I received code P1404 on my 1999 Saturn shortly after the idle went unstable. The car ran great for a couple of weeks, then the idle went unstable again. The idle would go up and down for a couple of miles, then stabilized, but I got code P1404 again. The EGR I installed is new. What else would trigger P1404?
View 4 RepliesI would like to know if for the Accent 2003 there is a component that commonly fails and causes a P0108.
Vacuum seems to be ok. At least I can't find any leaks. Pressure at idle is normally at about 30kPa (4.3PSI). It ranges normally between 30 and 50kPa (7.2PSI). When the fault was set it indicated 125kPa (18PSI).
Sometimes the engine runs unstable at idle.
It seems to be an intermittent fault. If I clear the fault it can take about 2 days to reappear.
Otherwise I will have to go through checking the MAP sensor itself, wire harness, idle motor, is that about right?
I have another CEL : P1404... I know what this is, EGR Valve Stuck Closed. I just have one question about this. Is the valve the pintle? If not, what is the valve?
View 14 RepliesI got a code reading of P1404 on a 2000 Impala from the parts store, but they can't say for sure what it means. What this would be? The service vehicle soon light comes on.
View 3 Replies1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
View 3 RepliesI have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
I've got a 2001 Prius with a minor but annoying problem. It pops a P0440 code from time to time, always shortly after the gas tank is filled. Driveability/fuel economy are unaffected, and no other codes are ever triggered.
I checked for a cracked hose nipple on the "tank retainer", as posted by forum member kmc6566, but the unit on my car looked ok.
So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
My 1999 Saturn SL2 recently showed the "Service Engine Soon" light. I brought it to Autozone for a code scan. They told me it is P0133, and could be due to a bad oxygen sensor. The only two pieces of info I have is that:
a) my car recently passed emission test mandated by my county, and the Service Engine Soon light comes on about a week AFTER the check
b) my car usually runs fine with no problem, only that my wife notes that it starts to "shake" when I drives over 65MPH or turns on cruise control. I have noticed a slight drop in fuel economy - from 22.5-24.5MPG to around 21MPG
Not sure if it is worth the money for the repair. If it were indeed the O2 sensor problem, what might happen if I don't replace it?
1999 F350. It has the 7.3 diesel engine. His complaint is the truck will stall out on him shortly after filling up. It makes no difference if he is driving at full speed or stopped at a light the truck has stalled in both situations. He reports that he resulted to only filling up to half a tank for a while and that seemed to stop the problem. I was thinking a vent problem. Maybe the gas cap is bad causing a vacuum situation But I have read a few articles about tank delamination and now I'm not sure what to think.
View 1 RepliesI have a saturn sc1 2001 and the idle is pretty high (2000rpm) what could be the problem ? i already cleaned the IAC ...
View 2 RepliesMy car's rear end is quite unstable on bumps.If the left wheel goes over the bump the rear end sways left and if the left wheel goes over bump,rear end sways left. So far I've replaced left wheel bearing as it had a little play, both trailing arm bushings it had just a minor cut but had it replaced anyway.
Got the car aligned and it was found within spec. I only have doubt on knuckle bushing through which trailing arm is bolted.The catch is i would have to order whole knuckle to replace that bush.
The car is giving me P0016 and P0017 codes. I have read up on them, and it appears 17 could point to 16 being the culprit. Regular service, oil changes when the car says it is time. Vehicle has 90k miles. This is the 4 cyl engine. So, what am I most likely looking at? One or both sensors? Basically, is there a common problem associated with this vehicle and these codes that I can begin looking at?
View 2 Replies1998 saturn SL2 idle speed changes low, high, back to low. Some times the car dies, can happen any time a few times in traffic. Once the engines dies the idle stays low for 5 minutes, then the problem goes away for a while (a week). You never know when it will happen.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 1997 Saturn SL2 5 speed it runs great but when shifting gears the RPM stays high while changing the gears. The man who sold it to us said it's done this ever since he's had it (2yrs) and it also burns oil in between the oil changes. I've been told so much I'm torn what to try and do to fix's the RPM to not stay so high while changing the gears.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
My mom has a 2002 Saturn l300 v6. She's never had any problems with it except having to get a new computer about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago she got rear ended and ever since then it has had trouble starting. The few times it did start, it wouldn't idle and died. She replaced the fuel injector, but it kept doing it.
It's been at the mechanics ever since then, and everything I've looked up says it might be the fuel pump itself, but that raises the question of wouldn't our mechanic have found it by now? I've been told that it's either wiring or the pump, but when I bring it up I'm shouted down because nobody thinks that it could be those things.
I recently bought a camry 2013 and I have a few questions.
-Some mechanical click sounds in the rear when navigating on tight turns at speed of 25 - 30 mph (the trunk is empty and there is nothing in th back seat)
-Transmission jerks when accelerating/decelerating between 25 - 45 mph speeds. If I accelerate from a stop and get up to 30/35 mph and go easy on the gas, then I can feel the transmission jerk (and get into a different gear ?).
-Occassionally the car seems powerless. This happens when the AC is turned on and the car refuses to increase speed on a level road and engine rpm at about 2300
-Mostly on highways, I keep pressing on gas and still the car doesn't pick up on speed.
-Remote doesn't function in the mornings. Every single morning. Have to click unlock a couple of times before it can work. It happens Occassionally during the day at any given hour.
-Occasionally Radio will restart for no reason.
-Can feel engine jerking (turning off with a thud) when turning off ignition
-Assisted braking works only between speeds 35 to 20 post which the braking by the engine will suddenly release.
To describe better this is what exactly happens: The car is travelling at 50 mph. To stop when I am applying little pressure on the brake pedal, say 10 lbs, the car begins to slow down, once it is in the 20 to 35 mph range, the brakes will behave like 15 lbs of pressure is being applied. Once the car is at around 20 mph, then all of a sudden the pressure will disappear and the car will come to a hault whenever it feels like stopping.
OR, from a speed of 35 mph take your foot off the accelerator and wait for the car to come to halt on its own. You can then feel how unstable the speed of the car gets due to this assisted braking not working properly ?
-Car seems unstable (shaking) sometimes while driving at over 70mph
-Never been able to get the advertised 35 mpg on highways.
-Many a times when I flick the indicator stick up (to turn the right blinker) there is a distinctive metallic 'click' sound like a washer/bush out of place. Same with the steering if I keep turning it all the way to left then it stops with a metalic click.
-The pasting of the interior (white colored) is coming off near where the left foot (dummy) pedal is.
I just purchased a new 2014 accent . It's unstable on the highway. side to side movement. Do the accent steering can be set to sport mode?
View 27 RepliesFor the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
I have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.