I have a 1996 Saturn SW2. When I turn hard left at a bit of speed (like about 20 mph), the left read end of my car makes a BOING sound... what could be causing this??
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 saturn l200. On monday I went outside to start the car and I heard clicking sound coming from motor. I did have a new battery put in. As so I push on the gas a little bit I hear it clicking as soon the car warms up its stop clicking and i did have a oil change done...
View 5 RepliesThis car makes this grinding sound whenever you first start the car in the morning on a cold day and take a left turn. After 5 minutes it won't do it anymore. I can't tell if it's coming from the transmission but that's what one mechanic said. He said it was the transmission but he couldn't target where. His first diagnoses was the struts but that proved incorrect so I'm taking what he says with a grain of salt.
VIDEO WITH SOUND : [URL]......
This car has the notorious GM lawsuit CVT transmission..
We got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
View 18 RepliesWhen maneuvering our LS forward or back, we hear a BONG sound as if you were plucking a violin. The Lexus dealer says it's due to the fact that the accelerator pedal is designed differently from previous versions. Why should we be satisfied with an LS460 that makes constant noises!!!
View 2 RepliesSo I've been driving my 3GS 350 and every time i make a right turn the left wheel makes this metal shaking sound? or scraping sound? I've checked it out seems like nothings in the way but I don't know how to tell if i have a bad wheel bearing..
View 9 RepliesMy 2003 Jetta GLI was making a terrible grinding/knocking noise when i would turn and occasionally make this "Bong" sound especially when reversing. I took it to my local shop and they say my spring in the front left is "either broken or unattached" and that i need spings/struts. I have like 150k miles on this car so the timing is probably right. So my question is, how much should they charge for this? Also, what should i have them order and install? Im not trying to lower or anything like that, OEM or a slight upgrade is what im looking for....
View 9 RepliesOn my 2012 F150 Supercrew 4x4, when I'm entering parking lots, or other places where I'm turning and going over bumps at the same time, the front suspension make a fairly loud sound. It seems to be much worse when turning left, and the sound comes from the Passenger front side, I think.
The sound is a fairly sharp "snap" or "crack" or maybe even a "bong" kind of thing. So all you keyboard mechanics. As a bonus question, once we have guessed what it is, can I fix it myself with hand tools and very little mechanical aptitude?
I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
View 7 RepliesSo i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
View 3 RepliesHow do you clear the engine codes on a 1996 Saturn SL-2? I thought disconnecting the battery for more than ten seconds did this or do I need a special tool inserted into the diagnostic port under the dash?
View 8 Repliesi have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
View 6 RepliesMy sis was driving her 96 saturn SL and she was at a red light, then the car just stopped on her and it wouldn't start back up. I had came to push the car to the side of the road to see what the problem was. When I tried to start it, I could hear 1 click. All the lights came on, on the dash but it wouldn't start. I tried to give it a jump but that didnt work. I checked the oil and the oil was really low. There was no oil showing up on the dipstick. So I put in about 4 quarts of oil.
The car still wouldn't start. So I had it towed. The mechanic said that my sis would need another engine for her car. Would really low oil cause someone to need another engine for a car. My sis had just got a oil change about 2 weeks before this happened. I use to drive her car about 5 years ago and it use to burn a quart between oil changes but what would cause the engine to loose so much oil in about 2 weeks. I don't know if there was a oil leak and the oil light did come on the night before her car broke down. I had a starter put in about 4 years ago.
My car stopped starting reliably last winter. Since my driveway is on a hill and I have a clutch, I'd roll back and pop the clutch to start it (or just make the kids push - it builds character, right?). I finally broke down and put a new battery in it about a month ago. It still occasionally won't start. It seems worse if the weather is chilly. When it fails to start, the engine will turn over a few times, slower and slower each time, and then die. If I turn the key again right away, nothing - just the "click." If I wait about 2 minutes, it roars to life like nothing ever happened. Doesn't seem like an alternator problem. It's green.
View 1 RepliesI have a 96 saturn sl2. It was running ok, but recently it started to idle rough and it revs up when i change gears and then when i release the clutch it drops down and remains about 1200 rpm. Pretty much while I press on the brakes to stop, and press the clutch to get on neutral,the rpm shoots up and slowly goes back down.
Also when I start the car it feels like its revving, but my foot is on the brake and the car is on neutral.Also no matter how much I've driven it, I can go into first and 2nd gear w/out having to press the accelerator and it will start to move. the rpm will remain @ about 1000 to 1200. The check engine light is not on and the car seems to be using up more gas.
I'm considering changing the plugs and wires, gas filter to see if it s. I noticed oil leaking a little around the valve cover, so I may change that too.
My daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
View 2 RepliesOn my xl-7 upon turning left it makes a poppping noise, its real bad at complete stops,its almost like a cv axle noise. Ive taken it to the dealer at least 8 times and they replaced struts , but it still makes this noise.I also called the main Suzuki customer office and complained. They told me its just one of the characteristics of the new Xl7.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. When I'm going at some speed (not from a stop) to the left (like on a curve), I hear a high-pitch squeaky/squealing noise. It's not one long continuous noise, but more like chk, chk, chk, etc. and high in pitch. It doesn't happen when I'm going to the right. And I don't hear it if I'm going very slowly, such as turning left from a complete stop.
What this might be?
Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?