Saturn Vue :: 2004 Misfires With Click And Clunk
May 11, 2013
Have had the plugs replaced....timing checked....it will misfire just going down the road....mechanics can not fix it.....Click and Clack for being there!...
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May 11, 2013
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Lexus RX 2004-09 :: 2007 - Mysterious Clunk / Click Noise When Turning
My RX350 is a 2007. Recently replaced the two front struts and noticed the passenger side is exhibiting this peculiar clunking/clicking/popping sound when turning. It mostly happens when turning in motion but once in a while when parked. Clunk/click sound usually only occurs once, or in a short series of 2-3 times, during turning.
Video of this clunk/click while parked : [URL] ....
Noise is almost silent at the strut mount/bearing, so I suspect it's lower in the assembly. Can feel the clunk/pop vibration with hand placed on the lower spring seat.
Took the tire off and thoroughly inspected things. No tears/leaks in any joint sleeves/bushings. Tie rods and CV joint look fine, as do strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, insulator, rubber bumper, sleeve, and spring. None of these were replaced during the strut replacement as everything looked great and with only 55k miles.
I've not been able to reproduce the issue with the engine off, nor when the tire is off the ground when jacked/lifted.
During Google searches, it was suggested the culprit is likely either the strut mount/bearing or CV joint. We removed the strut today and everything looks the same as during the install. We can't reproduce the sound with just moving the knuckle around with the strut removed. Strut mount/bearings look in excellent condition.
Lexus LS 2007+ :: When Downshifting From Second To First Click Or Clunk Sound
I have a 07 Ls460. When downshifting from second to first there is a click that is sometimes a clunk. Lexus has replaced the trans with no change. They have cleaned and lubricated rear suspension bolts and replaced the rear shocks and springs and the differential mount. Again, no change.
This started at about 80k and continues at 123k. They have checked motor mounts, transmission mount and repacked the driveshaft spline. When the car is lifted into the air and the weight is off the suspension the noise will go away for a few days.
This noise has also been heard occasionally when rolling off the gas between 20/30 mph and then reapplying throttle. Lexus mechanics and area reps are at a loss to diagnosis. I have driven a 2008 loaner and it had the same noise.
Explorer :: 2016 XLT 4WD With Light Clunk Sound / Click On Acceleration
2016 Explorer XLT 4WD light Clunk Sound Problem. I purchased a brand 2016 explorer brand 2016 explorer
and since new it has a light clunk sound and you feel a click on [URL] .... when accelerating in Drive out of Park. Brought it to the dealership and they don't know what the issue is.
Steps to Recreate:
1) From Park put the vehicle in Drive
2) Start accelerating in forward motion and I hear a clunk/click sound and feel it in the gas pedal.
The problem does not occur in that driving session unless you put the vehicle in park again and then back to Drive. Just to clarify its when you start moving you feel the clunk.
Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Click / Clunk In Front Brakes On Passenger Side
I have a click/clunk in my front brakes, passenger side. Happens mostly braking and turning right into my driveway. It was recently attributed to a strut bearing, but this was not the case, and their replacement didn't fix the problem.
Dealer has said it's a common noise and occurs after service. The only way to stop the noise is to stop lubing the calipers so they drag.
I say they are full of crap. This has now been going on at least 30k km. I have documented it on every oil change that I can remember (always at the dealer). Any way I should be handling it?
Saturn - SL1 :: 2001 - Intermittent No Crank Or Start / Single Audible Click Occurred When Key Turned
2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
Saturn :: 1995 - Making Click Clack Noise While Accelerating Or Driving After Shuts Off Completely?
I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
View 2 RepliesCorolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Front Brakes Click / Clunk Noise When In Reverse?
I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
Grand Prix :: 2000 GTP No Pressure In Fuel Line - Click Or Clunk Noise In Gas Tank
It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
Prius (2004-09) :: Misfires On Cylinder 1 And 3, Now 2 And 4
2005 Prius 195k miles, oil changes every 5k +/- 500 (usually minus), new plugs at about 187k, TSBs for coolant loop done, coolant valve for ICE replaced on my dime, replaced aux battery in 2010. Transaxle fluid changed at 100k and 190k due to noise, but that is another post.
I mostly do my own work because, in general, I find dealerships to charge too much (like one hour to change the aux battery) or not competent (like changing the traction battery under warranty but leaving the seat belt behind the panel or not resetting the maintenance light during 5k Toyota covered maintenance)
Ford - F150 :: 2004 - Cylinder 5 And 6 Misfires?
I have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Random Misfires In Almost Every Cylinder
I have an 05 Lariat with 145k miles on it. About a month ago I had a misfire code on one cylinder. Since then it's gone from once every couple of days, various cylinders. To now every day. I've had to continue driving it but the last few days it's gotten bad and I hope I didn't do any more damage(cats) but I didn't have a whole lot of choice. I've read every thread I can find and haven't found an exact match. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning, it will be down on power for a few seconds then clear up. It may not return for another 10 or 15 minutes and then cough a little and clear up.
Sometimes it will start at the beginning of a hill and not clear up until I'm back on flat, sometimes it will lose power at the top. There is zero predictability to it. I have had codes on almost every cylinder, but no single one has dominated the problem. Twice when it has been real bad I have also gotten a lean code 0174. It had new Motorcraft plugs 25000 miles ago and has run fine until recently. The ticking isn't too bad but I think I'm going to try thicker oil for the summer. It's been a while since I did the fuel filter and since it probably isn't a bad idea I'm going to do that today.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Strong Misfires Under Load
I have a 2005 F150 with 5.4 and have been having increasing random misfires. This is MUCH more pronounced when the engine is warm, and I can certainly count on it to happen when under load, either accelerating or whatever. If I am forced to remain stopped for any extended period of time, such as waiting in line at a drive through, then start to drive again, the problem seems to increase exponentially, and is most pronounced in the 1300 - 1900 RPM range. If I take the overdrive off in order to put the rev's above 2000, it eases the problem, but does not eliminate it. The issue is much LESS pronounced when first starting driving, it seems to be most prominent only after it warms up.
So far, the only codes I have ever seen is random misfires, and only once has the code gone solid in the ECM. Usually, if I back off load for a minute, it clears up on it's own and the flashing code light clears .... If I attempt to accelerate hard, even when cold, the misfires get really bad and I can always expect a hard code soon afterwards ...... needless to say, I have no real power at any time, and my fuel efficiency is beyond bad (best I can get is about 11 mpg) ....
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 Chugging Like A Tractor / Exhaust Also Spits And Misfires
My problems started at the beginning of the year when my car for no reason would cut out each time i slowed down. Had a minor service done and it seems to have gotten worse. It now chugs like a tractor.
I have replaced/done:
Sparks
Coil pack
Fuel filter
Battery
Drive belts
Coil leads
Oil pickup filter
oil filter , New oil
I have also taken out the Crankshaft sensor and its fine.
Today i struggled to get my car home because it chugged that hard it felt like the car was going to stall. Its an automatic. I left it running in my drive way for about 10 minutes and it cut out, but it started back up straight away. It still continued chugging. The exhaust also spits and misfires.
Touareg :: 2004 Misfires - Rough Idle And Hesitating / Shaking Under Acceleration
It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
Camry :: 2004 Click Once And Won't Start Sometimes
I have an 04 Camry with a one year old battery. Twice now, about 6 weeks apart, when I tried to start it in the morning, it clicks once and that is all. I popped the hood, jiggled each battery cable (they're not loose, but I still jiggled the post area) and then it starts. The presets on the radio are gone, as if the battery were dead. Also...a couple of days before it happens, the idle is very rough, almost as if it's going to stall. But after an "episode" the idle is back to about 750 rpm and very smooth.
View 6 RepliesCamry :: 2004 V6 Not Starting When Hot / No Click Noise
2004 Camry V6 3.0L with 136k miles.
History: The original starter was replaced with an OEM Toyota starter about at 60k miles.
Current Situation: When I try to restart the engine (after just a few minutes after turning the engine off) it won't start and I get no starter solenoid click noise at all. (The battery is strong and fresh.) Multiple tries of turning the ignition switch results in no solenoid click noise and no starter engaging the flywheel or engine cranking. However, after the car sits for 15-30 minutes it can be started right up without any hint there was ever a problem.
When I touch my fingertips to the Starter Relay in the engine bay fuse box and have someone try to start the engine (when it does nothing - e.g. no start) I can feel and faintly hear the relay's contacts making/breaking (closing/opening), so I think it's safe to say the relay is good.
I think I recall that the original starter/solenoid just stopped working all-together and didn't do this intermittent act.
Starter/solenoid not work at all (not even a click noise) when the engine is hot, but it does eventually work perfectly after it cools off a bit? I've never had one act like that before, that I recall. I can only guess that maybe the starter's solenoid is failing and needs to be replaced. Yes? No?
Lexus RX 2004-09 :: RX400 Air Vents Won't Click Down
Why these air vents will not lock down. No matter how hard I push down, they will not lock. Check out the pictures, if this doesn't make sense. Notice the driver-side vent is perfect.
Stays elevated and won't click down.
Taking the air vent piece off.
Same thing with the windshield defroster.
Lifting up the defroster.
The driver-side.
Prius (2004-09) :: Unlock All The Doors With One Click Of FOB
Any way to program my Prius to unlock all the doors with one click of the FOB?
View 10 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2004 V6 - No Start But Click When Turn The Key
My 2004 Honda Accord V6 got a new Diehard in 10/2010. AAA says it is not the battery or the starter. When I turn the key there is a click and all the electrical components turn on. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesSaturn :: 2004 Ion Running Very Hot When AC Is On
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with about 189,000 miles. Recently the car has been running very hot when AC is on and the car is idling or in traffic. When I stop for about 30 seconds ill hear something click on, the AC will start to blow warm air, the engine will heat up and the car has a tendency to jump forward. When I start driving again the AC will cool off but the engine takes a while to cool back down. When it jumps forward, the RPM's shoot up and it jumps forward about a foot. I recently had it inspected and looked at by a mechanic, but this was over the winter when there was no need to use the AC.
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