Saturn :: Indicator Needle Lock Into Place And Entire Car Goes Dead
Dec 22, 2014
Saturn Ion 2003. Whenever I park the car and proceed to turn it off, all of the indicator needle lock into place and the entire car goes dead. Unable to use remote and when I attempt to place the key back into the cylinder to 'start' the vehicle, nothing occurs. Key is then stuck as it will not turn back past ACC. I have done tons of research and found a way to manually release the key but this doesn't resolve the lockdown. After a moment, the security light will display on the dashboard. I have tried just about everything including jumping the battery, only works until car is turned off, and making sure gear shift fully in 'park'. Have completed all recall notices from GM regarding ignition cylinder and the likes as well as a new alternator, twice. During the last jump, mechanic ran full diagnostics for battery, electrical, alternator and output.
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I installed seat covers which required removing my entire rear bench cushion. Now I can't get it to snap back into place. It's the 2 inserts beneath and in front of where each passenger's crotch would be that are causing the trouble.
To release said snaps, I had to pull up with a lot of force, so I figured to snap them back in, I could just slam my knee down right above but no dice -and I made full use of my 163 lbs and gravity multiple times.
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When the weather is rainy or just very humid, the speedometer needle in my 2000 Accent jumps all over the place. According to the service dept. at my local dealership it is most likely the speed sensor causing the problem.
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My car recently turned over 120,000 miles. I have owned her for 5 years. Currently, the engine temperature gauge needle is moving all over the place. It typically registers the correct temperature (I think), but sometimes it goes all the way over to the red, then peaks and falls back down to the midline.
Before this started happening, the needle would lie just below the midline when traveling on the highway and just above the midline when driving in town. Yesterday, it was lying between the 1/4 mark and the midline -- much lower than normal. Is this as simple as just replacing the temperature sensor?
My mechanic noticed a month ago that the transmission hoses are all swollen and in need of replacement. Is this related?One more thing, within the last week, the electrical system fails while driving, but just for a second. I can tell because the radio goes out. Once, it went completely dead, then came back on within 2 seconds. It made me think of the alternator, but it seems if that were the case it would go dead and not come back on, no?
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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I tried searching and couldn't find any info about this... the problem is that after my FMIC install my hood won't lock unless i force it down by sitting on it... I checked with tape and everything to see if my upper FMIC pipe was hitting the hood but its not, and nothing else is hitting the hood.
The hood mechanism is working since I went over it with a screwdriver to see how it locked and everything. The only thing that comes to mind is that since the same piece that holds the hood mechanism is the one that holds my IC that is sagged down? but everything seems to be tight and not moving.
Here is a pic for reference.........
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I just purchased a 99 1.8t and the drivers seat will not lock in place. It slides back and forth. I looked underneath and see the gearing but was wondering if this is a problem to where I need to remove the seat to fix or maybe some thing easier.
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion 2 with manual transmission. Occasionally the car acts like the battery is dead. It turns over once then goes dead. The radio and electric windows and door locks work fine but the dash is dead and the car will not start. After it sits for about fifteen minutes it starts just fine. It happens sometimes when it's cold. It happens sometimes when it's warm. It happens sometimes when it's wet. It happens sometimes when it's dry. It happens sometimes if I start and stop frequently. My mechanic has checked the battery two or three times. It checks fine. There's no corossion on the battery posts or cables. My mechanic thought it might be the clutch but pumping the clutch two or three times makes no difference. My mechanic and I are totally stumped. What have you got.
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Do a 2004 Saturn view front wheel drive transmission will fit in place of an all wheel drive...
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The throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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Just started my car after dropping off the boy at school this morning. Now The radio is dead and i have a red airbag indicator on. Thinking this must be related somehow. where to start looking to resolve this could it be a fuse, or does it sound expensive to fix.
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So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
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Can I disable the power lock on my Saturn SL1? Its locking and unlocking the front doors all by itself, draining the battery no doubt. Can I pull a fuse? If so, how find the right one?
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I have a 2002 Saturn Vue with a couple of miles on it (228,436 to be exact). I bought the car used in 2009 with 150K miles. Since I bought the vehicle, the electric door locks have stopped working, both with the key fop and with the door lock switches. This all started with the key fob working intermittently, and eventually degraded to the door lock switches not working. When I press the door lock switches on any of the doors you can hear the relay try to engage, however the doors do not lock or unlock. This is particularly interesting since now when I turn the ignition off, instead of unlocking the door, the system locks three of the doors and the hatch (it does nothing with the driver side door). I am not sure where to start looking for the root cause of this problem.
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I let a friend drive my car for the first time today. Before today I always had a key with a slash through it that blinked until I started the car. Now that has disappeared and the hybrid lock indicator light is on instead. My friend left the car on, by mistake, while she went into the store. She tried repeatedly to lock it, and of course it wouldn't. Did this change something in my indicator lights?
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The anti-lock alert indicator of my 2000 Buick Century goes off and on every day or so in warm weather; seemed that it stayed on much longer in cold weather. Braking is fine, no other alerts associated with braking. Is this a common problem? Might this be oxidation on terminal connectors of wheel sensors since it's so intermittent??
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Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
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For the past 2 days my car has started beeping when I open the door after I push the power button to turn it off. It flashed a red lock type symbol in the lower right side of the screen as well. What this is? I can't find out in the online dash indicators. The beep stops when I push the door lock down and shut the door.
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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