2003 Saturn Vue V. 61,000 miles. Drives ,steers and turns normally except when you do a very tight 360 circle. Tremendous grinding sound and shuddering coming from the rear of the vehicle. Return to driving a straight line and everything returns to normal. What is the issue and what would it cost to repair?
View 1 RepliesRecently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
View 7 RepliesThis car makes this grinding sound whenever you first start the car in the morning on a cold day and take a left turn. After 5 minutes it won't do it anymore. I can't tell if it's coming from the transmission but that's what one mechanic said. He said it was the transmission but he couldn't target where. His first diagnoses was the struts but that proved incorrect so I'm taking what he says with a grain of salt.
VIDEO WITH SOUND : [URL]......
This car has the notorious GM lawsuit CVT transmission..
I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
Our excursion usually sits unless we are towing or need to haul a group of people. The past three days my wife has been using it as a commuter. Yesterday she told me that two times at start-up she has heard a loud clunk/thump sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first she thought it was happening when she engaged the brake to put it in drive. Today she called me and told me the sound came just after start-up while the vehicle was warming up before the brake was applied. What this could be? I wish I would have observed it so I could give more details.
View 2 RepliesI'm experiencing a grinding sound that seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I can't tell if it's the tires wearing or it's something else, it's especially prevalent at certain speeds and on a curve..........
I can hear it when going slow and proportionality the grinding is slow... as speed up it's faster and at certain speeds it's quite loud...........it there something besides the rear tires that could be causing that, rear axle? something needs to be lubed?
At first i was sure it was the tires which are turanaza's and they have gotten louder (I think) as the mile have accumulated, but now I'm not sure since i can hear it at low speeds on turns.
I've got an 03 Camry (211K mi.) with front and rear disk brakes. I have a pulsing/grinding sound from the rear brakes. I think the pulse is from the run-out of the disk/rotor. Took it to a Toyota dealership last year and they pulled apart, cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assemblies on both sides. Brakes ran quiet for about 3 months and then the noise came back. When the climate is dry, it makes all kinds of noise. When it's humid (above 80%) or raining it's quiet. It still stops good and there is no pulling to one side or another, so I figure my calipers aren't leaking.
I bought the car used a little over 3 years ago and don't know when the last brake job was done. I was going to replace the front and rear disks and pads and inspect the calipers for cracked cups or seals. I was talking to an old school mechanic and he said something about opening the bleeder line(s) when I compressed the cups or I'd damage the ABS control. I looked at my manual and it said nothing about this. I'm not looking to replace the ABS controller because of a silly mistake on my part. Looking for info about cracking the bleeder when compressing a caliper??
I have a 2012 L100 Saturn with just over 189K miles (yes, it's been an awesome car). In October 2012 I both sets of breaks replaced plus rotors. About 2 months after the service, I started hearing a knocking and grinding sound coming from the bottom of the car, about 80% of the time when I apply the breaks. The car does not make the sound if idle or while accelerating. The knocking seems to be loud at times and less present other times. The grinding sounds like a large wire cable is being pulled right underneath the car.
I took it back to the break place and they replaced the Master Cylinder under the warranty. The sound went away for about a month and then came back with about the same frequency. Took it back to the same place and this time they replaced the Wheel cylinder. Sound again went away, but this time came back 2 days later. I'm puzzled because for some reason the sound seems to go away and come back when the car is serviced. It;s also not consistent, but it's there. Not sure what it could be related to if not the break job. I'm bracing myself for some really bad news as this car has been a life saver since I bought it.
We got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
View 18 RepliesDriving home yesterday I noticed a grinding sound from the driver side rear of the truck. Had a look at the drum brake today and found that the cable to the adjusting lever had snapped and pieces had jammed making the grinding noise. I need to replace the cable and probably have that drum surfaced, but the pads look good.
On the passenger side the hardware is all intact but the shoes look as if they have "spider" cracks everywhere, still lots of shoe left though. What might be causing the cracks on the shoes, and do these need to be replaced? How to do rear drum brakes? (1997 4x4)
So I took my 15 Passat sport into the dealer this morning because of an odd shuddering sound I was getting from the front suspension. Of course the car didn't make a single sound while we were there.
Then tonight when I went to back into a parking spot I heard what I first thought was the typical groaning of pads and rotors slowly moving except that I wasn't.
Check this out .....
This is simply me going from reverse to drive. No change in brake pressure and no movement at all. Shuddering type noise when hitting drive way or steep speed bump at an angle? I can feel it through the steering wheel.
Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
View 4 RepliesWhen I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
View 3 RepliesI have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
I heard a clicking sound coming from my motor. I change the old and start if up and i put it in r to back it up some then I put in D to get it off the curve then I lost all power and the car wont start. I have just 120560 miles on it....
View 3 RepliesI have 2001 saturn l200 about 150000 miles.. On cold days i hear a clicking sound coming from motor. When I push on gas pedal the clicking get little larder as soon the car warms up its stops clicking. I had the timing replace. Battery check. New oil. Oil pressure check....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 SFS 2.0T.
For the past week or so, I've been noticing a hissing sound coming from underneath the car near the front driver side area.
It almost sounds like air being let out of a tire. It only happens when the car is turned on, and the sound is there when the car is in park or in gear.
Not noticing any change when driving the car.
I have a 2001 saturn l200 about aweek ago i hard clicking sound coming from my motor. So I change the oil and I put it r and back it up some and then I put in it in d then I lost all power and how it wont start. Someone told me its the timing then I take a look at the chain wen you try to start it the chain jumps up and done.
View 2 RepliesWhen looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.
2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....