Saturn - SL2 :: 2002 - No Spark And Fuel Pump Will Not Engage
Sep 7, 2011
I was on my way to work and my car would not start after I stopped at the gas station. One of the people at the station gave me a jump start and I continued to work. I asked one of my co workers to give me a jump to get home and when I started the car there were sparks and a bit of smoke from the battery. We hooked it up right and it will turn over but not start. The fuses are all good, the dash lights come on (service engine soon, check engine and security). We replaced the battery, and the coil assembly (I think that contains the ICM, but not sure). I called the mechanic I normally use and he said it was probably time to buy a replacement car. My friend (the one who hooked it up wrong) thinks it might be fixable, he has some mechanic experience and stated we are getting no spark and the fuel pump will not engage. We hooked up a car scanner to it and it was unable to communicate.
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I have a Saturn LW3 station wagon. For the past few months it has randomly failed to start (it cranks/turns over but it acts like it is never getting any fuel). I took it to a good mechanic but he could not replicate the problem. The mechanic did a scan and there were no error codes. I waited until it happened again and I had it towed to the mechanic. Finally it would not start for him either. He explained to me that he tested it and inexplicably no power was getting to the fuel pump. He also explained to me that it was not the relay (I forgot the reason he gave for this, but like I said, he is a good mechanic). He was baffled but needed to get to other cars that were ahead of me. So the next day he went to check it out and it started right up.
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I own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
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vue would crank, not start. 5 min later it started. done this 3 times in 1 month. changed original fuel filter. am leaning towards fuel. vs spark. no codes. I see pump assy's for $175. or a pump alone for $30. if I remove tank and pump assy, would there be any issue with changing pump alone? not paying shop so its my effort the last gm pump assy I did had a working pump but corrosion on leads to pump inside tank. I replaced assy because I had already bought assy.
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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So it has happened twice now that gas will NOT go into the tank on my 2001 Saturn L200. The pump immediately shuts off and gas spills out. From some research I believe there is a kinked hose but where and why did this happen 2 months ago and then now after several fill ups between. The first time it happened the problem fixed itself after sitting for a day, I guess I'll find out today if that is the case.
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I got my a fuel injector cleaning on my Saturn at the dealer. They sent me on my way with the car smelling like gas. After days of driving with the smell of gas, the service engine light on, and the car stalling I took back into the dealer. Now they are telling me that the fuel pump is broken and they want me to pay for it. This does not seem right. What happened. This seems to me something that the mechanic messed up...
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As I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
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Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
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My Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
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2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
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I have a 2002 ford explore 4.0 sport 4wd. I have a problem with my car, one day I tried starting the car and it didn't want to start. So i replaced the fuel filter and the car started. then after starting it a few times it didn't want to start anymore, so i took of the fuel tank (thinking bad gas, and there was stuff in the gas) so i take out the old gas out and put new gas, and bought a new fuel pump and filter, and when i put the gas tank back on the car, it still didnt want to start, so i take the fuel pump and find a random battery and connected it to the fuel pump and the pump spins so it works. I connected the pump to the car by itself not it the fuel tank (from underneath the car) and i was under the car to see if the pump turns on and someone tuned the car on, and the pump doesn't turn on (doesn't spin or anything). Long Story short, what i should do? Also I was looking for the fuel pump fuse and couldn't find it (thinking it might be the fuse) what is the fuse number or where its located.. i know where the fuel pump relay is, but just not the fuse. Why the pump wouldn't turned on??? The pic is how my fuse box looks like(there are many different version of the fuse box just wanted to show you how mine looks)...
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It has been a while. My 2000 2wd 5.4 Ex has developed a issue and I'm going to say it is the fuel pump. It was right before Christmas and I went out and the truck would not start. I panicked and remembered the relay. It pressed it, it clicked and off I went. Last week I was leaving work and it did the same thing but the relay was not tripped.
I got under it and rapped the tank a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fired up just fine. Went out this morning, super cold out and nothing. Rapped on the tank, nothing. Took the other car to work and came home, rapped on it again and nothing. The fuses are good but I'm sure it is the pump because I was able to hit the tank and start it.
My question is, any write up on removing the tank or a video? I like to see what i'm up against before I start to pull it. The bad thing for me is I have a little over half a tank of gas in it and no place to put it. This is going to be fun.
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2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
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My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
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My brothers 2002 F150 4.6l has a starting problem of when he shuts it off it will be hard to start sometimes. If he lets it sit for a while it will start right up. I did a search a looks like the fuel pump modules are subject in these trucks. The search also have them mounted on a cross member by the spare tire, this truck does not. My question is where is the fuel module located on the truck?
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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My 02 F150 4.6 has 84K miles on it, and started stumbling/hesitating during accellartion about three weeks ago. Before this problem started (about 2,000 miles ago), I installed a new fuel filter and air filter. Since I noticed the problem, I installed new plugs. The problem didn't go away, so today I checked the fuel pressure. At idle the pressure is 32psi with the vacuum line left on the fuel pressure regulator (30-45 is normal as per Chilton's), and 42 with the vacuum line off (40-50 is normal as per Chilton's). I also had someone else rev the engine so I could observe, and found that the fuel pressure went as low as 28 when the engine speed was quickly increased. The standing fuel line pressure is 30 (30 is normal as per Chilton's) Does this sound like a fuel pump problem, or is there something else that I'm missing.
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Fuel pump went out, took it to garage to have it fixed. Got it back...now I have no headlights, taillights, or dash lights. I have turn signals, break lights, and brights. I've checked fuses under the hood, and on both sides. Replaced them all twice just to be sure. I've changed the ignition switch and the multi-function switch. I'm at a loss!
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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