07 saturn vue, 4cyl motor, auto trans. torque conv occasionally will not unlock so motor will stall at stop. a used trans is quite cheap for these rigs. and they come with the TC. would a new TC fix this issue? or is it more of an issue of worn seals inside trans? i would hate to spend 200 on new TC and not touch trans when i can get a lower mile used unit.
View 4 RepliesRecently my car has stalled on me when I've stopped at stop lights. The radio stays on, but I think it's just the engine that turns off. I have to turn the car compleltly off and then on again. It sometimes takes a few tries, but it does turn on again and I am able to drive it again. I have taken it to a repair shop twice now and both times they've said they cant replicate the problem and cant seem to figure out whats wrong. They have scanned my car and I was told they didnt get any codes telling them of the problem.
View 1 RepliesMy 2009 Mazda Cx-9 stalls intermittently after stopping, usually at red lights. It will start back up, and no problem. The steering wheel will lock when this happens. Also on the highway, it will buck/lurch but keeps going. The engine light never comes on so the repair shop cannot seem tell me the cause of the problem. It doesn't happen everyday, and has been happening since I bought the car 18 months ago. However, in the last two days, it has stalled six times. The repair shop today says that they need to do a throttle (?) clean and that "should" clean it up. But I don't know... what do you think?There isn't a noise I can tape, because alas, there is no noise !
View 4 RepliesI've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Saturn Vue, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. For the last two years when ever I fill up with gasoline (doesn't matter if I get a gallon or 10 gallons), when I start the car after getting the gas it immediately stalls. When I attempt to restart it, it takes about 10 seconds before it will catch and start. It does not stall or not start at any other time. I have taken it in to be checked, the computer shows them a few code errors but they can not find the problem to match it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
The alarm on my 07 Elantra is going off and I tried disconnecting the battery to no avail. What can I do to stop it from going off an keeping me from driving the car?
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that my Camry has seemed especially sluggish when it starts from a stopping position. The acceleration just seems slow, but it gets better once I get up in speed. My first instinct was the transmission, but the fluid level is fine and I'm not really feeling that 'slipping' feeling. I noticed that my tires are very worn (not bald, but certainly worn to the point where I want them replaced), so I'm planning to get those replaced. However, I'd like to know a little more information so I know what to expect when I go into the shop.
1) Could the worn tires contribute to the dragging feeling that car has when it starts to accelerate?2) I've also heard noises almost like a rumble shortly after I stop at a light, and rarely when I make any turns. I'm going to have them check the brakes and all, but the brakes seem fine and I never hear that noise when I step on them, only the two scenarios described. Could the worn tires be responsible for that sound too?
I guess ultimately I'm curious what sounds/issues a car could have as a result of worn tires (other than the obvious risks of wet roads, blown tires, fuel economy, etc).
My 2007 Prius, 181189 miles, made a crunching sound when I left the freeway this am while stopping. No shaking, vibration or noises while going at speed.
When first accelerating I hear a crunch then clicking. This happened at each stop until I parked. Sounds fine when going in reverse.
I am at work and am wondering if I need a tow truck or try to drive 75 miles home tonight?
What the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
View 4 RepliesI installed a set of Brake Performance rotors ( slotted ) with premium ceramic pads and have had a bit of strange stuff going on from day one. When I first got them installed there would be a mild grinding or rough feeling when stopping. It got better over the first couple of day but was still there. I also notice a loud whirling or humming noise when I stop from high speeds. I called brake performance and they saids that it may be that the ceramic pad is to hard for the system. It sounded a little odd. The weather in AZ finally hit 77 yesterday so I have been driving with the windows down and have been noticing more of the grinding sound even when the brakes are not pressed.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Saturn Relay with what seems like a bad seat heating element in the lower part of the seat. Is this something that an average mechanic can change out or is it something that must be changed out by an upholstery shop?
View 2 RepliesI was recently left stranded in a mall parking lot by my 2007 Saturn Ion when it wouldn't start. After getting a jump from roadside assistance, I was told the battery needed to be replaced. I thought nothing of it since its a 2007 and has been driven between Virginia and Pennsylvania for the past four years fairly regularly. After a new battery was installed Sunday afternoon and the car started perfectly and was driven around all day Monday, I was shocked when I was once again left stranded in the parking lot at work Tuesday afternoon, again with a car that wouldn't start at all (there was no "clicking" either). The keys would get stuck in the ignition and I'd have to remove them by pushing the tiny button under the steering wheel. The new battery was tested again at the shop and they found nothing wrong with it and couldn't explain why it wouldn't start at all the previous afternoon but started and ran fine two days prior.
View 4 RepliesI took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
View 15 Replies11 months and 3 weeks ago a mechanic I trust replaced my a/c. Two weeks later I rear-ended another car.
There was minor cosmetic damage but it ran as before. A week after that began the record setting Texas summer heat wave and my car got so hot the mirror gauge registered 125 in a fast food line. This is the only time it got that hot. Once we got moving everything seemed fine.
A couple of days later the a/c ran for about 10 minutes then stopped. Slowly the time the unit cooled decreased until it stopped working. I took the car back to the mechanic. He stated the pressure measured up to 100 psi and the temperature was above the rating for the a/c system.
He fixed a short in the radiator/engine fan, the temperature problem never returned and the pressures were high but my a/c worked.
At first the a/c seemed to work fine but then it began to work only sometimes. When it did work it would sometimes work in "hybrid" mode which you Saturn owners recognize as cooling at the reduced level that saves gas in stop and go traffic -- or not at all as we say in TX.
I took it back. The mechanic now explained the I'd voided the warranty because the short in the radiator fan allowed the car and a/c system to get too hot. The high heat had burned some sort of internal valve in the compressor.
The valve is unreliable. The performance of the a/c is mainly temperature dependent. The hotter the day the less likely the a/c will produce enough of a pressure difference to open this valve. Warm days the system will probably cool. Hot days it will probably not.
Being a CarTalk listener and an former nerd I thought of and tried a way to magnify the pressure difference using rpm. It works but the hotter the day the higher and longer I have to rev the engine. Now I'm burning oil for the fist time ever. Did I cripple my air conditioner or does my trusted mechanic learn a little to little when he learned to repair my hybrid a/c system?
I have a 2007 Saturn Relay with heated seats. One of the seat heaters has quit working and now the other one gets super hot after it is turned on for a while. What is causing the seat to get super hot? I don't want to burn up anything.
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid has started to sound like a muscle car when I accelerate and maintain speeds over 20 mph. The RPMs are appropriate, there are no idiot lights on, and the battery appears to be behaving as usual. Also, the dash and radio lights dim and/or blink out intermittently.
View 2 RepliesThe key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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