I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
View 3 RepliesBrand new bumper came in without screws and nuts, it's ready for painting but i need the right hardware. (photos are simply for reference)
I want to keep the screws and nuts OEM meaning as close to as exact as possible without home depot or some lame arse hardware store, i'm talking about original VW if possible parts. Or at least the clips if anything at all. VW dealer hasn't supported much either, they just said go to Home Depot and buy some regular screws and u-nuts but I want everything as if it came straight off the dealership. I do not believe that all screws and nuts are created equal and where to get exact right hardware I need.
As far as I know the bottom needs 18 or so 5mm nuts and "u-nuts" that they screw into. And there's also the stock scoop, where to even start with screws on this one.
I was driving my truck and I heard a noise around the front drivers side wheel area, like a loose center cap. I got home and jacked up the wheel and grabbed it, it wiggled side to side and u and down. Would that be wheel bearing or tie rod end or something else
View 11 RepliesI just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
View 12 RepliesMy 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
Got my new truck last week and the steering is awful. Loose as a goose. Every bump that you hit jerks the steering wheel around. I changed the tires from the factory 80psi down to 60 for the front and 65 for the rear, didn't work much. On some big bumps it acts like I am losing control. It reminds me of the death wobble on my old 05 F250 which was 4wd. I thought that the 2wd independent suspension would be smoother.
It's got a sway bar up front can I add a steering stabilizer? If so who makes one? Everything else about the truck is great. The new 6.7 is quiet as a mouse and powerful. So far fuel economy is the same as my ecoboost. Haven't got to tow with it yet.
My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
View 14 RepliesHaving issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
View 13 RepliesWhen turning the steering wheel slowly while from a stop or slow speed there is a grinding sound coming from the front end. It isn't very loud but you can also feel it in the steering wheel.
Is there a common thing/problem with these? I know there isn't a pump. There isn't any kind of a vibration or wobble at highway speed.
I've noticed several times, already my heated steering wheel will automatically turn off at random times.
During the winter months i keep it on almost all the time, but noticed occasionally it just shuts off, and even gives the message in the dash that the heated steering wheel is off.
Last time it happened, i was driving for about 25 minutes, at a stop light. Whats odd is its been on for 45-60 minute drives with no issues.
I don't even think it could be diagnosed by the dealer since I don't know what the trigger is.
I recently bought a 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T about a 3 months ago, and have since noticed a couple issues that have come up with it. First was with a squeaking front suspension, but that was fixed by simply lubricating the sway bar bushings.
The second is that the steering wheel seems louder than normal when turning left/right at low speeds, mainly when parking, it sounds like two pieces of paper rubbing against each other right behind the steering wheel like a dry noise.
I test drove another Santa Fe before getting mine for about a week and didn't notice this issue. Is this a normal sound that eventually develops after having the Santa Fe for a while? I'm like at 3,600 miles.
2013 Santa Fe 2.2 Turbo Diesel. I left the smart key in its pocket. The battery went flat. Re-charged the battery. Vehicle won't start. Dash does not light up. Warning message displayed is:- Check Steering Wheel locking System. The steering wheel is not locked.
View 1 RepliesToday I noticed a strong burning rubber or plastic smell coming out of the right rear wheel well. All other wheel wells did not have this odour.
We had a bout of freezing temp's here recently and some snow, I'm wondering if the brake on that wheel may have seized slightly through the all wheel drives tourque vectoring or through parking brake use.
I'm going to drive it to the dealership tomorrow without making an appointment in hopes they will look at it right away as making an appointment this time of year is probably going to take forever.
Something I might be missing or can do?
On a recent trip to the service dept, I mentioned that the steering wheel makes a loud clicking noise anytime it's turned, the service guy said "it's normal and supposed to do that it's a spring"... Really? I find it hard to believe that Hyundai would make us listen to this annoying sound all the time.
View 20 RepliesI just bought a used hyundai santa fe sport 2.0t. i noticed it is fairly loud inside compared to my 2011 sonata. I don't know if im hearing tire noise or maybe a wheel bearing type noise. It's coming from the rear and gets louder as I go faster. I'll admit O am paranoid and probably making this sound worse than it is.
View 12 RepliesI'm going to work with my cousin change his oil pan on his 2002 passat 1.8T and I would like to know what torque the screws from the oil pan should be? Is the anything specific that I must know about doing this? Anything to make the job easier, faster and to not make mistakes.
View 3 RepliesI took my car to my usual trusty mechanic. Trusty asked where I had had the last rotation done. All the lug nuts were overtightened. The manual says to tighten to 96 pound-feet (that’s a measure of torque).All the nuts were tightened well past this. Many came loose at 200 foot-pounds. More at 300 foot-pounds (that’s as high as they wanted to go with their pneumatic torque wrench). There were still 5 nuts that didn’t budge. They brought out the manual torque wrench and muscled 4 of those loose. But one on the left rear wheel wouldn’t come loose.
So they made it a 3-wheel rotation, and left the left-rear wheel in place. I had a puncture driving over a piece of road junk last spring out of state and had to buy a new tire. Clearly the people at Roadside Tire had no clue (although why they messed with the other three wheels is a mystery. But although the left rear is the newest tire, i still don't want to have to trade the car in when the tire is worn! Nor do I want to trash out the rest of the assembly. What to do?