Saturn :: 2002 - Automatic Shifter / Car Still Rolls No Matter What Gear Engaged
May 19, 2014
2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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I've a 2002 Subaru Forester, manual transmission. The gear shifter is very loose. While in any gear, the shifter can move to anywhere. For example, when in second gear making a left turn, the gear shifter will flop to the right side near where third or fourth gear are. This doesn't change the gear of operation that the car is in. It just makes it a bit of a challenge to find where the gears are. Sometimes it is a challenge to find reverse.
We've had the shifter bushings replaced and that tightened things somewhat. But it is still very loose.
Mechanics have said that there is nothing wrong with the motion or the way the linkage operates the transmission. So the problem seems to be in the gear shifter.
Is this common on this car?Is it a sign of a bigger problem?What can be done about it?
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I have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
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It started with not being able to pull the shifter into gear...when started and no wipers, interior light, found a blown fuse, repaced it, all ok, blew fuse again, bigger fuse. It still works, now I have no high beams and cruise. 170,00kms....
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My car has 190,000 miles on it, automatic transmission. About 1.5 years ago I had issues where it would slide into and out of drive gear. I was told valve body had crack and it was replaced. Transmission worked well. Today I went to friend move and not long after leaving acted funny driving and then felt like something 'gave' in drive train and it only went up to second gear and then only first gear would work. Shifting up and down with lever wouldn't change anything, first gear works fine shifting in and out, just doesn't go up into second or drive, and reverse doesn't do anything. I was told if cv joint had given way, there would be clunking, no clunking. Told that maybe it was low fluid, but checked just now standing still and fluid is at or above the full line and looks very clean.
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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My wife has a 2002 Saturn Vue with the 2.2L 4cyl engine and a manual transmission. Yesterday she started it in the morning and backed out of the driveway. When she put it in first gear and tried to accelerate, the engine lost power and the car crept along around 5mph. The SES light came on as well. She took it to Autozone and they plugged it in but did not get any codes from it. I disconnected the battery today for about an hour, reconnected it(thinking it might be a computer issue?) and then test drove it and got the same result but this time without the SES light. The engine revs just fine out of gear or when in first gear and not trying to accelerate. It seems to only lose power when under load. I'm lost.
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So my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
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I have an 07 F150 xl 2wd 5speed. It has a vibration/shake at about 30-45 mph no matter if its in gear or neutral, or if its under throttle or not. It also gets a little worse when breaking coming down from about 45-30mph.
I was thinking at first it was the wheels out of balance since it was only at a certain mph range but the braking thing has me thinking rotors. The truck has about 51000 miles on it.
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Got a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.
No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.
Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.
Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.
What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.
I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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I have a standard transmission 2002 Saturn SL2. While driving in 5 o'clock traffic, I came to a stop light and out of habit glanced over the gage cluster; nothing out of the ordinary. About a minute goes by before the light turns green and as I'm shifting into second gear I notice that the shifter is sticking, almost as if I didn't have the clutch in. I look back down at the gauge cluster and the Engine/Coolant light is flashing and the temperature gauge is trying to go beyond the red. I immediately pull off the road and sit in a parking lot for about 20 minutes. I start it back up and keep an eye on the gauge, and it seems to be running a little hotter than normal, but nowhere near being in the red.
Since then, I've noticed that the temperature runs warmer than what it used to (normally at the first tick mark; it now runs between the first and second tick mark), and occasionally runs right at the second mark. At first, I was thinking that the thermostat may have temporarily been sticking/not opening, causing that initial overheating. But the engine clearly runs hotter, making me wonder if it's not the thermostat, but something else. I'm good with my oil. And am wondering if it could possibly be transmission fluid; but I don't know if the sticky shifter is significantly part of the main problem, or just a result of the overheating, or possibly just a coincidence.
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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OK, my daughter bought a clunker. Engine compression tested good, and transmission shifted fine so I proceeded to fix the car. Everything went fine until I got to the passenger side axle. I've always reused the inboard "tulip", and have never pulled one. Until today. The boot on the remanufactured shaft would not fit over the old tulip. I rented a slide hammer with a cv remover attachment and removed the old tulip. I then installed the new shaft, using a hammer on the end of the shaft to reseat the new shaft in the transmission. I didn't hit it hard. Now the car makes a horrible groaning sound when I put it in reverse. When I shift back to park, it sounds like a gear grinding. Also, the car rolls when its in park as if it was in neutral. I'm totally stumped as to what I did wrong. Did I destroy the transmission???
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I am new to the site and my 1999 F-350 4x4 7.3 manual. I parked on a hill and noticed the truck would intermittenly roll an inch at a time while in first gear and shut off. The parking brake does need adjusting and/or replacing. I also found a re-call for the p-brake cable that i have an appt. for. What i am not sure of is that the clutch is slipping while parked and needing replaced or what it might be.
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My light when off on my Automatic Shifter Selector Panel (View Attach Pic) on my 2013 Corolla S. I hate turning on my interior lights just to see if I'm in reverse or neutral.
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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