I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 that died while driving. The battery was tested ok! When you turn the key all the lights come on. Turn it to start and all the lights go out except the SES and security lights. I have tried a method of resetting the security system by turning the key on then briefly to start. Letting it set and repete about 3 times or so. But it does nothing for the present issue.
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn with about 140,000 miles on it. This morning after driving a short distance (maybe 2blocks) to the local gym my car wouldn't start when I came out about an hour later. When I put the key in and give it the first turn to the "run" (think that is what it's labeled) position the dash lights headlights, ac, radio, etc all turn on fine, however when I try to turn it to "start" nothing happens. No noise, no clicking, nothing.
This is the second time this has happened to me, first time was roughly a month ago pretty much the exact same situation drove a short distance this time the car was only off for maybe 10-15 minutes and wouldn't start. However, that time when I went back to my car about 30 minutes later it started just fine, that was not the case this time.
After that first time I brought my car into the local shop to see what the problem was, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. Can't recall everything he said he checked (battery, starter, alternator if I recall) and said everything was good and the conclusion he came to is that I must have left a light on or something. Which I didn't, as it was in the middle of the day and my dome light is always set to off anyways and the headlights weren't on and the doors were all properly closed and what not.
Also, I had the battery and spark plugs replaced about a year ago and aside from that everything in my car seems to be working fine...
I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
While driving my 2000 Subaru Outback (197,000 miles) the speedometer, tachometer stopped working but the fuel and temp gauges were working fine. The transmission felt like it was slipping. When I used the brakes they were grabby, jerky and made a loud clunk. The engine began sputtering and I was barely able to keep it going as I tried to get home. At stop lights I had to put the car in neutral and rev the engine. We also noticed that while the engine was running the power windows were very slow to open and close and the turn signals and emergency flashers did not work at all. Now the car is in the driveway dead as a doornail and the key stuck in the ignition.
The battery is one year old and the alternator is the original. The fuel tank is 3/4 full. I bought the car new in 2000. What the problem could be?
I have a 2004 Accent. When driving on the interstate yesterday, I turned the turn signal on and my car died for a moment. After I parked it, it would not start. It did not turn over. Took the battery out to get checked. It was good. Put back in and then the car started. Drove home. The radio and clock would flicker intermittently but made it home. Today it will not start at all. Nothing comes on.
View 14 RepliesMy car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 V10 X and am having some starting issues.
Drove her to the store and she was fine. Went to drive home and she started to start, but instantly died. Then after that she wouldn't start at all...does not turn over. Had her towed home (which was fun...front wheels of flatbed came off the ground a little while loading her lol) and I have replaced the starter and the battery...still the same thing.
Thinking maybe the starter solenoid on the fender. Looks like a previous owner has installed something and ran power lines to the starter solenoid. Not quite sure what it is.
Here are some pictures:
Solenoid:
Extra box:
About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
While driving my truck to work this morning, it completely died at 65mph. The radio and all electronics are still working. Coasted to a safe place to try and restart, but it won't turn over. The glow plug light stays on. Could this be an alternator problem or something more serious? I'm waiting for a tow truck. I'll see if there are any codes when I get it home.
View 14 RepliesSo I heard some low-pitch but still the squeaky-type noise under the wheel when I turn it while driving/parking. In addition, once in a while, while driving the car, it will automatically honk on the street. I sense the car may need some check-up for its electric system. But what shall I do at this moment?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
I have a 2000 Grand AM cylin. Recently I was driving when my car started to shake violently. I drove it to the side of the road to a parking lot then it died. I started it up again and is ran but shacking a lot again. Once I got home, 3 blocks away the car died again. I tried to start it again but it would only turn but not start the engine. I have checked the gas pump, motor mounts, oil and anti freez for oil. I did check the timing chain but I don't know much on how it should be.
View 2 RepliesThis is a 2000 Passat GLS 1.8 turbo that is in great shape and loaded. It recently had all new tires, brakes, belts, and tune up 98,000 miles. Now the not so good, after died while driving it was taken to the garage and the mechanic told us it needed a new camshaft and timing chain. I didn't have the money to start dumping into the car so I am stuck in limbo.
View 9 RepliesMy daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
View 3 RepliesMy mom has a 2002 Saturn l300 v6. She's never had any problems with it except having to get a new computer about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago she got rear ended and ever since then it has had trouble starting. The few times it did start, it wouldn't idle and died. She replaced the fuel injector, but it kept doing it.
It's been at the mechanics ever since then, and everything I've looked up says it might be the fuel pump itself, but that raises the question of wouldn't our mechanic have found it by now? I've been told that it's either wiring or the pump, but when I bring it up I'm shouted down because nobody thinks that it could be those things.
I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
View 1 Replies99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
View 2 RepliesAfter driving through a downpour, my headlights wouldn't turn off. I pulled the fuse, and when I put it in again, the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on- checked the bulb, it's ok, amateur mechanic from the hood tried to ground a wire, nothing. I read that the schematics for the headlight wiring are odd in this car. Looking for a solution my mechanic in the hood could try before going elsewhere. Saturn 2002 SL....
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn L300 V-6 3.0L. The car always starts okay when it's cold, like overnight cold. After I've run it for at least 20 minutes to half an hour, then turn it off and leave it for about the same amount of time (i.e., 20 minutes to half an hour), it will sometimes, but not always, fail to turn over when I try to restart it. The battery is fine, there's plenty of juice, the starter cranks aggressively, but the engine won't fire up. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low, about 20 lbs, when it should have been 50-70 lbs, so he replaced the fuel pump, but the problem is still there.
He also blew air through the fuel lines to test for obstructions, but there were none. Now he thinks it could be the on-board computer or a defective anti-theft device which is intermittently sending the wrong signal to the fuel pump. On one occasion when the car wouldn't turn over, he said there was 0 lb fuel pressure. Since the car starts maybe 90% of the time with no problem, it's difficult for my mechanic to work on it. He doesn't have time to drive it around town to warm it up, and I'm getting tired of going to his shop and taking the car out for a spin once or twice a day in the hope that, when I bring it back to him and we let it cool down, it won't start. What else to check?