Saturn - SL1 :: AC Blows Hard But Warm / Coolant Pressure Is Good
Sep 5, 2011
My 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
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Inverter coolant runs low and also regular coolant blows up. Do they use one line together? Everyday I have to fill the inverter.
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So I was on my way to work on a semi-chilly morning here in Colorado. Every day as usual, a little upset in the morning, a little white smoke and after a good warm up i'm on my way. About 10 minutes up the road while accelerating on the freeway, I hit I guess the perfect RPM range (2000-2500) when all of a sudden my CEL came on. Right as the CEL showed up, the engine introduce to me a new skip and lost a bit of power. About 5 more minutes up the road, the CEL went off and the skip went away, unless in idle. I made it to work a few minutes later and the skip in idle was apparent for sure. I turned her off and just couldn't get her to turn back on. The injectors are just not firing, no smoke at all, they don't even sound like they're trying to fire almost like no signal to the whole engine.
I replaced the CPS, the IPR and unplugged the ICP to test if she'd go. I opened the fuel bowl and watched it fill up. I checked the HPOP level, it was almost full, maybe a quarter (between half) inch from the top. No codes.
She ran great until this, outside of needing glow plugs. When I was trying to get her started it was 60ish outside so I don't think glow plugs is the issue. It sounds like the Injectors are not firing at all, whatsoever.
I will note that I had a few fuses blow out of no where that I replaced, a trail light, OBD fuse and one other in the under-dash box. I had her dyno'd a few weeks back and the tech said she made great power but sounded like she had a little issue recovering from the high RPMs but I figured my injectors are tired.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
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Horn recently stopped working. I checked the fuse, noticed it was blown. I replaced with a new fuse. Pressed the horn and it had a very short sound and then blew the fuse. What could be causing this?
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My 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
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I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
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Found some oil and maybe coolant mix come out of one of my exhaust pipes. Trucks smoking pretty bad what is it?
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I just got my TMPS light on this morning, check pressure all 4 tires are good, 35 PSI each, did not check spare tire, does spare tire had TMPS sensor? what do you think? is one of my sensor is bad?
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My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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It seems the local dealership has finally figured out why the rear ac blows warm while the front blows cold. It only took 5 trips.
The part # comes out to F75Z19A522AA or F75Z-19A522-AA. Its listed on Tousley and other online parts outlet but so far all that I have called said it is no obsolete and they are no longer available from Ford.
Rear inlet door actuator - obsolete part? Where I can find this part (I'll even consider used)?
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Tested/checked the blend door, actuator, Low pressure cycling switch, compressor clutch and they all work. The accumulator does not condense, or at least that I've noticed. The gauge on a can of R134a reads 55 at 85 degrees outside. Anything else I can check to diagnose a problem?
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I've noticed that my X in the winter does not seem to warm up as it should. I watch the temperature gauge and notice that it barely gets to the first mark in the operating zone of the gauge. The heater blows warm air but not hot. I think its the thermostat that needs replaced because in other vehicles I would see the temp gauge rise and then drop when the thermostat opened. I've flushed the radiator and changed the fluid and not difference. I did find the heater valve on the right side was unhooked from the vacuum line and plugged it back in but no change from that being connected. Anything else I should check?
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i have a 1996 ford tausue lx about 150000 miles...when i starts the car up and i let it warm up some before i drive it..when i put it in drive the car jerks hard i did check transmission fluid and it was good.what could cause this..i did open hood up and i did see motor move back some in i put it in drive..
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I drive a 2009 Santa Fe with 51000 miles on it. Recently the AC vents on the drivers side blow air that is considerably warmer than the air on the passenger side.
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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I have a 2007 Dodge Charger. The heat blows out warm air. I have replaced the water pump and thermostat. When accelerating the vehicle, the heat turns to hot. Is this normal, perhaps a speical feature? I have 66,000 miles.
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
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