Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Front Position Lights Turning On When Brake Pedal Is Pushed
Sep 11, 2016
I noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
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My previous cars with adaptive cruise control didn't do this, but when the vehicle brakes itself, there is a very loud click. I'm assuming it's normal operation, but figured I'd ask here anyways.
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Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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Loving our new SF, but have noticed a problem periodically when starting out from a dead stop. When the accelerator is pushed, sometimes there is a hesitation in the engine. Almost feels like the gas has been restricted for a second, then it engages and goes. I've notified the dealer and plan to have them look into it at my first oil change, but it is happening more frequently and think it may be something I need to get looked at sooner than later.
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I traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
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My less than 7000 miles RX started making noise when I pushed the brake pedal. Evidently it sounded like the "LS brake squawk" according to service foreman. Not sure if the actuator is same in all RXs.
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2014 SFS 2.0T with only 8,000 kilometers...
I went out into the garage last night and noticed the Santa Fe brake lights were on. No other lights, just the right, left, and the upper brake lights. I tapped the brake pedal several times, I started the car and put it through a couple gear changes, turned the other lights on and off, but the brake lights remained on.
The brake lights would get a little brighter when the pedal was pushed. The brake lights would also flicker once in awhile. I'm thinking a short somewhere so I have disconnected the battery until I can call the dealer tomorrow.
The only thing I have added to this car is a Curt Hitch and wire plug (plug and play, no splicing). This was more than 6 months ago and there has been no problems.
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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Sounds like worn out brake pads but it is way before they are supposed to get worn out. Took it to dealer they said brakes still have a lot left on them, but it still squeaks like crazy every time I stop. Taking it to dealer again. I am thinking something is defective, pads or rotors, as I just heard another new Santa fe have the exact same squeaking as they were driving along. My car is at 30k km.
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I have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
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Notice a clunk noise when brake applied and first it seems when the car is turning right, but now I think as long as the surface is uneven it would do that as long as the brake is applied at the same time. It's a 2014 Sport Ltd.
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Getting a sour, moldy, or musty smell when the car starts and the air is pushed out the front vents. I know its getting hot and humid here in midwest but kind of started before and smell got gradually worst with humidity. It goes away in like 15 seconds but its a pain to have a new/used care and it smell like a 16 year boy when you start up. Though the AC filter might be moldy or has some funk on it.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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On my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
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Mine is a 2015 ES350. I drove it normally on last Friday. Today Monday morning, the car can't be started. Other symptoms are no any lights, stiff brake, shift locked in parking position, no clank with a jump starter.
The battery connection is tight; I also tried both keys and holding it right next to the start button. It seems like the car system is shut down.
I may call AAA to tow to dealer. However, the shift is in parking mode. Is there any way I can override the shift to N?
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A parking garage backed my 2012 Yukon XL into a cement wall. The trailer hitch is pushed back from its original position at least 3-4 inches. I took it to a dealership today and they said the frame is bent, but they could repair it.
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When backing out of same parking spot, I always hear a clunk, clunk, clunk, noise in the front while turning the steering while back in the fixed position. I have heard this noise in the past but did not think any thing of it.
It's hard reproduce this noise, it seems to only be happening when backing out and turning the steering wheel. Car only has a little over one thousand miles.
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My brand new 2015 Santa Fe Sport (limited) is making a "knocking" noise (emanating from the steering wheel / steering column?) when I turn right.
Instead of trying to describe what I'm talking about, I posted a video here: [URL] ....
* See 6s and 18s marks
Fault will go away on some turns but is generally consistent and easily duplicated. Took it to the dealer and they are stumped as well -- follow up appointment next week.
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When turning the steering wheel slowly while from a stop or slow speed there is a grinding sound coming from the front end. It isn't very loud but you can also feel it in the steering wheel.
Is there a common thing/problem with these? I know there isn't a pump. There isn't any kind of a vibration or wobble at highway speed.
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Team 4th Gen. Just a heads up. When I first bought my 600, the radar cruise was throwing an error due to a faulty brake light switch near the brake pedal. It was repaired but it appears the adjustment on that switch may not have been done.
I noticed cars rushing up on me as I was slowing down and turning many times, even causing a car to swerve hard to avoid hitting me.
I realized my brake pedal needed to be about 3/4 pressed to engage the brake lights. I also noticed I had to really mash the brake to disengage the cruise control. I then noticed when someone drove my car and came to a light. No brake lights even though they were def slowing down and not coasting.
So i had my oil changed today and had them investigate while it was there. There is an adjustment to that switch component and now the lights come on with hardly any pressure on the pedal and cruise disengages with very slight pressure on pedal as it should.
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I bought my SF 2013 Limited just less than 3 weeks ago. The car was fine but now all of sudden started to emit metallic grinding/friction noise when I press the gas pedal.
Dealer tech thought that it is bad drive shaft, but after changing it, it didn't solve the problem. Thought that rotor splash guards and maybe pads were to tight, that still didn't solve it.
To put this in perspective:
The sound comes only when I press the gas pedal and increases with the speed. It sound like cymbals and with speed it sound like a cricket. Noise comes from the bottom of the car and you can only hear it if your windows are down and car is passing sound reflection objects on the side, like other cars, concrete dividers, or parked vehicles.
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