Saturn - Outlook :: 2008 - Shudders At 35 Mph When Accelerating
Dec 12, 2012
I have a 2008 Saturn Outlook, 88k miles that shudders at 35mph when accelerating. Does not matter if the car is hot or cold. This problem (there are others) started after I had my tires aligned. It does not pull to the left or right it just shakes and shudders at 35 mph and goes away. I thought maybe it was the spark plugs, but darn if this stupid car company did not build this so you (the regular folkd) can change their spark plugs. Have to remove the exhaust manifold etc. or pay a mechanic to replace them. After this started I had to have my water pump replaced, while it was in the shop I had them run a diagnostic and nothing shows up except the water pump issue and that my timing cover needs to be resealed.
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I have owned my Saturn Outlook XR (2008) for a short 2 months. My a/c stopped working about 3 weeks ago. Replaced the blower motor and air would then blow again but the a/c still does not work. Had a mechanic look at the vehicle for me and turns out that I have that haunting saturn outlook hose rubbing together causing a leak problem that so many of you have also experienced. My low pressure line is leaking. My mechanic explained what an extensive project this is, not due to the actual parts, but, the labor to reach this hose then replace it. I am not thrilled about this problem. I do not want to be paying more money out of my pocket to fix a vehicle that I haven't owned long enough to have these kinds of expenses. This clearly is an issue in more than just my vehicle and GM is not taking responsibility for this poor placement/planning of the hoses and recalling this part.
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Having problems with Saturn Outlook, sunroof leaking?
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How do you remove low beam bulb, on passenger side.
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Friday, 4/4/14: I have read many of the posts about this issue on this site. Didn't know this was such a widespread problem until I started doing my internet research today. Obviously there are many of us and this has been going on for a few years with this vehicle. I have had soaked floor boards twice and dealing with my third incident today(4 inches of rain last night). Have an appt with my GMC dealership on Monday. How I start this process with GMC to quickly get their attention. Obviously, I need to contact GMC first so that I can get their standard, worthless answer. But I've read I need to hire a "lemon law attorney", post my dissatisfaction on social media, contact the news media, etc. I am 62 yrs old, on disability, can't afford this inconvenience for something GMC should be RECALLING and fixing. Plus I have a small garage and this monster vehicle will not fit in it (didn't know that until after I bought it).
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Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Outlook. The rear lift gate does not work anymore, as a matter of fact it tries to slam itself shut whenever it is lifted. I am not extremely mechanically inclined but I can do minor repairs so I also need to know if I can fix this problem or need to take it to a mechanic.
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Since my first service, I have had a clicking type noise in my front end of the car when I am driving slowly (parking, pulling into my driveway). The dealer first said that it could be the brakes setting up after the car sat for a while. They "could not duplicate" the sound when the car was dropped off, but I still hear when I drive.
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I had been hearing the low groaning of the wheel bearings for several weeks and was on my way to the garage to have the car repaired when my 2000 Saturn SL1 recently had an uncontained wheel bearing failure, in which there was the screaming the gnashing of metal, as well as the left wheel wobbling. The car was towed to the garage, and they replaced both wheel bearings (the one that exploded, and the other one which was on its way out as well). After wards I have noticed three items:
#1 - The car was initially quiet, but about 2 weeks later I've started hearing the low drone "wheel bearing going" sound. The only difference is, it does not change when I turn the wheel to the left or right. The garage said they couldn't tell if it was the wheel bearings going bad, but it could be the transmission.
#2 - Since the replacement my breaks feel spongier than normal. The garage said the master break cylinder may have been damaged when the wheel bearing blew apart, but that the car was safe to drive, unless it got worse. (My breaks used to be very firm, now there is more play in them).
#3 - Finally, since the repair when driving at highway speeds the car pulls to the right, and sometimes shudders, and when down shifting (not breaking) the car pulls to the left... I have not yet had the garage look at this. My question is - what do others make of these symptoms? And, is the garage feeding me a line of BS? Or are they spot on?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Echo, manual 5 speed, with 160K miles. Everything works fine except for when you are accelerating (can happen in any gear) and mainly uphill. I assume the primary condition is when the car is being pushed or under more load than just cruising, anyway, it will will make a low grumbling noise and simultaneously shudders as if it is going to stall. This happens in a jerky fashion and doesn't last very long but consistently under aforementioned conditions. We have 3 Echo's by the way, all manual shift (Echo friendly)...
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 103,000 miles. It shudders when I accelerate; sometimes one, two or three shakes. This usually occurs around 35-40 mph while I am going uphill (never while going downhill). I always use overdrive, but I tried it in drive and also felt it then.
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Our 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
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I have a 2008 Saturn Astra and there is a high pitched squeeling sound when i accelerate from a stop. It has been happening since last year but seems to have gotten worse. It only happens in the summer time. It squeels only when accelerating at low speeds. if I accelerate quickly the sound goes away. but will come back if i come to a stop and accelerate normally again. It doesnt start from 0 RPMs but only at low rpm. It only happens when I first turn on the car and accelerate. If I have been driving for a few minutes and then accelerate from a stop it doesn't make any unusual sound. It happens in reverse as well as drive.
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When I was driving to school this morning my check engine light went on and I noticed that my car is running very rough (suddenly). I also noticed that the check engine light would blink when accelerating at a stop light then go solid again when driving. I drive long distances between school and work and I think I won't be making it to work later due to this issue. This is a Saturn Ion II 2005 and gets regular maintenance on time.
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I have a 2000 Saturn sl2 (automatic 85,000 miles) and recently, I can feel the momentum of the car stop for a split second. The hesitation isn't occurring when the transmission is shifting between gears but, when I'm just at a normal speed or accelerating. The fluid is new and at the right level and there's no change in the RPMs (it doesn't rev up or drop like I would expect) and no weird noises.
This is my fourth Saturn SL and I love em but, I have a feeling that this car has had a more interesting life that the carfax printout indicated. Is carfax reliable?
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My 2008 XLS has 172,000kms on it and has been having a vibration problem. Specifically, the gas pedal vibrates and the whole car shudders when it is between 55-80 km/h and in 6th gear. The shudder/vibration occurs when the car has to drop a gear to accelerate. After it downshifts, the vibration is gone. It has been happening for the past few months. The vibration did go away for a while after I changed the brakes. So, not sure what could be going on there!
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I just bought this truck a few weeks ago and rarely hit the freeway. But 2x now when getting on the freeway it will shudder/lose power at about 60MPH. It quickly recovers and then seems perfectly fine. Both times it has happened while going to lunch and when the vehicle is not warmed up. It has not happened on the return trip. I did some searching but nothing seems to be very intermittent like my problem is. Hard acceleration is fine and I have no issues there. Its an 05 Supercrew FX4 with 39K on on it and was babied.
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07 f150 4x4 shudders when starting from a stop going around corners. I was thinking of changing the diff. fluid. Is this a good start?
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2004 F150 XLT 4X4, 5.4, 142,000 miles... Plugs had been changed at around 75,000 miles... Shell gas used 99% of the time.
Shudders and jerks going up inclines (big or small). Bad gas is being reported at all the local stations...Started using Sea foam and Lucas fuel line cleaner/ethanol treatment. After three tanks of that, I ran tank down till low fuel came on, kept driving, and no more shudders/jerks and ran great while low fuel light was on.
OK...decided to fill tank with Non ethanol gas this time (not Shell gas), added Sea foam and Lucas fuel line cleaner, and shakes, shudders and jerks all the time now.
Before no check engine lights came on but for once when I romped on the pedal once to blow it out, but it went off once I let off. Today going to work, entering traffic, engine light came on, blinked and stayed on. Truck now shudders and jerks all the time when I give it gas, and can only drive like Paw Paw to keep if from doing that.
Local shop ran test and #7 cylinder is not firing and two lean fuel notices. It will be Tuesday before they can check and if needed, replace coil on #7 cylinder.
I'm thinking of installing a new Fuel Pump Control Modulator as per a thread I read here, but only after they check/replace the coil. AND ALSO...turning the OD off did stop the shutters/jerks.
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I just replaced the head on a 1997 Saturn SL2 due to it running rough and low compression on one of the cylinders. It idles very smooth now and has at least 160 PSI on all 4 pistons. The problem is that it surges as you are accelerating slowly, gets poor gas mileage and it seems that the oil level is raising on the dip stick. I'm guessing that gas is some how getting into the oil.
I checked the spark plugs for carbon build-up which would indicate a rich gas mixture but they're clean (lite tan color). I also replace some of the vacuum lines where I found cracks, but I may have missed a few. Overall the car seems to run pretty good. The problem is that this is my daughter's car who lives 10 hours drive away and I don't want to stick her with any problems. I don't want to take it to a dealership where they'll charge me a lot of money but my mechanic that I normally deal with doesn't know what to do with it since there aren't any fault codes on the computer.
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