There are two 12V power outlets inside my 2005 Saturn VUE. They always have power available, whether the car is on or not. I'd like to change that. Is there an easy (or somewhat easy) way to make it so that the outlets only deliver power when the ignition switch is in the on position?
View 2 RepliesThe key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
View 7 RepliesNone of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (Magnum Series); 5.9l, 2WD, 8cyl. After 2 months the transmission went out. I bought a used transmission and had a shop install it. When I picked it up (10-3-14) the mechanic pointed out the shifter is one notch off (ie. in R position its in Park, in N position its in Reverse, etc). In addition it no longer has D1 nor D2 (putting the shift in D-D2 position results in Drive only, no power gears). The mechanic said it was something in the steering column causing the shift display to be off and had no explanation to why there were no power gears.
To make matters worse, the ignition switch no longer reverts to the Off position; the key can be removed but the switch stays On, warning alarm for key being in ignition comes On etc. I admit the ignition switch was old and the switch would sometimes not turn over before the transmission was replaced. He blamed something in the column again. So,
Q1-Is the mechanic correct there is something wrong in the column and not a misalignment he caused when he installed the replacement transmission causing the shifter to be misaligned?
Q2-Why doesn't the truck have D1-D2 gears? Do some transmissions not have these or am I missing something?
Q3-Is the most likely problem to the ignition the ignition switch or solenoid? Or could he have damaged something during the transmission installation? (I ask the latter because he took a panel off under the steering column while installing the replacement transmission.)
My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
View 6 Replies2005 camry ... Suddenly no power to auxiliary outlets. Ignition switch sends power to fuse 25. Swapped fuse to be double sure. No power at outlet.
View 14 Replies2005 camry
The auxiliary power outlets suddenly went dead. I swapped fuse with no luck.
The ign switch provides power to fuse 25
2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
View 3 RepliesI have a Pontiac Montana 1999 with power window problem. After troubleshooting I found that the switch was defective on the up position. I was told that this problem is common on this type of car.
View 8 RepliesWell I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
View 7 RepliesWent to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 RepliesJust wondering if leaving the key in the ignition in the lock position causes the car to draw power from the battery.
View 6 RepliesI would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
When I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
View 14 RepliesIs it possible to enable the outlets in the center console to be powered with the car turned off in an '05 Avalon?
View 4 RepliesNeed to locate the fuse for the power seats in an 07 Toyota Avalon. The seat has been stuck in an uncomfortable position for a while. Id like to check the fuse before removing the entire seat to look at the motor. Dealer wants $200 for this info.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2005 prius with 71,000 miles, DVD nav and etc. Just 2 days ago the 120v cigarette outlet stopped working, then tried the one in the center counsel and it worked for like a second. Now both don't work.
Did research and heard it could be fuses. Replaces both 15A fuses that are under the driver side dash/steering wheel section. Still outlets will not work. Tried replacing the 25a fuse that I saw works in conjunction with both 15a and still nothing. I then read in some toyotas, and other cars that the outlet itself can be shorted out.
So question, is there some other fuse I'm missing, or something else to check. I tried pushing the connectors on the front passenger outlet to see if they were loose and still won't work. Do I need to replace the outlet itself. Can I just get a new one and unplug the old and plug a new one in. Looks like it comes right out? I need at least one outlet to work and am short on cash to have the dealer do it.