Saturn - SL2 :: 1994 - Rattling Noise When Accelerate Above 2000 RPM
Nov 14, 2012
When I accelerate above 2000 RPM, a rattling noise (almost like when a kettle is sitting atop the stove and the water is boiling) comes from under the hood. The sound does not get louder as I accelerate above 2000 RPM (i.e. the sound is constant as long as the engine is above 2000 RPM). I took it to the mechanic, he said that the serpentine belt assembly needed tightening but that did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm concerned it might be my timing chain. As soon as the engine decelerates below 2000 RPM (say when I put the car in neutral) the noise disappears. It is a 1994 Saturn SL2, manual transmission.
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My 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid has started to sound like a muscle car when I accelerate and maintain speeds over 20 mph. The RPMs are appropriate, there are no idiot lights on, and the battery appears to be behaving as usual. Also, the dash and radio lights dim and/or blink out intermittently.
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I drive a 94 Saturn SL1 as a part-time delivery driver for a pizza shop. Recently I bottomed out on someone's driveway. I could hear the bottom of my car scraping against the asphalt. It took several tries (in my 5-speed) to free myself from this trap. Since then I've been hearing a pretty loud "clicking" noise from the passenger side of the car every time I make a turn, where a small turn or a big turn. My mechanic replaced the left axle and the right boot, saying that both were defective. However I still hear the noise. What can I do??
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I just heard this noise today. It is right when i start the car in the morning. it is like a rattling noise, and it gets louder whenever i accelerate. But the thing is that after the car is warmed up, the noise is gone. is that normal? i checked the engine oil and it's close to full. and i cant see anythign wrong in my engine.
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When I accelerate I notice a rattling noise almost each time. Is it bad gas? I have been getting gas (90-95% of the time) at the same gas station for years, including the whole time with my 2011.
Also for the first time today i got an error message on my screen for the radio that says something to the effect that the USB has too much power consumption and will not run.
When I powered off and powered back on after lunch it started working again. I never had either problem with my 2011.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
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I have about 170k on my Saturn Sl2, but a rebuilt engine with about 80k on it. About 1/3 of the time when I brake, i hear a strange sound that sounds like metal on metal. I think it is coming from the front, possibly from the driver side, but it's hard to tell... I thought it could be a stuck caliper (they were in rough shape anyway) but the sound came back after I replaced them. I also have changed the pads and the rotors. It sounds like a lower pitch version of the sound a leaf spring makes when you drag it across concrete.
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
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I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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I have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
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I have a 2000 Volvo V70 XC wagon AWD. I just purchased this car in January and it needed a lot of love and care. Here's my car question: I have a rattling noise that started about a week ago. Just this morning (on my way to the mechanic ironically/luckily) the rattling became very loud and apparent. The noise sounds something like a piece of metal rattling around in an empty coffee can. The noise seemed to go away when I was accelerating, get louder when coasting, and then slowed down in frequency (not volume) as the speed of my car slowed down.
My mechanic also isn't sure what's wrong. He has had himself and 2 other mechanics look at, in addition to hooking it up to machines and making phone calls to Volvo. He says the noise is unmistakably coming from my drive-shaft and that it sounds like it is traveling from one end of the drive shaft to the other. He also said it's odd because the place that the noise is coming from is just a shaft and shouldn't be making any noise?
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We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I have a 1994 saturn SW2 120k miles. On drives more than 20miles, car overheats. Already replaced radiator, thermostat, fan, radiator hoses, water pump, coolant reservoir and cap. Coolant is clear, not milky. Checked for exhaust gases in coolant with Block Check kit...all ok. Still overheats on longer drives. Coolant boils out of reservoir thru cap. Temp runs at about 1/2 between hot and cold on short trips.
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For the past week I've been hearing a rattling / thumping noise when I'd go over a bump or hit a pothole. I opened the trunk and it wasn't anything knocking around in there.
Yesterday when I was driving I hit a bump and it sounded even louder, like something rubbing against something. I pulled into a parking lot and looked under the car thinking maybe the muffler was dragging or something, but I didn't see anything. I had my daughter get out of the car and look while I backed up and then forward again. She didn't see anything and the noise had stopped.
I figured I'd try to drive home but as soon as I hit another bump the rubbing noise was back so I pulled over & called for a tow. When the guy looked at it he said it looked like my shock or strut (can't remember which he said). He showed me a hole under the car where the part is supposed to be in, then showed me the part which was currently out of the hole and slanted forward next to my tire. When he pushed on my tire I heard the same noise as when I was driving.
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I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
[URL] ....
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I have a 07 Hyundai sonata that has a rattling noise only during acceleration and only at just under 2000 rpm's. I went to a mechanic who checked the heat shields and exhaust only to tell me it was in the transaxel and sent me to a transmission shop. the transmission shop told me they think its the hydraulic lifters, and sent me elsewhere.
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Recently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
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There is a rattling sound that seems likie it MIGHT coming from my AC compressor or somewhere in that area when the AC is on and the car is in Drive (while stopped) or in Park but it goes away if you put the car in neutral or turn the AC off? What is the problem?
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Currently I own a 2000 Lexus RX 300. I just had an oil change but there is a noise by the tires only when I accelerate. When I put my foot on the brakes it stops. I am at a loss. Where would the best place to ask and get the work done.
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