Saturn :: 2000 - Car Won't Start After Turn Off For About An Hour
Jun 30, 2014
I have a 2000 Saturn with about 140,000 miles on it. This morning after driving a short distance (maybe 2blocks) to the local gym my car wouldn't start when I came out about an hour later. When I put the key in and give it the first turn to the "run" (think that is what it's labeled) position the dash lights headlights, ac, radio, etc all turn on fine, however when I try to turn it to "start" nothing happens. No noise, no clicking, nothing.
This is the second time this has happened to me, first time was roughly a month ago pretty much the exact same situation drove a short distance this time the car was only off for maybe 10-15 minutes and wouldn't start. However, that time when I went back to my car about 30 minutes later it started just fine, that was not the case this time.
After that first time I brought my car into the local shop to see what the problem was, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. Can't recall everything he said he checked (battery, starter, alternator if I recall) and said everything was good and the conclusion he came to is that I must have left a light on or something. Which I didn't, as it was in the middle of the day and my dome light is always set to off anyways and the headlights weren't on and the doors were all properly closed and what not.
Also, I had the battery and spark plugs replaced about a year ago and aside from that everything in my car seems to be working fine...
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2000 2WD 4.6L ... I was trouble shooting why the truck will not start after it has run for awhile then sits for about an hour. I was checking the connections on the solenoid switch on the fire wall when my wrench slipped and touched both terminals on the solenoid and the engine starter kicked in. I tightened the connection then tried to start the truck with no luck. so I tried leaving the key in the "ON" position and jumped the two terminals and the truck started. Does this tell me I have a bad solenoid switch?
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 that died while driving. The battery was tested ok! When you turn the key all the lights come on. Turn it to start and all the lights go out except the SES and security lights. I have tried a method of resetting the security system by turning the key on then briefly to start. Letting it set and repete about 3 times or so. But it does nothing for the present issue.
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I have a 1993 Saturn SC1 with 200K miles and two problems. I can run the AC on a hot day for nearly an hour, then the air flow fades away even though I can hear the fan still running. If I turn it off for a while, I can then turn it on again, and it runs fine for a while but then fades again. On a cold, rainy day, even though the fan blows fine out the dashboard vents toward me and my passenger, there isn't enough air blowing out of the vents below the windshield, which fogs up so I can't see.
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I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
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I have a 2000 Saturn LW. It's generally been a good car. Approximately 6 months ago it would not start (would not even turn over). Had it towed, starter replaced and things seemed fine. Six weeks later, same thing. Replaced the starter again (supposedly battery was checked both times and fine). Works for another month and wouldn't start again. However, this time I couldn't get the key in. They replaced the electrical (ignition?) switch. Worked for another month or so and then wouldn't crank (as usual, would not turn over at all). Had it towed and the mechanic said the wires weren't connected well. Now 3 or 4 weeks later, almost happened again, but we did get it started on the third try and drove again to the mechanic. Works for him (of course). Says if it happens again, to move the gear handle as it might be a neutral safety switch (I don't think this is it as I'm pretty sure I tried that on a prior occasion).
It does seem to have electrical issues as the inside lights for certain periods of time will flicker. It also went through a spell where it would just cut off while going about 65 with the cruise and you hit a hill. The low power light would come on and a couple of others. It took getting a new computer? put in to get that to go away.
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when I turn key to start car there is a loud clicking noise somewhere behind the glove box, it quits after a while, what is the problem?
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My daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
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My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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I have a 2006 b6 it has a thump/vibration at 22 to 24 miles an hour. This may sound crazy but when you live in the city its awful! VW has replaced the transmission, both front axles and wheel bearings all around the car they have put the headphones on the car and cannot find the thump. The breaks have also been replaced rotors and pads.
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My GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE 4-spd auto and I've asked this question from several mechanics and they all say they same: leave it in drive.
My issue is that during my rush hour commute, I'm in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic and the maximum speed is 15mph with a lot of stops. During this time, my transmission is literally switching from 1st to 2nd and then downshifting again hundreds of times. Isn't it better to just keep it in 1st gear? The solenoids are constantly firing and gears are switching causing more wear/tear. It's the same as putting the gear in 1st when going down hill so why do mechanics not recommend this?
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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So I drove home for about 5 hours. It sat in my driveway for about 2 days, so when I tried to start it today (yesterday), it decided to stop working?? Thinking a bad battery from the factory...but hoping it's not the altenator, or something more?
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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This past week when I went to leave work my jeep would not start. It would turn over once, and then die....but if I kept my foot on the gas and kept the RPM's up it stayed running. So, I drove it home with one foot on the gas and one on the brake so it wouldn't stall out on the road. The next 2 days the same thing happened when I went to leave work. It starts fine the rest of the time, even first thing in the morning when it's cold..
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It's in a target parking lot. When I turn the key, the wind shield wipers come on, the radio and the ac comes on but it won't even try to turn over... Nothing.
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After driving to the store, I parked for like an hour. i came back outside to start it and it just clicks. i bought an starter from autozone, it didn't work. I took that one back and got one from advanced auto, it didn't work either. Again it justs make a hard click when I attempt to start.
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So here is a little background on my car have owned it for 1 1/2 years, never had any issues. just recently over the past month the car has trouble starting the first try after sitting for a hour or longer. I took it to the dealer for an oil change and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. All came back perfectly fine. I also had the spark plugs, and all coil packs replaced assuming this would resolve any issues.
So after doing all of that still have the problem, I have read numerous post that seem similar but have not seen an actual answer. My car is not throwing any check engine lights or anything. Trying to avoid taking it to the dealer to have them waste my time and money. By the way my car only has 38k miles on it second owner.
So far I see it could be
CTS
MAF
Crank Sensor
etc ...
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o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
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I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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