Saturn :: Throttle Moves By Itself / Arrow Of Temp Indicator Goes Up And Down Randomly
Jul 3, 2011
The throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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When I am in 6th gear (this only happens in 6th) the shifter kicks forward (towards the front of the car) about a quarter inch when I let off of the gas. When I press the gas again the shifter kicks back (towards the back of the car) a quarter inch.
I believe that this is caused by the haldex disengaging, because no matter how slowly I let off of the throttle, the kick is the same strength (or force? dont really know how to describe it). I was wondering if this is normal, or if I should get it checked out?
When I searched the only thing that came up was checking the mounts. I'm not sure this is the solution to my problem since this ONLY happens when I am in 6th gear, all other gears feel solid.
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 5-Speed, with 2.3 engine. My temp gauge hardly moves at all... It actually appears as if it doesn't move it you don't pay close attention and were to just glance at it. I'm thinking it is most likely the temp sensor that is on the engine block as I understand there is also one that is in the line that controls the fans for the radiator. Am I approaching this in the right direction or is there something else I might need to do?
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Having throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
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My RX350 is over 4yrs old with 105k km on it. I notice lately when I drive off the seat moves back a bit and when braking hard it moves forwards. It is about quarter of an inch movement but it is noticeable. I guess it is not under warranty now. I looked under the seat but can not find where this is coming from, I am assuming it must be a loose bolt that needs to be tightened.
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Saturn Ion 2003. Whenever I park the car and proceed to turn it off, all of the indicator needle lock into place and the entire car goes dead. Unable to use remote and when I attempt to place the key back into the cylinder to 'start' the vehicle, nothing occurs. Key is then stuck as it will not turn back past ACC. I have done tons of research and found a way to manually release the key but this doesn't resolve the lockdown. After a moment, the security light will display on the dashboard. I have tried just about everything including jumping the battery, only works until car is turned off, and making sure gear shift fully in 'park'. Have completed all recall notices from GM regarding ignition cylinder and the likes as well as a new alternator, twice. During the last jump, mechanic ran full diagnostics for battery, electrical, alternator and output.
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2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
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I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
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For about the last two years or so, my 2001 Saturn SC2 will every once in awhile not start up. I looked at the several posts about this, but my problem seems different...my starter turns, the engine starts, but only stays on for a fraction of a second (it dies right away). Usually I wait for 10-30 minutes, and then I try again, and it starts up normal. Nobody seems to know what's wrong with the car, it always starts fine for the mechanics.
I haven't found any consistency with the weather, time of day, or how much I've been driving it. Also, the time in between non-starts is not regular - it has happened 3 times in one week, and then I didn't have a problem for months. It is truly random. I highly doubt its a battery problem - I've listened to the radio waiting for my car to start! It is starting to get SO frustrating - I am afraid to turn off my car because I'm not sure it will start again!
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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while driving outside temperature indicator went down to 25 (its about 70 outside) 5 min after my dashboard went blank.? Car is running fine, radio works.. (its 06, 2.0T)
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Over the past month I've had an issue with my car randomly losing power/losing throttle. When this happens the car acts as if its lost power, and I have no throttle at all. That said everything electronic on the car is still on in terms of radio, heat, seat warmers, low beams; but on the dash the battery indicator is illuminated. The way I've found to "fix"this is either to brake and pull over and put the car in park and restart it, or while moving shift into neutral and push the key forward to "start" the car again. I've also had this happen back to back, meaning that I restart the car and when I go to accelerate the throttle cuts out and the car acts in the same fashion where it dies and I have to restart it again. The times this has happened there hasn't been any sort of common factor attributed to it and honestly I'm at a loss for what could be causing the issue. The car does have an APR stage 2 tune but other than that nothing electronic really done to it.
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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So at 3 months and 4700 miles on the OD my car threw an over temp indicator driving to work. 5:30 am about 60-65 degrees with a passenger driving over the Santa Susana grade which is a 2 1/2 or so mile grade it starts showing the over temp indicator.
I had not plugged in the night before and had only been in the car for about 7 minutes. I was driving somewhere around 70 miles an hour and that ICE was screaming like it always does. As I backed off the throttle the lamp went out and I cruised it to work. I checked under the hood at work and sure enough it had spewed coolant around the pressurized coolant tank.
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Driving home from work today, normal day in the high 60s, my temp gauge randomly stopped working. It was right at the 190 mark where it should be then a few miles from my house it just dropped to 0. When I got to my house and turned it off the fans stayed on for quite a few minutes.
I went inside and looked around on a few different forums. Most people said it was the thermostat or some sensor that could have crapped out.
Probably 30 minutes later I went out to restart it hoping the problem magically disappeared and it actually did. Start up and went straight up to 190 as it should. Turned it off to no fans as usual.
What this could be? Could it just be a sensor on the way out? Still under warranty so might try calling the dealer tomorrow when they open to ask for their input.
Just as reference my car is a 2011 with about 48k and is revo stage 1 for about 3k.
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2010 Tiguan S FWD
My coolant temp light comes on randomly. It blinks and a sound beeps three times. After it stops beeping, the light continues to blink.
It doesn't come on all the time. It is very random. I connected the VAG-COM to see if there were any stored faults, but there were none.
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My 2014 GX has been great except for one annoying problem; with BSM mode enabled, the passenger side BSM indicator randomly lights solid when driving down the road with NO vehicles around me (driver side indicator works perfectly 100% of the time). Does not appear to be correlated to temperature, day/night, humidity, speed, or conditions mentioned in the manual. Other current RX and GX owners I know don't seem to have the issue.
Can the BSM system be calibrated or is the detection program burned into the individual sensors and control module such that the system cannot be re-calibrated? Does a GX BSM system publication exist? I have several photos illustrating the problem. Reported to dealer. The dealers conversation with Lexus was that it is not a perfect system with no explanation as to why one side would have the issue but the other wouldn't. Below is the online reference that Lexus provides. The BSM feature is a very nice one except for this intermittent issue.
Link to Lexus Driver's Online Manual - BSM (Blind Spot Monitor) section pg 347 - 356. [URL] .....
FCC ID : OAYSRR2A Link to document detailing BSM [URL]...
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