Saturn - SL2 :: 1999 - Getting Code P0133 / SES Light Came On?
Apr 21, 2013
My 1999 Saturn SL2 recently showed the "Service Engine Soon" light. I brought it to Autozone for a code scan. They told me it is P0133, and could be due to a bad oxygen sensor. The only two pieces of info I have is that:
a) my car recently passed emission test mandated by my county, and the Service Engine Soon light comes on about a week AFTER the check
b) my car usually runs fine with no problem, only that my wife notes that it starts to "shake" when I drives over 65MPH or turns on cruise control. I have noticed a slight drop in fuel economy - from 22.5-24.5MPG to around 21MPG
Not sure if it is worth the money for the repair. If it were indeed the O2 sensor problem, what might happen if I don't replace it?
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I've been getting a P0133 trouble code on my 2001 Toyota Corolla and am stumped as to what is causing it. I've ruled out the obvious stuff: I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and can vouch for the lack of exhaust leaks, since I replaced the entire exhaust system myself a few months back and checked again for leaks after getting the code a few weeks back. I haven't replaced the spark plugs yet (they're definitely overdue) or cleaned the MAF sensor (I've heard that these could be the culprits) and will probably do both this weekend.
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I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
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My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
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Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
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I have a 1999 explorer with a 4.0 ohv auto with about 174,000 miles on it. the PO changed the coil pack, wires, plugs, MAF and cat on it trying to get rid of codes. I know the from searching that they are both precat 02 codes. So I am planning on looking for vacuum leaks with propane around intake and egr and checking on the fuel pressure and wiring and connections. Is there any thing else I should check out? for both sensors to throw this code? The truck runs ok just has a shutter when going up hills and stuff.
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I have a 2007 Saturn vue hybrid that has the check engine light on-the code says POAC. I can't find anything on the Internet what this code means. I'd like to fix it myself instead of bringing it to a dealer and getting charged big bucks! What this code means?
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I received code P1404 on my 1999 Saturn shortly after the idle went unstable. The car ran great for a couple of weeks, then the idle went unstable again. The idle would go up and down for a couple of miles, then stabilized, but I got code P1404 again. The EGR I installed is new. What else would trigger P1404?
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I checked my engine codes after the engine light came on. They were P0133 and another indicating an A/F upstream sensor problem. I had it replaced by an independent mechanic. A few days after I had the same code. Mechanic went over it and thought it was loose wiring. A few days after codes P0133 and P0128 were generated. Now the light will come on every few days, will stay off for a few. Do I have to get my computer upgraded? Honda 05 CRV ...
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The car is giving me P0016 and P0017 codes. I have read up on them, and it appears 17 could point to 16 being the culprit. Regular service, oil changes when the car says it is time. Vehicle has 90k miles. This is the 4 cyl engine. So, what am I most likely looking at? One or both sensors? Basically, is there a common problem associated with this vehicle and these codes that I can begin looking at?
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Truck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
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2005 4cyl. Vue with 54K... Steady CEL. Runs great. Absolutely no problem accelerating. Don?t hear or feel any misfiring. There is a slight rumbling sound when I first start to drive the car, but to me, the sound doesn't seem come from the engine, but rather underneath the car. It goes away when I continue to drive. Since winter began, I occasionally feel a very slight hesitation during idle?happened once or twice lately.
Again, I only feel justified in mentioning it simply because of the codes that were generated. None of my passengers have made a comment about the idle or the drive. My friend, however, made a remark that occasionally, there is a very very very slight hesitation at the downshift when braking. No crack in gas cap. Great fuel economy. No problems accelerating at all. Never hear or an actual misfire, which I take it, means a problem when accelerating, a jerking, or popping noise.
Took it to a dealer. Codes were 0300, 301, 302, 303, 304?302 generating most often. Dealer recommended new ignition module and plug replacement, but they said it wouldn?t be a guaranteed fix and that it may need EGR replacement (don?t hear knocking though) or be a burnt valve in the cylinder. No suction out tailpipe, no rotten egg smell (signs of burnt valve). What are the chances of burnt valve in a car with 54K anyway?
Also, my maintenance schedule claims that I don?t need new spark plugs until 100K. Is there anything else this could be such as a dirty injector system, fuel filter, fuel pump, or air filter? Again, overall, the car runs GREAT! Should I just wait and see if the misfire becomes more pronounced so when I take it to a mechanic, they won't be looking for a needle in a haystack?
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I have a 1999 passat gls 1.8t with an intermittent ABS light code 1203. i cant find a description for it anywhere. Many passats are infamous for abs modules going bad but this is an intermittent problem that the code is not always set so I am trying to pin point it down.
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My car, '99 ford escort,' engine light just came on when I started the car. I took it to autozone for one of those checks with the machine thingy. The code was PO171 bank 1 system 2 lead. The girl at autozone told me that I may need a oxygen sensor. What is a bank 1? What do I say when I go to the repair shop?
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My son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
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I recently purchased a 1999 vw passat gls 1.8t. Initially the guy I bought it off of told me that when he was rebuilding the turbo he stripped the main shaft bolt, so it needed a new turbo. So I bought a k-04 off of ebay and installed it. The battery was dead so I replaced the battery as well. When I first tried to start the car it would start for a second kind of chugging and then die. I went to my local auto parts store and rented a scan tool and it gave me 2 codes. The first code was P1545 and the other was P1818. As far as how many miles the engine has on it I don't know for sure as the engine has been replaced and apparently no one knows how many miles it actually has.
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My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
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My wife drives a 99 ford expedition, 5.4, auto, 4x4, Sunday I am driving it and it wont upshift from 1st to 2nd unless I let off the gas or let it run up to 4000rpm. I have cel and blinking OD off light. I pulled the code and got a p0755 shift solenoid b. That is really the only symptom, the other shifts seem fine.
1st question, which transmission do I have? I believe it to be the 4r100, the pan has a "notch" in it. Looks like this... Fel-Pro TOS18714 - Automatic Transmission Gasket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
2nd question, if it is the 4r100 is there just a solenoid "pack" and not individual solenoids to replace? I found these...PowerTorque- TE140 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
PowerTorque - TE141 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts
3rd question, what is the difference between the pwm and non pwm?
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My coolant light goes on, it started in winter in February and continues to yell @ me (checked the coolant and wires all is fine). I went to have it looked at, the mechanic says I need to get the Coolant level sensor replaced, but to do this he says it's part of the coolant reservoir, hence I need to replace both. Which will cost like $300 bucks, which I don't have?
Question: is this true? do you have to replace the reservoir to replace the sensor? I can't find an answer anywhere.
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1999 F250 Super Duty 6.8 V10 4x4 157k miles
On Friday afternoon the ABS light on my dash came up, ran the codes on my SCT Livewire and came up with a "P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A"
What should I be going after? Rear speed sensor? Front ABS sensors? Transmission speed sensor?
Speedometer is functioning 90% of the time, twice in the last 48 hours it wouldn't then shift hard and I would pull off to reset.
I have looked over the search results and wondered if there is a way to test the sensor with my multi-meter? Seems quite a bit of people had flashing over-drive light's at the same time, which I do not.
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