I have a 2006 Saturn Ion 3. The air conditioner had been less cold for about a week and yesterday it stopped working completely. I tried filling the Freon, but it was not low. What are some other causes?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Vue with an annoying "service engine soon" light problem. When I first took the car in to have it scanned, codes 171, 172 came up, which were "Fuel too lean Bank 1/Bank 2". It also has a problem with a high idle condition where the idle will creep up to 2000 rpm when parked, and a vacuum leak. My mechanic fixed the vacuum leak and replaced the gaskets on the intake manifold plenum, reset the light, gave it back to me and within twenty miles the light came on again. It only has 20,000 miles on it....
View 2 RepliesAs summer hit WI, I noticed that the a/c did not really work. At most it takes the humidity out of the cabin air and it does blow somewhat cooler air when the car is driving vs. idling. Our mechanic added freon and a dye to try and trace the problem. The added freon worked for about 2 weeks (but still not back to working like regular) and then it petered out.
View 2 RepliesI bought this 2004 Prius in 2010 with 104K miles. Now at 117K. When outside temp goes to 86 F or above, the a/c blows warm air. If I stop A/C for a while, and restart it, it will blow some "cold" air for 10 seconds, then back to "warm" again. at below 82F it seems work normally, although I never felt "cold" enough like my other car Lexus LS 400 1998.
My mechanics found (using his diagnostic device) that the thermometer temp measure indicate as 28F when outside was at 90F. He can not figure it out. Is it possible that temp sensor (thermometer) gone bad? Or it is just a loose connection which might cause the resistance value change? He added enough refrigerate fluid for the car.
I noticed in glove box there are evidence of glue used. I suspect that the car had some body damage on right side and being fixed.
Anyway, the a/c problem so far happens consistently at around this temp. I have no any other problem on this beautiful car.
I have an 08 Camry that appears to be having the problems associated with the ABS module (intermittent A/C, speedometer not working, etc.).
I've picked up a module/pump from a junkyard. Excuse my ignorance, but the module itself (black portion), does not have any fluid circulating through it? If I'm just swapping that, there is no need to bleed the ABS or perform any programming?
i just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
I own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
View 1 RepliesI've been having an intermittent problem with a no start condition when hot. It has lately gotten worse to the point that I was dead in the water for about 25 minutes while i had the hood open to allow things to cool off. I closed everything back up hit the key and it jumped to life just like it was new. I've read through the tech folder as well as several other threads regarding no starts but haven't run across anything that is pointing me in any one direction. It cranks over very strong on new interstate batts that are only 6 months old and the SGII shows sync on the FICM and I'm getting a good RPM signal showing about 160-170 cranking RPM.
Good logic power and showing 47.5 to the injectors. I'm running an atlas 40 from Ed in the FICM. I've wiggled wires and done a cursory look but I would think that if there was any chaffing that cooling off wouldn't affect it and it would be dead until fixed. Once it is running I have no problems, never let me down or quit on me while under way. Again, it is intermittent where I'll have 3 weeks or a month of no problem at all and then run into long crank times for another couple of weeks.
I've made no mods to any of the HP oil system and have no leaks that I can see, no consumption between oil changes. I'm in the middle of building a house right now and need the truck to be reliable. I'm pretty good with a wrench if I know what the problem is but I don't know where to start on this. It's an '06 model but an '05 build date on the motor.
2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
View 2 RepliesHow I can tell if I have an AC leak or a compressor issue? I recently added freon and stop leak and the AC was blowing nice and cold for a week or so but now it takes a while to get cool but not cold like it was. How can you tell when you have a compressor problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SC2. I went out to start my car and all the lights and chimes worked but car would not start.. wouldn't even act like it wanted to. I did hear a little humming maybe with a lil click but not like "click click click" sound . O and the radio wouldn't work either, and when i turned it to on the security light and check engine lights were on, not blinking. I tried resetting the alarm (saw on a site) by unlocking the door, turning it off and on and off and leaving it unlocked for 30 min that didn't do anything.
When I came back the lights were getting dimmer and now this morning I have no notta. Now my battery is dead and I cant check anything, does this sound like the security, how do i quick fix it or is this the ignition or starter???? My battery is brand new. Oh and I did just start using my alarm clicker again after about a year because I thought i lost it but just found it, that's why I am really thinking it has to do with the alarm but I cant even check the ignition or the starter with a dead battery. I tried to jump start it and notta.
I have a 2002 Saturn Vue with a couple of miles on it (228,436 to be exact). I bought the car used in 2009 with 150K miles. Since I bought the vehicle, the electric door locks have stopped working, both with the key fop and with the door lock switches. This all started with the key fob working intermittently, and eventually degraded to the door lock switches not working. When I press the door lock switches on any of the doors you can hear the relay try to engage, however the doors do not lock or unlock. This is particularly interesting since now when I turn the ignition off, instead of unlocking the door, the system locks three of the doors and the hatch (it does nothing with the driver side door). I am not sure where to start looking for the root cause of this problem.
View 6 Replies11 months and 3 weeks ago a mechanic I trust replaced my a/c. Two weeks later I rear-ended another car.
There was minor cosmetic damage but it ran as before. A week after that began the record setting Texas summer heat wave and my car got so hot the mirror gauge registered 125 in a fast food line. This is the only time it got that hot. Once we got moving everything seemed fine.
A couple of days later the a/c ran for about 10 minutes then stopped. Slowly the time the unit cooled decreased until it stopped working. I took the car back to the mechanic. He stated the pressure measured up to 100 psi and the temperature was above the rating for the a/c system.
He fixed a short in the radiator/engine fan, the temperature problem never returned and the pressures were high but my a/c worked.
At first the a/c seemed to work fine but then it began to work only sometimes. When it did work it would sometimes work in "hybrid" mode which you Saturn owners recognize as cooling at the reduced level that saves gas in stop and go traffic -- or not at all as we say in TX.
I took it back. The mechanic now explained the I'd voided the warranty because the short in the radiator fan allowed the car and a/c system to get too hot. The high heat had burned some sort of internal valve in the compressor.
The valve is unreliable. The performance of the a/c is mainly temperature dependent. The hotter the day the less likely the a/c will produce enough of a pressure difference to open this valve. Warm days the system will probably cool. Hot days it will probably not.
Being a CarTalk listener and an former nerd I thought of and tried a way to magnify the pressure difference using rpm. It works but the hotter the day the higher and longer I have to rev the engine. Now I'm burning oil for the fist time ever. Did I cripple my air conditioner or does my trusted mechanic learn a little to little when he learned to repair my hybrid a/c system?
I have a 2007 Saturn Relay with heated seats. One of the seat heaters has quit working and now the other one gets super hot after it is turned on for a while. What is causing the seat to get super hot? I don't want to burn up anything.
View 4 RepliesAbout a year ago the passenger side window stopped working. It was not a huge problem and my husband kept telling me he would look at it. Well.......... as of last week none of the windows will work and the drivers side automatic lock button stopped working. I can lock and unlock it with the remote and the passenger lock button works. I just don't know. My husband looked at the wiring in the door joint and took the panel off and everything seemes secure. Also, the cd player is running an error message and I have had problems with the switch. This car is driving me crazy!!!!!!
View 1 RepliesMy drivers front signal does not work. its not the bulb. took headlight assembly out and then the passanger side did not work and the drivers side did. check passenger side. now it switched again. now drivers side is out and passenger side works. both parking lights work fine. no clue what's going on
View 2 RepliesRecently,my 2003 Saturn Ion's electronic trunk opening buttons have stopped working ! A couple of times,I have found wiring casings underneath where we usually park the car at night and I even found what appeared to be a chewed up wire within the same spot. I've kind of checked for bad fuses. But, there is no listing for a fuse for the electronic trunk switches. Neither the button on the remote works nor the button inside the vehicle.
View 6 RepliesI have an '07 Saturn Relay. The drivers side heated seat has quit working, the passenger side works fine. When I turn the warmer switch on, the switch lights up but the seat never gets warm on the high or low mode of the switch. After a while the light on the switch goes off, it used to stay on all the time. What could be wrong and how can I check it?
View 3 Replies