Notice a clunk noise when brake applied and first it seems when the car is turning right, but now I think as long as the surface is uneven it would do that as long as the brake is applied at the same time. It's a 2014 Sport Ltd.
View 4 RepliesI have started hearing a noise with my brakes. First thing in the morning when I back up and apply the brakes, I get a clunk or pop noise from the left front wheel. It will pop again once I move forward and hit the brakes. It only does the noise one time when I first apply the brakes in either direction. Once the brakes have been used out on the road and are warm, there is no noise when changing directions. I've had this noise in another car I used to have and it was caused by the aftermarket brake pads not being exactly large enough and there was slight pad shifting in the caliper. Being this is a new car and has the OEM pads, I would hope there would be no pad shifting or movement in the calipers.
View 17 RepliesI got a few clunk noise from front left tire area. I think it happens when I turn my steering wheel to left almost max.
And then, turning back to straight(to right). then, "Clunk"!
Today I got the clunk when I made U-turn on a street. A month ago, I heard it when I parked with fully turned front tires.
I have a 2012 Rav4 and I have been hearing a creaking/groaning sound coming from the front left brake when I apply it lightly. It gets worse as it heats up. It sounds exactly like the brake in this youtube video.
View 2 RepliesSounds like worn out brake pads but it is way before they are supposed to get worn out. Took it to dealer they said brakes still have a lot left on them, but it still squeaks like crazy every time I stop. Taking it to dealer again. I am thinking something is defective, pads or rotors, as I just heard another new Santa fe have the exact same squeaking as they were driving along. My car is at 30k km.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
View 7 RepliesI have a click/clunk in my front brakes, passenger side. Happens mostly braking and turning right into my driveway. It was recently attributed to a strut bearing, but this was not the case, and their replacement didn't fix the problem.
Dealer has said it's a common noise and occurs after service. The only way to stop the noise is to stop lubing the calipers so they drag.
I say they are full of crap. This has now been going on at least 30k km. I have documented it on every oil change that I can remember (always at the dealer). Any way I should be handling it?
I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
I'm taking possession of my new GTI 2013 4dr Dsg next Wednesday.
I actually own a 06 Audi A3 3.2 dropped with ST Coilovers that impressed me at the beginning in term of comfort BUT I don't want another experience with those coilovers (clunking noise, reverse brake).
I am hesitating with many combination.
My needs: get rid of the horrible wheel gap AND maintain the best daily ride comfort 'cause I live in Quebec and I can not count anymore the potholes and patches on the roads....
The setups I am hesitating with:
-I LOVE how the H&R Supersports sit, that IS the drop level I want. And If I go with them, I would also buy some adjustable koni yellow. *I worry about the comfort*
-DG springs *worry to almost not see the difference between DG and stock look*
-VWR springs *worry about getting the reverse rake I am afraid of*
with DG or VWR springs I would conserve the stock shocks, because I guess those springs are not so low to need shorter shocks.
I was pulling out of the driveway and heard really loud snapping noise. Jumped out of the car expecting to see damage, but everything looked fine. I didn't drive over anything or hit anything.
Now, I notice that when my left front wheel goes over bumps and potholes there's this metallic rattle. Took it my mechanic right after and we both looked the front suspension over. Everything looks good. It does drive fine.
Got a 2007 Santa Fe CM (Europe) with 160k km. I'm currently trying to figure out how to fix the clunk noise in the front of the vehicle. I am aware about the TSB 12-DS-002 where they recommend changing the drive shaft washer, but since that's a lot of work I want to make sure that this is really the problem.
The noise is not always there. Sometimes you can hear the clunk when decelerating, but not always. You can also sometimes hear a clunk when going from D to R. It sounds like a driveshaft has some play, and a change in the direction of the force causes it to slam into the other side. However, you can't feel it, so there is definitely not a lot of force behind it. You can only hear it.
However, I asked some guys to shift between R and D while I'm outside so that I can figure out where the sound comes from. However, murphy's law, it didn't made any clunk. And after shifting between R and D for like 20 times I felt bad for my transmission and stopped it.
The clunk is not always there, just sometimes. It doesn't really make sense to me, if its really play in a driveshaft it should be always there? Also the clunk started at about 155k km, now I got 160k.
Is there any further diagnostics I could do?
I have a 2013 Santa Fe with a 2.0T. A couple of days ago, I heard a squealing noise when I make a sharp turn to the left, like maybe a power steering belt would do. This has continued and I have also noticed that the AC fan almost completely dies at the same time. Car has 6,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesI'm getting a "thunk" or "clunk" noise when driving over bumps/patched/uneven roads in my Elantra GT.
It's a hollow noise, I don't hear it unless I hit a bump/patch in the road. Doesn't have to be a large bump.
25k miles, Automatic Transmission. it almost seems to be one side (right) more than the other.
Is this a common issue for this model/year? What was the cause?
I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
View 11 RepliesI noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
View 2 RepliesWell just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
View 5 Replies2005 3.5L 105K. I had the timing belt replaced at 70K. Ever since then I get a winning noise in the right front when turning left and accelerating. Does not happen turning right. I took it into another dealer and he said it could be in the power steering. But why turning left and not right? He didn't think it was the CV joint.
I changed the PS reservoir in case it was a clogged screen. That did not work. Now I am getting a rattle sound on the right with the car in D or R when the car is first started, moving slow or not moving. The sound goes away in N. I don't know if these sounds are related or not. What could be causing these sounds?
My 2015 Gs 350 F sport started making grinding noise from the front passanger side wheel. The noise comes from driving and not braking so im assuming its not the brake pads and its not squeaking noises as a worn out brake will sound.
View 14 RepliesRecently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
View 13 RepliesJust got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
Purchased new SF in April 2014. The noise insulator in the left hand front fender (Fits inside the fender behind the door hinges. Appears to be foam covered in plastic.) is missing. Can be seen If you open your front doors. Fills the cavity from top to bottom.
Dealer has ordered part but is telling me that the front bumper cover and fender will need to be removed to fit.
I would have thought that they would only need to remove the wheel and fender liner to fit. Ten minute job!
Not keen at all on them pulling the fender off.
RHS insulator seems to be a loose fit in the fender cavity and can easily be moved around.