Saturn - SL2 :: 2000 - Elusive Brake System Noise
Feb 26, 2013
I have about 170k on my Saturn Sl2, but a rebuilt engine with about 80k on it. About 1/3 of the time when I brake, i hear a strange sound that sounds like metal on metal. I think it is coming from the front, possibly from the driver side, but it's hard to tell... I thought it could be a stuck caliper (they were in rough shape anyway) but the sound came back after I replaced them. I also have changed the pads and the rotors. It sounds like a lower pitch version of the sound a leaf spring makes when you drag it across concrete.
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I own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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Our 1993 Saturn SL1 wouldn't start this morning (this never happens). After we turned the car off, it made this "dugga, dugga, dugga" noise that seems to come from below the emergency brake. Even though the car has been off, the noise has been happening intermittently since this morning. We just replaced the battery a month ago.
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When I accelerate above 2000 RPM, a rattling noise (almost like when a kettle is sitting atop the stove and the water is boiling) comes from under the hood. The sound does not get louder as I accelerate above 2000 RPM (i.e. the sound is constant as long as the engine is above 2000 RPM). I took it to the mechanic, he said that the serpentine belt assembly needed tightening but that did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm concerned it might be my timing chain. As soon as the engine decelerates below 2000 RPM (say when I put the car in neutral) the noise disappears. It is a 1994 Saturn SL2, manual transmission.
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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I've finally found the elusive and annoying rattle under my '00 Ex V10. It only rattled while accelerating and at non regular times. I searched many threads on FTE looking for suggestions and many stated the flywheel cover(among other things) may be the culprit. Nope, all good. Turned out to be a heat shield on the exhaust crossover. It is welded on the four corners and one weld had let loose. It was almost imperceptible. It took going under on a cool morning with a small rubber mallet and giving it a tap to find it. Took the grinder out-no more rattle! If you have that elusive rattle give that shield a check.
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My gas gauge is not working on my 2000 F-150. We have already replaced the sending unit and still nothing.... The Fuel pump is working....
Second, When reading the computer what is Lean Bank 1?? Is it dirty fuel injection??
Thirdly, When I start the vehicle....WHY would I get a rattle in the brake fluid junction box????
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I've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
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I have problem with my brake system. When is comes to last 10 feet to a stop light always make this squeaky noise/high pitch noise. Brought it to the dealer for few times and they said this is a high-performance brake that's why there is these type of sound. I have a 2014 IS350.
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First my security system started going off for no reason.Second the odometer quit working (it will go forward a few miles and then back a few miles).Third the running lights and headlights started flashing on and off. Not at a paticular interval but it seems to be as the "security warning light" flashes on and off. It is currently at Performance Chevrolet in Elizabeth City, NC and they have not been able to determine the problem. It has approximately 90,000 miles on it.
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I have Lexus 460 LS L 2007. Few months back changed the battery and every thing was ok. 2 months after I had problem in the sound system ( radio and dvd ) which was on and off. One month back suddenly I had all the warning lights in the dashboard on with massage saying that that the brake system is malfunctioning and check the ABS system.
I took the car to LEXUS dealer and they reprogrammed the computer abd then every thing went back to normal and the problem fixed. Two days after I had these warning lights again with the same massege. I do not know what to do ??
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.
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My daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
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I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
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My wife drives a 2000 Saturn sw2 with 175K. I am out of town currently. Last night she called me and said that the car was cutting out on the interstate. The problem only occurred at almost 3000 rpm while the car was at speeds above 70 mph. Below that it was fine. Then today she called now she said that she could barely get it to 55mph. I am returning home tomorrow and am going to try to fix this in 5 hours before she needs it again. I am going to test drive it first to see if the above statements are correct. If so I am thinking it could be a failing fuel pump. I am not sure it autozone rents a tool that can measure the pressure on the fuel rail. I am thinking that this is a fuel rather than an ignition problem. Any quick diagnosis processes that could narrow down this problem quickly?
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I have a 2000 Saturn LW. It's generally been a good car. Approximately 6 months ago it would not start (would not even turn over). Had it towed, starter replaced and things seemed fine. Six weeks later, same thing. Replaced the starter again (supposedly battery was checked both times and fine). Works for another month and wouldn't start again. However, this time I couldn't get the key in. They replaced the electrical (ignition?) switch. Worked for another month or so and then wouldn't crank (as usual, would not turn over at all). Had it towed and the mechanic said the wires weren't connected well. Now 3 or 4 weeks later, almost happened again, but we did get it started on the third try and drove again to the mechanic. Works for him (of course). Says if it happens again, to move the gear handle as it might be a neutral safety switch (I don't think this is it as I'm pretty sure I tried that on a prior occasion).
It does seem to have electrical issues as the inside lights for certain periods of time will flicker. It also went through a spell where it would just cut off while going about 65 with the cruise and you hit a hill. The low power light would come on and a couple of others. It took getting a new computer? put in to get that to go away.
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I have a 2001 Saturn l200. About a week ago, my brake warning light came on. So I check the brake fluid and it was fine. The car still stops fine when I come to a stop.
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Over the past couple days my 5-speed 2000 Saturn SL1 has been doing something very strange. The other night around 11:30 pm I heard a big crash in my garage. I ran out to see what it was, and the car had moved forward about 4 feet, knocking down some boxes in the process. The car was in first gear, and had been off for at least 6 hours. The freaky thing is it moved forward against the grade of the garage. That’s right, the car was off, in first gear, with no one inside, and moved uphill on its own. A couple days later it did the same thing but with the emergency break on! It crashed into my parents garage door. The car managed to move up a steep driveway with the e-brake engaged. Again it moved about 4 feet.
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I have a Saturn SL2, 2000, 110k miles, automatic. When the engine is cold, reverse works. After the engine warms up, reverse stops working. It doesn't start moving from being in that gear, nor does it work when I push on the gas. Shifting from First to Second is a little rough at times.
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