Saturn - Ion :: 2003 - Locked Out - No Power?
Mar 15, 2015
I'm using a 2003 Saturn Ion. After using a regular key to enter the car (which triggered the alarm) and then turning on the car, the alarm stopped and could run. Then when the car was stopped, and the key was removed (though on ACC instead of Off, it didn't turn back all the way).
After coming back later, there was no power to the car, and only the Security light on the dashboard appeared, staying on steadily. Pressing the brakes would make it disappear temporarily. The time wasn't appearing, and pressing the unlock button (on the door or the key) wouldn't respond.
After looking into this some, I tried putting the key in the ignition, and holding it there for 10 minutes. Though I think it may have slipped a bit a few times in the first 10 minutes, I held it there for more than 20 minutes. The lock and car logo didn't turn off or dim down.
What am I supposed to do? There's got to be a much easier way then literally holding the key all the way back for half an hour. And just to note, the ignition still doesn't turn back all the way to Off, it can only go to ACC; from there it can be removed. In the past, this was fixed by tapping the button on the clutch. But this doesn't work now that the car is in this locked down mode.
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I'm using a 2003 Saturn Ion. After using a regular key to enter the car (which triggered the alarm) and then turning on the car, the alarm stopped and could run. Then when the car was stopped, and the key was removed (though on ACC instead of Off, it didn't turn back all the way).
After coming back later, there was no power to the car, and only the Security light on the dashboard appeared, staying on steadily. Pressing the brakes would make it disappear temporarily. The time wasn't appearing, and pressing the unlock button (on the door or the key) wouldn't respond.
After looking into this some, I tried putting the key in the ignition, and holding it there for 10 minutes. Though I think it may have slipped a bit a few times in the first 10 minutes, I held it there for more than 20 minutes. The lock and car logo didn't turn off or dim down.
What am I supposed to do? There's got to be a much easier way then literally holding the key all the way back for half an hour. And just to note, the ignition still doesn't turn back all the way to Off, it can only go to ACC; from there it can be removed. In the past, this was fixed by tapping the button on the clutch. But this doesn't work now that the car is in this locked down mode.
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on?
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I have a 2003 Saturn L200. It has about 140k miles. I've taken care of it and it runs well. I had a slow leak near the front that I thought was oil and took it to my mechanic. Turns out to be power steering fluid. He said the leak is form the rack and pinion unit and it can't be fixed, it would need to be replaced.
Since the leak is very slow he suggested I just keep an eye on it, occasionally top off the power steering fluid and not bother to fix it unless it gets worse. Does that seem reasonable to you? Am I making things worse by waiting or causing myself any potential safety problems?
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
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My father took the car to the grocery store and lost the keys. When we got the car from the dealer we only got one set of keys and proceeded to order a second set. Forgot to pick the other set and when I did the key did not worked. They (the dealer) swapped the 2 last digits from the VIN number so they had to reorder the keys. In the meantime how do I open the car. It is a 2003 Passat V6.
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I have a 2003 sliverado with a RDS radio. I had a bought another one from a person on ebay. I put it in and everything worked. the next day I went out to drive it and found the radio was lock up. Because of the anti theft on it. They did this to keep crooks from using the radio if they steal it. I read you have to have vin to unlock it without the scan tool. So I wanted to know how to use the old vin number to unlock it?
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My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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I know it will wear out the tires but will it hurt the front end? Also the drive shafts to the front end is not turning.
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My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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03 saturn vue, 3.0 V6, fwd. am getting abs light. turns out you can get vue with and without abs. you look up info on front hub assy and they show hubs with and without the abs sensor. the vue is special. you can remove the VSS sensor from hub. why they call it ABS sensor or VSS is confusing. maybe on vues without abs it is called vss? point is, dont ALL vues have the VSS at each wheel? i looked at 2 different 02-03 vues in junkyard. 1 was the evil CVT trans and the other was a manual trans vue. too bad neither was the V6 model like mine. neither had any wire harness at front hub. so how do they read vehicle speed? i know the CVT trans is evil, a real piece of junk. maybe it reads vehicle speed internally?
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I'm having a problem with my passenger door always staying locked. Even when I press the unlock button it won't unlock, but it will unlock if i use the key and keep it turned but if i turn the key back after I unlock it it locks automatically. The other way I can open the door is from the inside door handle only. How can I fix this so people can enter in the passenger side normally???
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My 2003 Saturn Vue V-6 AWD headlights dim while driving. They don't entirely go out, but at the very least it is distracting. It happens on both hi and low beam. The battery indicator light also pops on briefly, and generally unpredictably. The only indicator of the battery light turning on is it seems to happen more often when I come to a stop, when the fan turns on. And possibly more often while using the AC. The headlights always dim, nothing seems to make this happen more or less.
This vehicle has a new alternator. Actually, it is on its second new alternator. The first was installed in November 2014. It was overcharging and I was getting all kinds of funny lights on, before replacing it February 2015. I've had the current problems since this time. My mechanic has tested the alternator, starter, battery, and connections. Has also checked all the grounds. Apparently, my vehicle is 100%?
While the dimming lights don't really bother me, I have a teenager who wants to inherit this vehicle. I would like to resolve this before passing it on.
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97 F150 4x4 5.4L ... Just put this truck back on the road after being parked since 2008. While driving at 45 mph, transfer case engaged and is locked in 4wd lo. I did notice a pop about a minute after I started the truck. Drove approx. 5 miles. Transfer case engaged and chirped the back tires, slowed speed to about 5mph. Having it towed home. I'm thinking shift motor???
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I have a 97 f150 5.4 4x4 a/c compressor and clutch. It won't let my motor turn over because the ac compressor is locked up bc the bearings are shot is there any way to by fix this until i get a new compressor and clutch....
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I have a 02' f150 v6 67,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the trans shudders abit like the converter is still locked up. It then goes to stall in a few seconds. this does not happen all the time, fluid is clean. I understand there is a simple fix for this, or is this normal?
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So, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
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