Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Nav System Freezing On Startup
May 19, 2013
Experiencing the Nav system freezing on startup? I tap "Agree" to the legal and it doesn't respond. I literally had to turn the car off at an intersection - open the door and re-start to get it to work. (twice) The problem has since disappeared again but guaranteed it will return again...
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My Santa Fe is only 2 months old, and the Navigation System/CD/Radio froze up on me already. I just had a blue screen with Hyundai written on it. I couldn't turn it on or off, or push any buttons. Nothing worked. I called the Nav System hotline number on the front of the manual, and the guy told me to try reset. I told him I already did. He said he talked to another guy who had this problem, and he just kept pushing the reset, and finally it worked. Well I must have tried a dozen times, and finally it worked. The time it worked I pushed the button while it was off, then again just as it was starting up (always just came back to blue screen before) but this time it worked.
P.S. A pen did not work, I had to use a large paper clip, and you can actually hear a "ting" and the screen goes blank, then tries to start back up (and hopefully does).
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I have had the new Santa Fe for about a 45 days now. It is a 2.0T model with awd and no nav. So the basic radio.
Three times I have now had the issue with the radio. Right after the vehicle is started the radio shows it being in a diagnostic mode and loud static coming over the speakers.
Turn the vehicle off and back on and it is gone. I have asked my wife to take a picture if it happens again.
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This morning during cold start up I noticed my check engine light was on constantly, I was able to get a OBDII scanner from a friend and perform a scan after work and brings up P0116, google search says HYUNDAI - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance.
I did notice the radiator fan seemed to be running all the time. I had a look at the coolant level and it's near the full level line (green color if that matters). My questions is it safe to still drive it to the dealer (30 km away)? Would this be part of the powertrain warranty?
Since my wife is out of town i took her car as I did not want to cause any damage.
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport - 2.4 AWD - mileage is at 67,000 km.
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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I have had my 2013 Santa Fe Sport exactly one month. Before I drove it off the dealer's lot the Navigation system was dead and would not turn on. The salesman could not get it turned on either. So he drove the car into the service bay, shut off the engine, opened the door and had a service writer come to the car. They got in the car and the unit worked. The same thing happened again 30 days later. I pulled off the road, turned off the engine. Waited a few moments and restarted the engine. Still dead. I turned off the engine again, opened the door and waited 30 seconds. Got back in and started the car and it worked fine. I talked to the dealer about this and they have no knowledge of the issue.
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Finally pulled the trigger and traded our 2008 santa fe SE to 2.0T with leather pkg, haven't had time to do proper intro and didn't want this to be my first post... We have less than 1000 miles and engine is ticking quite badly, not always and doesn't go away when engine warms up. Will take it to dealer next week so that they can diagnose it more in detail. And no, it's not GDI system, noise is clearly coming from valve or vct system.
I know it's covered by warranty, but this stinks big time and frustrates like... Not a good start.
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Every so often my entire Navigation system becomes unusable. The screen freezes, and audio shuts off. The screen can be turned off, but the only way to get it back working again is to turn car off for about 2 minutes and then it goes back to normal.
I can't tell if it's from overheating or not?
The car is a 2010 w/ under 3,000 miles on it. I am debating waiting until my first service and have them just look at it then. (I have full extended warranty - I am on the road a lot so I always buy them).
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2013 Santa Fe 2.2 Turbo Diesel. I left the smart key in its pocket. The battery went flat. Re-charged the battery. Vehicle won't start. Dash does not light up. Warning message displayed is:- Check Steering Wheel locking System. The steering wheel is not locked.
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I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
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Wife was driving her Lexus 2010 when she got the following warnings and took a picture (see below). It was freezing outside so that may have had something to do with this.
Drove car in morning to appointment (5 miles) no problem. Let sit for 2 hours (freezing weather). Drove back and encountered the warning below: Check AWD System, check engine light and traction control light. Roads were fine with no snow/ice. I checked code on car and it called out Cylinder 5 misfire. She encountered loss of power going up hill.
I cleared code and checked/replace front bank of plugs (Cylinders 2, 4, 6) with Denso #3426 (FK20HR11) - too difficult to replace others. Spark plugs looked decent minus some oil/gas on threads of plugs similar to what I saw on another posting that went through process of changing plugs. Car drove fine after (next 20 miles).
Lexus 2010 - RX350 : Check AWD System
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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When you start the car the theft system light comes on and then the car stalls. This has been a continuous problem for about two years. I can't find any pattern to when it does and does not start. Sometimes it will start again the next try, sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes I have it towed to the pontiac dealer after a week of not starting. Recently I have had the cluster sent out twice to check for problems, a new lock cylinder, and the bmc replaced. (about $1,150 total) This was done by a certified pontiac garage and the problem is still not fixed so I dropped it off again last night. Any suggestions? Also is there a point where I should get reimbursed for having parts replaced that were not broken? I have to believe that if the problem is still happening then there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder or the bcm.
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Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
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Everytime I get gas, doesn't matter which location, my Hyundai does not want to start for the first several attempts. After it does, I keep it revved up for a few seconds and it is okay. What causes it?
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
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Owning a 2015 GS F-Sport. (black/black). I finally changed the startup screen away from the default mpeg showing the dealership info. However, I would like to load a custom image.
I thought from reading the manual that I could simply plug in my iPhone and the image library would populate but no-go.
Do I need to transfer images to an SD card in a camera and connect the camera through USB?
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I read that I can change the start up pics on my GS nav screen when starting the car. I like the default ones but would like to try something new. When I went to transfer my images in the directory, it asked if I really wanted to delete the existing ones. I was under the impression that what is default remains and that I can install new ones also. Does the default ones will be removed from car nav system?
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
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