I am hearing a new beep sound (It's a quick double high pitched beep) when I start my car. What it could be? I do not see anything that indicates there is an issue with the car (i.e. no warning lights) but it double-beeps every time I start it now.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2016 SFS 2.0T.
For the past week or so, I've been noticing a hissing sound coming from underneath the car near the front driver side area.
It almost sounds like air being let out of a tire. It only happens when the car is turned on, and the sound is there when the car is in park or in gear.
Not noticing any change when driving the car.
I want to disable that beep beep sound when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. Does this can be disable?
On my previous Nissan Altima, you can toggle this feature by pressing the lock+unlock simultaneously. I tried that on the Corolla, it does not work.
Is there a way to get the vehicle to honk or beep when locking the car with the remote? I tried single click, double click, and triple click on the lock button and the lights flight, but no audible feedback. Is this really not an option? I checked my horn, it works.
View 24 RepliesMy car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.
Winter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
I have had my Santa Fe since middle of January and have some issues with rubbing noises and popping noises from the rear of the vehicle since then. The rubbing noise has been resolved, but the popping noise appears to be more of a challenge. I have had the vehicle looked at 4 times.
The way the mechanic at the dealership explained it to me is that between the outer body panel and the inner trim panel there is a piece of sheet metal that is flexing and popping. This is most noticeable at low rates of speed and more when turning left or right.
The past two times the dealer has reposition the pieces and the noise has went way for a few days, but always returns. So today I asked if maybe there was a wield missing or what we do if the problem continues after the latest fix.
One suggestion was to fill the gap between the sheet metal and the body panel. They mentioned foam or cardboard.
I'm using the 2011 Santa Fe.Got few question to ask.
1.When start to move there is a thump noise and sometimes it feel like going over something from the rear area.Happen only when start to move.
2.Using the keyless remote. Sometimes push the rear trunk button to lock and arm the car there but will be a beep sound continuously. Sometimes the rear trunk button are unable to open or arm the alarm system.
I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
My 2005 Santa Fe w/ 2.7L V6 started a strange symptom recently. Not always but often after its been turned off for awhile when I turn the key to the on position you can hear a fairly loud rushing noise while you inside the vehicle. With the heater/blower/radio and everything else turned off you can hear what sounds like fluid rushing or growling noise when you turn the key to the on position before starting the engine. It times off after a few seconds about the same interval as the fuel pump run time. It sounds just like fluid gushing and everyone inside the cabin can noticeably hear it.
Now I realize the the fuel tank and the fuel pump assembly are positioned under the vehicle in the same area as the back seat and I believe the access plate to the fuel pump assembly is directly under the drivers side backseat's bottom cushion. So it makes sense that any noise inside the fuel tank would be noticeable from inside the cabin. So far the vehicle has no drivability issues. But intermittently after the vehicle has been off for awhile the noise reappears at key on position. It sounds as if when the key is turned to the on position the fuel pump priming is causing turbulence and flushing fuel around in the tank. Yet it starts and drives normally. I've had this vehicle since it was brand new and I know of many issues that these Santa Fe's have but this new to me.
Had my '15 GS F Sport for a month, and thing fogs up really quick and easy. It can be 60 outside and in seconds my windows are fogged. I always have to drive with my defrost on, so today I got a rock chip and seconds later an 8" crack because of it.
View 14 RepliesHas happened several time recently. Turn the key and everything works but the car doesn't turn over, not a sound. After a couple tries it works fine. Starter or switch?
View 14 RepliesAfter 1-2 mins I turn off my car I hear a popping sound from under the car. Usually it goes after some sounds of cooling down the metal and ticking, and then a pop sound. Nothing during the driving. I did some research and found that it may be Catalytic Converter cooling down or the heat shield.
View 9 RepliesThe last couple months I have noticed what I call a "sucking" sound when driving. It is not constant and not noticeable at idle. It is more noticeable when first starting and driving for a while. seems to be getting worse and more constant. 2013 Sante Fe Sport 2.0 ...
View 3 RepliesRecently, my 2007 Prius will make a "BEEP" when I press the POWER button to shut down the vehicle. This doesn't happen all the time, but only 1 out of 25 times or so. Other than the beep, I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Everything seems to work as normal.
View 4 RepliesEvery time my car alarm goes off, the horn sounds like a clown car. The kids on my 10 year old baseball team even joke about it--its that bad. So, is it just me or are y'all embarrassed when the alarm goes off?
View 17 RepliesI have an '03 Screw which I've noticed now has an intermittent muted beep coming from somewhere in the interior of the vehicle. I've had the truck for 9 years, and this is the first time I've noticed it. It seems to come randomly but no more frequent than 2-3 minutes apart. As I am typically driving the vehicle, I cannot stop to locate the source. It reminds me of the low battery beep on my Blackberry, but like it's tucked away in the console or glove box (I checked - it's not the BB...).
I have a recurring SES light which is attributed to cylinders 1&4 misfire (discussed at length in a different thread), but I don't know what would cause this beep. I have read about the 5x5 "airbag light" beep, but this doesn't seem consistent with that. It does not seem like a repeating pattern - just a single beep, which sometimes varies slightly in length but is consistent in pitch and volume.
It's another thing in the growing list of gripes that are pushing me toward selling it. Just afraid of something big coming along unexpectedly... trying to manage the little things so they don't turn into that big one.
Our SFS LTD started this high pitch constant squeaking sound in the back of the hatch/cabin. We can't figure out where it's coming from. It doesn't seem to have any relation to the suspension (going over big bumps), and occurs on regular driving on flat terrain or regular street bumps/turns, city/highway...
We figure something is rubbing in the back or perhaps its due to a bulletin from the 2008 SFS (welding fix in the rear panel)?
Well I have been hearing a rattling sound coming from my engine when I accelerate around 55-70 for a second and then coast. Once I start coasting I hear some type of rattle noise coming from the engine. I just got back from the dealer and was told that the mid-section to my exhaust was bad and it needs to be replaced. The part # is 28600-4z300. I looked it up and it costs $1400 now, but it is on sale for $1000. I am hoping that this will fix the issue I am running into right now.
This problem adds to the list of crap I have been through with this car starting at 4000 miles. First a blown timing chain blows my engine, then my car goes into the shop 4 different times over a month and a half for a overheating/coolant issue. Had to get the engine replaced because apparently my "NEW" re-manufactured engine was leaking coolant into my engine. Now only 2 months since that has been put in I need a new exhaust..
My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.