Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Switching To Neutral When Rolling To A Stop
Dec 17, 2014
I've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
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This is a 2013 Santa Fe Sport. This started as intermittent, but the windows for passenger side have stopped responding to the switches. I can hear the relay in each of the windows click when we hit the buttons but the motor doesn't engage. Sadly I couldn't reproduce before the 60k warranty went up and they won't cover it. They have said its the master control switch, but I don't believe that being that I can hear the individual relays engage on each of the windows when the buttons are pressed. They want $500 to do the master control switch.
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe, 2.2 Diesel AWD and have recently experienced this popping sound. The sound is normally noticed within seconds of switch off the engine and is loud enough to make people jump with surprise. When I originally complained I was told this was normal ... nonsense I said as having owned vehicles from various manufacturers(Nissan, SAAB, Renault, VW, Chrysler, Mazda, Lexus) over the last 25year I've never experienced anything like this. Car is back in for a 90K klm service and repeated my complaint - lets see what happens. To me this is coming from the catalytic converter and when I look at the box underneath the car it has numerous bump/dents on it yet has never been offroad.
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I'm curious, If I'm rolling in neutral at say 5mph and blip the throttle just a bit why do the revs shoot up on their own and then rev hang before dropping down again?
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I have a 2010 Accent GS, 5 speed. While sitting at a red light, or even rolling in neutral, the car will just die out. 90% of the time, the car will start right back up, no problem. A few times, though, it would not start right back up.. I put my flashers on, and just keep trying. It eventually starts up again, as people honk and get angry at me, but once a nice guy pulled over and offered to give me a jump and it started right up. I drove right to an autoparts store and had them test my battery, starter and alternator. All came back perfectly fine. There is no check engine light coming on when this happens. There is no code produced. A knowledgeable friend recommended i just change the battery since my car is 6yrs old, 104k miles. He said he had a similar experience and just changing out the battery solved everything. Well, i just did that and it stalled again. That obviously was not the problem.
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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We have a 14' Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo that has lost power several times upon coming to a stop. The vehicle will lose the "D" in the gear selector window in the cluster, a yellow triangle light will come on, and we lose all gear selector lights on the shifter in the center console. The vehicle will stop fine but upon throttle, power is extremely sluggish and then braking is limited as well. The car will limp in this mode until we stop the vehicle and reset with an ignition cycle. We might go a month in between occurrence. Looking for similar incidents and fixes if any. Vehicle off to dealer this week. Hopefully it has a hard code stored.
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VERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
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So I was driving along at about 50 MPH and came to a normal stop for a red light. Sitting at the light for approximately 10 seconds and feel the engine stumble or possibly misfire.
I immediately look for any idiot lights and see none, however above the mileage range instead of the pages that are normally shown I see:
LIMIT --- MPH
I drove for about a mile and everything seemed fine, I pulled off into a lot and rebooted the car and now everything is back to normal.
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So I recently leased a 2015 GS 350 AWD. The car is great. Love all the features. However, for some reason I feel that the transmission is a bit I rough when it switches gears. I feel the kick. I also noticed a hang up or delay when slowing down. I am coming off a infiniti q50 and the transmission on that car was nice and smooth. Maybe I'm just too sensitive.
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Is there any way to keep the radio screen up instead of it automatically switching to the nav screen after a few mins?
I've tried (i think) every option in the settings menu and i looked in the owners manual, but can't find anything.
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I have an 01 Passat (old body style) and I know that there is a function on the door that if you use the key to unlock the car you can roll down all the windows that way. The key lock on my door is broken though and has been since I go the car 2 years ago.
For some reason all the sudden now ever time I open my door all the windows roll down. I'm not sure how to stop it or turn off the system. Luckily it hasn't happened in the rain, yet, but I would like to fix it before that happens.
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Want to figure out if the 2015 has this feature where you hold the key fob down and the windows roll down. Can't seem to figure out if this feature exists.
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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My 4x4 only locks in when i lock it in and then go drive around, and i know its locked in when it gets hard to turn on the road. So i stop and play with it in 4x4 to see if it will go into 4 hi and it does but then after about 5-10 minutes it disengages again. I've checked the top portion of my vacuum lines, replaced my actuator on the front diff and I've made shore that my selonoids are working, and they are. I'm lost.
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I have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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I have noticed an odd sound when coming to a stop. It sounds like a metal ball or two rolling forward when I brake then roll back and hit something when i come to a complete stop. At first i thought it was just something rolling around in the center console but I haven't found anything. What is under the center console/drivers seat that may have something that could roll like that?
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