a VTi. Is there a database on GM or anywhere fr cars that had transmissions swapped out that I can search by VIN?
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Why my vue manual tranny only goes in first third and fifth . Can't get it in second fourth or reverse . Bought it like that .
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My transmission seems to be slipping a little, but not regularly and when tested by the mechanic it shows no transmission problem. He did point out that the fluid was really black and had specks of metal in it. However, he suggested that I not replace the fluid because it has been experience that people change out the fluid and then their transmission fails. He's a mechanic I've never used before, but don't know if I should trust his assessment. I've owned the car its entire life and it only has 89,000 miles on it, primarily in San Francisco, and I'd like to get a lot more miles out of it.
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I changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
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