Saturn - SW2 :: 1994 - Leaking Low Pressure A/C Port
Jun 9, 2012
I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I have owned my Saturn Outlook XR (2008) for a short 2 months. My a/c stopped working about 3 weeks ago. Replaced the blower motor and air would then blow again but the a/c still does not work. Had a mechanic look at the vehicle for me and turns out that I have that haunting saturn outlook hose rubbing together causing a leak problem that so many of you have also experienced. My low pressure line is leaking. My mechanic explained what an extensive project this is, not due to the actual parts, but, the labor to reach this hose then replace it. I am not thrilled about this problem. I do not want to be paying more money out of my pocket to fix a vehicle that I haven't owned long enough to have these kinds of expenses. This clearly is an issue in more than just my vehicle and GM is not taking responsibility for this poor placement/planning of the hoses and recalling this part.
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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I have a 1994 Porsche 968 and I can not find the lowside AC charge port. Where it is?
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I noticed this on my A3... This weekend I was working on the car and heard air leaking somewhere when the car was on. I pinpoint the leak on the upper left side of the engine where to my guess is a vacuum port. This hose leads to the brake booster. Apparently it's a plastic hose and it had split open near the port. I cut out a section of it and used some coolant hose I had laying around from my MKIV gti. Just thought I let you 3.2's know in case you want to check it out.
What is the function of this? is it to provide vacuum to the brakes? I pulled the hose while the engine was running and it wanted to die just to see if it would cause any issues. Also I may add that before this I've had some engine stuttering at idle where the rpm needle would fluctuate from like 600 rpm to 500 rpm and back up at times and that after replacing that bad section of hose it seems to have corrected that issue as well. I know there have been some stuttering issues around here and have heard that replacing the battery has worked at times.
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My son has an 01 LeSabre Custom with 87k. He says the a/c isn't working. I tried to put my gauges on it tonight, but I couldn't find the low pressure service port, but there's two on the high side (one on either side of a tubing connector).
I figure it should be obvious. I'm worried that the system was previously dorked with...with the two high-side ports and no low-side port. But everything looks factory.
The dryer is in the front left (passenger) of the engine compartment (when standing in front of and facing vehicle). I see the low-side line from evaporator come into it, then out of it down to the compressor in the center bottom, behind radiator. No port that I can find.
While looking for the a/c port, I also saw CVJ grease splattered all over on the driver side...it's always something. Just bought this last February (couldn't check the a/c too well) to replace the very nice 00 LeSabre 55k we bought in November for him. But the 00 didn't survive the collision with the truck that pulled in front of him...
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Have an E150 van with 302 engine. Where is the low pressure charging port on this beast.? The high press. is immediately visible but can not find low....
The van still has the old r-12 and I have 2 cans left...want to charge the system one more time before we get our new 6.0L VAN late this winter!
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Where is it. Probably under some shroud, but before I start taking things off, where it is from the perspective of standing in front of the grill.
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Recharging the A/C on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS.
I think I have a slow leak, so I bought a DIY and was going to recharge it and see if that fixes it. Where exactly is the low pressure port so I can charge it?
Is it complicated to do? Looking for a picture of the location?
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I have a ES350 and it is doing the issue of having warm air (or not cooled air) on the driver side, but has cold air on the passenger side. I looked around and saw it was a common problem. One of the solutions I read was to just refill the system with R134A. Not a problem for me, except I don't know where the low pressure port is located in my car. I was trying to find a online service repair manual on my car to locate where I need to connect to, to recharge the system.
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I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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Plugging a multiple USB port into the single USB port? Does it work? For example a plugging a USB drive and an IPod?
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I am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
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I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
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I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
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I have a 1994 saturn SW2 120k miles. On drives more than 20miles, car overheats. Already replaced radiator, thermostat, fan, radiator hoses, water pump, coolant reservoir and cap. Coolant is clear, not milky. Checked for exhaust gases in coolant with Block Check kit...all ok. Still overheats on longer drives. Coolant boils out of reservoir thru cap. Temp runs at about 1/2 between hot and cold on short trips.
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When I accelerate above 2000 RPM, a rattling noise (almost like when a kettle is sitting atop the stove and the water is boiling) comes from under the hood. The sound does not get louder as I accelerate above 2000 RPM (i.e. the sound is constant as long as the engine is above 2000 RPM). I took it to the mechanic, he said that the serpentine belt assembly needed tightening but that did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm concerned it might be my timing chain. As soon as the engine decelerates below 2000 RPM (say when I put the car in neutral) the noise disappears. It is a 1994 Saturn SL2, manual transmission.
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I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
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I drive a 94 Saturn SL1 as a part-time delivery driver for a pizza shop. Recently I bottomed out on someone's driveway. I could hear the bottom of my car scraping against the asphalt. It took several tries (in my 5-speed) to free myself from this trap. Since then I've been hearing a pretty loud "clicking" noise from the passenger side of the car every time I make a turn, where a small turn or a big turn. My mechanic replaced the left axle and the right boot, saying that both were defective. However I still hear the noise. What can I do??
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