Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Won't Switch On
Oct 6, 2014
i can't switch on my car (sonata 2013 ) when i finished go to super market i'm switch off as usual but in next day i try to switched on but no function i'm always check my car at Hyundai company in saudi arabia but i don't know what happened to my car today
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I have a 13 ES350
With the map on the screen and the Sat audio playing, switch from the map to the SAT screen to make selections.
Pressing "Media" on the dash always defaults to "BT Audio". Then I have to joystick it back to SAT.
Same would be true if I were in the map and wanted to return to the FM screen .
And of course I have tried MENU next to the joystick but that's a multi step process to get back to the desired audio screen.
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My wife recently purchase a 2013 Focus SE 5 door and a few times now the ignition key "sticks" in the switch and will not release. She has to turn it back on and off a couple times to get it to release.
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I have strange issue with my a/c fan, its running continues even will the a/c switch is off.
I cant stop it. So I have to remove the fuse to stop it. My ac panel is automatic.
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How to remove center panel in order to replace faulty blower switch?
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2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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Recently started having issues where the master window switch will put other door windows down, but will not put windows back up. Switches at the other doors still work fine both up and down. Started with just passenger rear window, but now all the other windows act the same way. 2010 Limited AWD.
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I bought my hyundai Santafe 2012 in may 2012 and till last month that's in 1st week of January 2013 started giving morning start problem thought may be due to cold winter. i called Hyundai technician and he told me due to fuel problem. he drained out whole fuel from tank and replace with winter grade fuel and it works but from next morning ...
1. I always heard once 'grik' sound when switch the key to On
2. I heard fuel passing sound type which never heard before.
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I need to know if my 06 GLS FWD has traction control. There's a TC light on the instrument panel, but no TC switch anywhere. Edmunds.com lists TC as a standard feature on the 06. I want to avoid trying to break loose the tires to find out. I've chirped the tires once during acceleration.
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How to access the reset switch. Both the quick guide and the owner's manual show clearly where it is ... but I can't find it. I've looked under the dash in that area, flashlight and all, zip, nothing.
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Thinking about adding some led lighting on a switch to my 2013 elantra gt. I've noticed that on the left of the drivers console there are 4 blank plates on the switch panel next to the eco and dimmer switches.
I took apart the dash to see if I could just pop one out and add a rocker switch of some sort only to realized that the switch panel is all one assembly with a circuit board inside. Added a switch to their 2013+ elantra?
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
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The ES350 2013 owner's manual says you need to reset the tire pressure switch when rotating/changing tires. The picture in the ES 2013 owners manual (P696) shows the reset switch near the lower left side of the steering wheel. Well you really have to look as it it under the dash next to the computer connector the tech's use to trouble the car. You really have to get down and look under the dash to find the switch.
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First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
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I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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I Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
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I have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
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